This time, years later, I took off from southern Maine.  We were assured that we would get to see some whales during feeding time.  The tour guides kept their word.

Out in the ocean

We headed out to an open ocean area where just a little activity was noticeable.  Suddenly, whales started surfacing, along with an entourage of seabirds.  The birds were scavengers – a dead giveaway that they were after the fish that the whales missed.

Whales surface

Talk about feeding frenzy!  Several whales were visible surfacing, diving and resurfacing again.  The birds were everywhere, helping themselves as they snapped up fish.

Feeding frenzy for whales and scavengers

We could see details on the whales’ tails and evidence that these were veterans, elders who had been around a while.The view and activity was so exciting that several people forgot they were out in the sun.  Their souvenir was a massive sunburn!  (Note: Sunblock and hats are a very good idea out on the water.  The reflection can really make you burn!)

Another whale tail

Although it seemed just a few minutes, the feeding subsided and the tour guides announced, much to our disappointment, that we were heading back.

But, to quote a Star Trek character, “Thar be whales!”

Getting ready to leave - a whale tail

We loved our visit with our distant (very distant) cousins, the whales.

Since we think everyone who can go would find this experience amazing, we offer the following companies and locations as places where whale watches are offered.  We do not necessarily endorse these companies, as we have not used all of them.

Some suggestions

You will definitely want to know whether everyone in your party is good at sea.  If not or you are not sure, motion seasickness pills before you leave are a must. (Generic or the brand name Dramamine.)  Why ruin a good experience by not being prepared.

As I mentioned earlier, hats and sunblock are also a great idea.  Plus, lots of camera space  and batteries (for digital cameras) and film for those with SLR or one-use cameras.  Take water and snacks/food.  Typically, the tour boats have you as a captive audience.  The prices on snacks and drinks reflect that.

Whale watching companies

The following article offers some valid suggestions on criteria for finding a tour company for the best whale watching experience.

http://marinelife.about.com/od/whaleanddolphinwatching/tp/FindaWhaleWatch.htm

We definitely agree that you should research and book ahead of time to avoid disappointment.  What species you want to see will definitely change depending on what location you choose.

(Rates shown were the most recent published.)

East Coast US:

Humpback whales are prominent.

The originators on the East Coast:

Massachusetts

Whale Watch Dolphin Fleet of Provincetown (which even has a coupon and offers a naturalist to provide solid information,)

http://www.whalewatch.com/dolphinfleet/

Rates for adults, $39, children 12 and under, $31, under 5 years – free.  This is a 3-4 hour tour.

In Maine:

Bar Harbor Whale Watch Company

http://www.barharborwhales.com/

Rates for adults are $56 for a 3 ½ hour whale watch, $28 for ages 6-14 and $8 for children under 6.

West Coast:

Different species are visible during different months – check out which months are the best for your sightings.  Gray whales are very prominent.

California:

Aquarium of the Pacific

Along with an admission to the aquarium, you can purchase a 2-2 ½ hour tour for $42.95 for adults, $28.95 for children ages 3-11 and $39.95 for seniors 62+.

http://www.aquariumofpacific.org/education/programdetails/gray_whale_watch/

Oregon:

Marine Discovery Tours –

They offer a 2-hour “Marine Discovery Tour” that varies where they go depending on the time of year.  You might be inland if the sea is rough.  They do have naturalists on board.  Fee for Adults – $35, children 4-13 – $17, under 3 – free, seniors – $33.

http://www.marinediscovery.com/SLC.html

Vancouver

Tours in Canada tend to offer longer charter tours, as opposed to mass group tours, thus they are pricier.  The one we located that is three hours is: Springtide Charters.  The price was $95 (Canadian) for adults, $75 (Canadian) for 13-18, children 3-12, $65 (Canadian).

http://www.springtidecharters.com/rates.htmhours

As we said – official disclaimer – we do not endorse any of the above companies.  Please check out all of the details for whatever companies you decide to consider.

We found whale watching an enthralling experience.  Someday, we hope you have the opportunity to see the whales, too!

Next week: We visit Mexico.

One of the most popular tourist attractions in Fairbanks, Alaska is the Discovery Sternwheeler boat, docked on the Chena River not far from downtown. It is owned by the Binkley family, who have been in the riverboat business since the days of the Klondike gold rush. It has been a tourist attraction since 1950 and has been continuously captained by members of the Binkley family.

Take a ride on the Discovery Sternwheeler

Discovery now makes at least two trips a day, sometimes three, down the Chena to the Tanana River, past shore demonstrations which include Susan Butcher’s famed Iditarod dog kennels, landing and take off by a bush pilot and a fish cutting and smoking demonstration by natives in the area. It is a three and a half hour cruise, ending in an hour walking tour of a mock Athabasca village.

