One of the most popular tourist attractions in Fairbanks, Alaska is the Discovery Sternwheeler boat, docked on the Chena River not far from downtown. It is owned by the Binkley family, who have been in the riverboat business since the days of the Klondike gold rush. It has been a tourist attraction since 1950 and has been continuously captained by members of the Binkley family.

Take a ride on the Discovery Sternwheeler

Discovery now makes at least two trips a day, sometimes three, down the Chena to the Tanana River, past shore demonstrations which include Susan Butcher’s famed Iditarod dog kennels, landing and take off by a bush pilot and a fish cutting and smoking demonstration by natives in the area. It is a three and a half hour cruise, ending in an hour walking tour of a mock Athabasca village.

The village has demonstrations of native art, sewing of furs, and a hands-on lecture with the sled dogs. Native housing has been built on the site and are replicas of the original dwellings and show both winter and summer means of living, styles of clothing and cooking and storage of foods. The fish cutting and preservation is still done the way it was a hundred or more years ago. The salmon that is caught in traps on the Tanana River are used to feed both people and the dogs. The dogs are well taken care of because they are vital to winter travel in Alaska.

The houses that are on the banks of the Chena River illustrate all kinds of architecture, both old and new. Many are expensive homes built by residents of Fairbanks and are situated along side the older homes of the old-timers who have been there forever. All are fortified for the winter months and have boats docked at wharves, and many have small float planes tied up along side the boats. A large percentage of Alaskans own airplanes because they are the only way to get into the outlying areas of the state.

The sternwheeler now mainly carries tourists brought in by the bus load and there is the usual gift shop on board and at the dock, but the trip is not boring. It is a slice of Alaska history that still lives on.

Come back tomorrow for a visit to Portland, Oregon brewpubs.

Check out our “Shop”  with some great views you can keep! 

Stepping onto the dome car of the Alaska Railroad you do not realize that this train is not just a tourist train.

Domed car of the Alaskan Railroad

We were on a land tour, after having completed our cruise part of our vacation, and thought this was just another part of this fantastic trip we were having. I have been fortunate enough to ride the Alaskan Railroad twice in my life, both as a part of a tour. The dome car is filled with passengers just like me, armed with cameras and wearing newly purchased Alaska T-shirts.

Avalanches and heavy snows have stalled the railroad many times and crews are sent out as fast as they can so the railroad will keep running. A rockslide once closed the highway to Whittier and the train took over the task of transporting passengers back and forth to Anchorage, with stops at small towns and villages along the way. The railroad is based in Anchorage with a large rail yard and switching station.

Train pulling into Denali Station

The railroad has signed an agreement with the National Park Services to make stops at National Parks such as Chugach and Denali. It regularly stops at Talkeetna and Wasilla and other towns on the rail route.

Our journey on the railroad included excellent service with drinks and snacks, and a dining car with specialties such as reindeer chili and reindeer stew. Service is excellent as is the cuisine. There are observation platforms where passengers can view the scenery as it passes and take photos to their hearts content. You can see Mt. McKinley from several viewpoints and in places the railroad bed follows the Susiitna River. The tour guides are always well informed and can answer questions readily. It was a trip to be remembered and to marvel about.

Train following Susitina River

History of the Railroad

The Alaskan Railroad was completed in 1923; President Harding tapping in a gold spike. The railroad has enabled communities to settle and flourish along the railroad. Supplies are delivered to the Fairbanks gold fields, plus pipe and supplies for the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. The railroad helped to build the Alaskan Highway and it supported the war effort during WWII. Eight million tons of freight are hauled over the rails every year, along with 500,000 passengers and provides access for Alaskans and visitors from the tidewater in Seward and Whittier to the interior of Alaska.

Tomorrow… Visit another Oregon brewpub – this time in Corvallis, home of the Oregon State University Beavers – “Go Beavs!”

Eighty-four miles north of Fairbanks, Alaska begins the primitive road known as The Dalton Highway, or the Haul Road. It was first called the Haul Road because almost everything supporting the oilfields of the North Slope of Alaska was transported across this road on tractor-trailer rigs. It ends 414 miles later in Deadhorse, the industrial camp at Prudhoe Bay. A primitive road from its beginning to its end, there are very few stretches of pavement. It is the farthest north road and involves risks and challenges, but at the same time gives the opportunity to traverse a remote, unpopulated part of Alaska to the very top of the continent.

Highway through Atigun Pass

Before you decide to heed the call to adventure down the Dalton, there are some things you need to know. There is no public access to the Artic Ocean from Deadhorse. You must be on an authorized tour. The Arctic Caribou Inn offers authorized tours (call toll free 866-659-2368).

Second, there are no medical facilities between Fairbanks and Deadhorse, a distance of 498 miles.