The village has demonstrations of native art, sewing of furs, and a hands-on lecture with the sled dogs. Native housing has been built on the site and are replicas of the original dwellings and show both winter and summer means of living, styles of clothing and cooking and storage of foods. The fish cutting and preservation is still done the way it was a hundred or more years ago. The salmon that is caught in traps on the Tanana River are used to feed both people and the dogs. The dogs are well taken care of because they are vital to winter travel in Alaska.

The houses that are on the banks of the Chena River illustrate all kinds of architecture, both old and new. Many are expensive homes built by residents of Fairbanks and are situated along side the older homes of the old-timers who have been there forever. All are fortified for the winter months and have boats docked at wharves, and many have small float planes tied up along side the boats. A large percentage of Alaskans own airplanes because they are the only way to get into the outlying areas of the state.

The sternwheeler now mainly carries tourists brought in by the bus load and there is the usual gift shop on board and at the dock, but the trip is not boring. It is a slice of Alaska history that still lives on.

Come back tomorrow for a visit to Portland, Oregon brewpubs.

Check out our “Shop”  with some great views you can keep! 

Glacier Bay is part of the National Park Service and vessel permits are required before entering Glacier Bay from June 1 to August 31. You can request a permit by contacting the National Park Service at Bartlett Cove. Comrprised of 3.3 million acres of mountains, glaciers, forests, and waterways, Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve are a highlight of the Inside Passage and part of a 25-million-acre World Heritage Site – one of the world’s largest protected natural areas – designated by UNESCO.

Glacier in Glacier Bay

We entered Glacier Bay after picking up a pilot and a ranger from the National Park headquarters at Bartlett Cove. We ventured forth into the bay and headed towards the tidewater glaciers at the north end of the bay. A journey through Glacier Bay is more than a journey through geography; it is a journey through time. We traveled roughly sixty-five miles from the forested lower bay to the rocky, icy upper bay, where glaciers meet the waterline and are as tall as twenty-story buildings. It is hard to realize that the glaciers are that high unless there is a watercraft to put it into perspective.

The captain of the ship uses the gigantic thrusters on the ship to swing the ship 360 degrees so everyone may view each and every glacier from every angle. The Margerie Glacier at the end of Tarr Inlet is spectacular, as is the John Hopkins Glacier.

If we are lucky, we will watch the calving, the breaking off of ice chunks from the glaciers. They are constantly on the move and the constant cracking of the ice sounds like gunshots from a distance. The glaciers are many colors. Blue is the only color retained within the ice and not reflected away, giving the ice a blue appearance. “Dirty ice” is also seen. As the glaciers move along, dirt and rocks are embedded within the ice and are carried to the water.

On to College Fjord

Glacier in College Fjord

After we left Glacier Bay, we sailed northward towards the port of Whittier, with a side trip to College Fjord. College Fjord is the hidden jewel of Prince William Sound. It is located in a narrow channel outlined by mountains and punctuated by ice-blue glaciers. The Harriman Expedition of 1899 named these glaciers after Ivy League colleges. Again we were treated to 360-degree viewing by the captain. We counted seven glaciers at one point, all flowing gracefully and beautifully into the water. The glaciers were a sparkling end to our voyage through the Inside Passage.

Tomorrow – Join us in finding out why anyone would want to go to Prudhoe Bay.

The Alaskan gold rush lured thousands to Skagway, which became known as the gateway to the goldfields. By 1898, it was Alaska’s largest town with a population of about 20,000, not counting the 10,000 people living in the tent city of nearby Dyea. Today, Skagway has less than 1,000 residents but the population more than doubles on the days when the cruise ships pull into the dock.

Skagway boasted the shortest route to the Klondike, but it was far from being the easiest. Over a hundred years ago, the White Pass route through the coast mountains and the shorter, but steeper, Chilkoot Trail, were used by thousands of stampeders. The treacherous Chilkoot Trail, combined with the area’s cruel elements, left scores dead. The hotels, saloons, dance halls and gambling houses prospered, but as the gold supply dwindled, so did the population of the town, as the miners left to go to newly-discovered gold fields.

Skagway, Former Gold Boom Town Photo by George Bradshaw

Today, Skagway retains the look and flavor of the 1898 gold rush era with its false fronts and brightly painted buildings. Although the buildings are still there, restored, the occupancy is quite different. The saloons and brothels now house shops and businesses that cater to the tourist trade that keeps Skagway alive and well.

One of the most prominent men to take up residence in Skagway was Soapy Smith. Soapy was a criminal and con man who left successful careers in the lower states to try his luck in Alaska. He began to control the town, including the town marshal and deputies and schemed to take everyone’s money for himself. He was eventually killed in a gunfight when the townsfolk got fed up with his dishonest ways. His final disgrace was to be buried just outside the boundaries of the city cemetery, set apart from the “decent” residents of the town.

Skagway is located at the northern tip of the Inside Passage and got its name from the Tlingit name “Skagua” which means “the place where the north wind blows.” It became the first incorporated city in Alaska in 1900 and was the second largest settlement in Alaska at the time. Skagway is now home to the headquarters of the Gold Rush National Historical Park. It is also the starting point of the famed White Pass and Yukon Railway.

Tomorrow:  Take a ride on the White Pass and Yukon Railroad

A whale watch is a rare and exciting experience that provides views of our fellow mammal, the whale. In Alaska, The whale watch tour we took began in Auke Bay at the marina and traveled through the Saginaw Channel to the Lynn Canal, the main summer feeding waters of the humpback whale. You are always assured of seeing at least one whale, and seeing just one is a rarity.

At times you can spot a group of whales “bubble-netting” a school of fish, bunching the fish together to ensure easy pickings for the whale. They swiftly rise from the bottom to breech above the surface to take their fill and to take turns feeding. Humpback whales can consume as much as a ton of krill and small fish per day in the summer. They migrate to the nutrient-rich waters of Southeast Alaska in the summer after having fasted all winter and then returning to the warm waters of Hawaii and Mexico in the winter to breed.

In Alaska, outside of Juneau, we chose Allen’s Marine with their fleet of catamarans, specially designed to navigate Southeast Alaska’s passages for our whale watching adventure. They are equipped with water jets and are fast, but stable. Large wraparound windows allow for maximum visibility and the large cabin keeps you toasty warm and comfortable while you are watching for the wildlife that lives in the water in and around Alaska. You can capture wildlife on film from inside the cabin or you can go up to the top deck, which is open for easy viewing from all sides.

Sea Lions sunning Photo by George Bradshaw

Along the way are picturesque lighthouses, such as the one at Point Retreat. Watch the buoys as you go by as they are a favorite places for sea lions to sun themselves. They are also a favorite perch for bald eagles as they scan the water for their prey of fish. The eagles’ nests can be spotted in the tall trees along the shoreline.

North Pass, between Lincoln and Shelter Islands is a favorite hangout for the Orca (killer whale) and they like to prey on the sea lions. The Orca is hard to spot because all that is usually showing above the water is their tall, thin dorsal fin. A sharp eye is required to spot them. You can also find Harbor Seals and Dall’s Porpoises in this area.

The whale and wildlife quest tour lasts about three hours and is well worth the money and time. We have taken the tour twice and have not been disappointed either time.

Tomorrow – A Trip in Time to Skagway, Alaska

Ketchikan, referred to as “Alaska’s First City,” is the first port of call for all the cruise lines. Because the cruise lines are the lifeblood of the town, the store’s hours in downtown are “whenever the ships are in port.”

World-famous for the abundance of incredible totem poles in the region, Ketchikan is also known as the “Salmon Capital of the World.” The amazing thing about Ketchikan is that there are no roads into it from the outside world. Everything must be brought in by boat, ferry or plane – even the garbage truck that reads “Satisfaction Guaranteed or Double Your Garbage Back.”

Located about 650 miles north of Seattle, Ketchikan is approximately a half-mile wide and seven miles long with a population of approximately 13,000.

Totems and other talents

The Tlingit people originally settled the area as a summer fishing camp. The town’s name comes from a Tlingit phrase meaning “eagle with spread-out wings.” Rich in Indian heritage, the Haida, the Tlingit and Tsinshiam are all a part of the city’s colorful history.

Totem Carving in Ketchikan Photo by George Bradshaw

A visit to Saxman Village was the highlight of our time in Ketchikan. During the short bus ride from town, our guide gave us a running dialogue about Ketchikan, the area, and the Native Indians in the area. Saxman Village has the largest gathering of totem poles in the world and the meanings of the figures on the poles were explained, and also how some of the poles came to be carved. This spectacular collection is the site of Tlingit carvings from abandoned towns and cemeteries of the towns and villages in the area.

A short informative video about the culture and history of the clan and the village, shown in a decorative hall, was first on the agenda. Then we were entertained at the Beaver Clan House with dance and song by local inhabitants in full native attire. The public was invited to participate in the final song and dance, and some brave souls willingly gave it a try. We also visited the Carving Center to see the master carvers at work in creating new poles and carvings and restoring others.

A visit to the gift shop helped us discover items and books to learn more about the village and its people. A walk through the forest surrounding the village introduced us to plants and trees native to the area.

Returning to Ketchikan, we toured Creek Street, the city’s famous former red-light district, which is now a shopping area full of art galleries and unique shops. Also in town, you can see the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show which pits teams against each other in lumberjacking skills such as log rolling, axe throwing and tree climbing. There was so much to do in Ketchikan and so little time to do it!