Third, food, gas, and vehicle repair service are extremely limited. There are no public services at Department of Transportation maintenance stations or Alyeska Pipeline Service pump stations. There are gas stations at Yukon Crossing, Coldfoot and Deadhorse. There are no grocery stores along the highway. Snack food and cafes are located at several locations, such as Yukon Crossing and Coldfoot. There are no banks. ATM machines are available in Deadhorse. Most services accept major credit cards and traveler’s checks. There is no cell phone coverage from milepost 28 until just outside of Deadhorse, about 456 highway miles.

Short stretch of the famous Alaskan Pipeline

The road is narrow, has soft shoulders, high embankments and steep hills. Big trucks always have the right of way. Slow down when passing other vehicles to avoid damaging them with flying rocks. Always drive with your lights on so others can see you and always keep them clean, along with tail lights, so they are visible. If you spot wild life, pull over to a safe location before stopping. 

We were on an authorized tour and our tour guide knew the best places to stop to view wildlife. We saw herds of migrating caribou, plus musk ox and arctic fox, and plenty of Dall sheep. The North Slope is a wide-open landscape and you can see animals from great distances. Always have your binoculars handy. As you travel along, take the time to scan open areas along mountain slopes, riverbanks, lakes and meadows as this is where you are likely to see the abundant wildlife that live on the tundra of the North Slope of Alaska. The Dalton follows the pipeline for much of the way south and in places it zig-zags through the area as a means to avoid the frozen areas of the tundra and to keep the oil flowing. In some places the pipeline is buried underground and other places it runs above the ground. This is due to the condition of the tundra and whether the area is of permafrost or not. Where there is permafrost, the pipeline runs above the ground so that the hot oil will not melt it.

Places of interest along the Dalton are the Yukon River Crossing (MP 56) and its unique wooden bridge; Finger Mountain Wayside (MP 98) with its formation sticking into the air, pointing the way to Fairbanks for the bush pilots to see; and the Sukakpak Mountain (MP 203), a massive wall rising 4,459 feet that glows in the afternoon sun.

A trip down the Dalton Highway can be made in 13-14 hours but to really enjoy the sights and take in the wildlife, it is recommended that the trip take more than one day. There is so much to see and do, and you should do your homework as to the best places to stop, camp or stay. The Bureau of Land Management can provide you with a visitor guide to the Dalton Highway.

The Dalton Highway has recently been featured on “Ice Road Truckers” on the History Channel.

Visit their web site at www.blm.gov/ak/dalton.

Tomorrow… Come back for a visit to microbreweries in Oregon –beer!

The tundra of Alaska is a stark but beautiful landscape. As the coldest of all the biomes, tree growth is hindered by low temperatures and a short growing season. Tundra also contains permafrost, which means that the soil is permanently frozen and can be from 10-35 inches deep, making it impossible for trees to grow.

Because the soil is frozen, moisture cannot soak into the ground, thus forming the lakes and pools that are so prevalent across the Alaskan North Slope. The permafrost lies only inches beneath the surface of the Coastal Plain, thus creating a bizarre landscape of wetlands and ice-wedge polygons.

Caribou watering at the Sagavanirktok River

The Dalton Highway runs north and south across the tundra and into the mountain ranges and gives marvelous views of scenery like no other in the world. There are Wayside Stations and Overlooks along the highway and plenty of opportunity to stop to take photos, watch wildlife, or just walk around to soak up the cool air.

The tundra is home to the world’s largest herd of caribou and they have seasonal migration. The herds always have the right-of-way as they cross the roads. You can also spot wolves, wolverine, grizzly bear, red fox, and musk ox. Hunting over the open terrain along the highway and river are many birds of prey. While crossing the Brooks Range you can spot moose and wolves, and make sure you scan the skies for golden eagles. The Arctic National Wildlife Refuse borders the BLM Utility Corridor to the east and extends across the Brooks Range and the North Slope to Canada. It offers extraordinary wilderness, recreation and wildlife values.

This far north in Alaska, the sun never sets between May 10 and August 2, and never rises between November 18 and January 23.

Arctic Circle sign - yes, it is that cold!

The Arctic Circle crosses the Dalton Highway at MP 115. It is a must stop for photos and to gather in front of the sign that marks the spot. At this spot the sun stays above the horizon for one full day on summer solstice (June 21) and below the horizon for one full day on winter solstice (December 21).

Brooks Range, eerily beautiful

Gobblers Knob at MP 132 offers an excellent view of the Brooks Range to the north. The farthest north spruce, located at MP 235, was approximately 273 years old when it was killed by a vandal in 2004. You leave the tundra and cross the Continental Divide at Atigun Pass (elev. 4,739).

The tundra is a fascinating place to visit and full of wildlife and interesting scenes. State statute prohibits off-road vehicles within 5 miles either side of the highway from the Yukon River to the Arctic Ocean to protect the natural resources.