Come back tomorrow for a whale watch!

I was amazed at the size of the big white ship docked at Vancouver, B.C. We had flown in and were ready to board for our 7-day cruise through the famous Alaskan Inside Passage. Traveling with two other couples, we had mini-suites with balconies side by side on the Dolphin Deck, Deck 9.

Cruising from Vancouver Photo by George Bradshaw

To allow for easier visiting, the steward opened up the partitions between the balconies of our cabins. The Sapphire Princess is 946 feet long with a breadth at its widest deck of 136 feet. At full sea speed, it can reach over 22 knots. It can accommodate over 2600 guests with a crew of over 1100.

The cabins were roomy with a queen size bed, TVs, a sofa, a chair, walk-in closet and full bath with tub and shower. The whole ship was beautifully decorated and the cabins were no exception.

The dining rooms, serving world-class cuisine, offered a choice of many entrees, including a menu for vegetarians. The wait staff was excellent.

North to Alaska

We set sail from Vancouver, B.C. and made our way up the inside passage to the southeast region of Alaska. Our cruise lasted seven days and included ports of call in Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway. We also cruised Glacier Bay and College Fiord. At each port of call, there were many shore excursions to choose from or we could wander through the streets and explore on our own.

While at sea there were so many activities provided, it was hard to choose. One of the more popular spots on board was the casino, which was open only when we were at sea. The spa offered relaxing massages after a hard day at play.

Professional entertainment was offered every evening in the theater, the many lounges and clubs on board. A talented group of singers and dancers presented Las Vegas-type shows, and comedians and dance bands featured all types of music. Whatever our preference, it was there.

Our final destination was the port of Whittier, Alaska, where we disembarked to begin land tours or to fly home from Anchorage. We had traveled 1,673 nautical miles since leaving Vancouver.

Even on the days when it was drizzly and the sun didn’t shine all that much, the whole experience was wonderful. I know that this won’t be our last cruise; we are all eager to cruise again.

Tomorrow: Ketchikan connections

Since The Queen Mary is now docked in Long Beach, California, the Queen Mary Hotel can provide an approximation of what it would have been like to travel the Atlantic in style.

Queen Mary from Long Beach

The rich woods, luxurious appointments and old world courtesies are in evidence at the Queen Mary Hotel. Just as in the original ocean liner, there are several classes of rooms available. We enjoyed an upgraded “stateroom” with a king-sized bed and original maple wood built-in cabinets. Later, we were told by Virginia, at the front desk, that Walt Disney had enjoyed staying in that stateroom.

Opulence and luxury - dress worn on Queen Mary's maiden voyage

Unlike hotels, all rooms (or staterooms) are not right on the corridor, but some are tucked back in a narrow, recessed hallway. The engineers must have worked hard to fit in the different levels of staterooms with all of the amenities.

The rooms have some quaint details left from the ship’s days of plying the Atlantic. There are small fans in each room that no longer function, left over from the ship’s original travels. An interesting duct system with a “punkah louvre” sends the cooled or heated air into each room. Cabinets have buttons, which you push to open a door; lights also use buttons instead of switches.

Some of the bathrooms have “salt” printed on the faucet handles, but they are no longer functional, just a relic from early years when people thought salt water bathing was restorative. And, if you have an outside room, your windows will be portals.

Recently, the hotel bedding has been upgraded and the beds are quite comfortable with big, high beds with cotton sheeting, down pillows and new bedspreads. There are also flat-screen TVs in each room with HBO.

Vintage painting from former smoking room - no smoking now, anywhere on ship

The most fun part of the stay can be a tour that gives you a chance to see where movies and TV shows have been filmed. In a large ballroom and other locations on the ship, the X-Files filmed the famous episode where Mulder winds up on a German cruise ship in World War II. The Poseidon Adventure and other notable shows have also come to the Queen Mary to add authenticity to their films and episodes.

Weddings and other gatherings are often held at the Queen Mary. That can be problematic for overnight guests who want quiet and their carousing neighbors are in a noisy, celebratory mood. The walls are thin, which is a fact people overlook, although that detail is posted and in an information card in each room. The card says, “Without the rumble of the ship’s engines, sound does travel through the steel walls.”

Places to eat onboard

From snack bar to white tablecloth, award winning restaurant, the Queen Mary provides a range of dining options to guests and day visitors. At the high end of the range is Sir Winston’s that demands “no jeans” and offers items such as chateaubriand with béarnaise and truffle sauces for $39. Chelsea, a “four-star seafood bistro,” has other offerings.

Both Sir Winston’s and Chelsea are only open for dinner. The Promenade Café serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and, while the dress may be casual, the service is formal, proficient and friendly, as you might find on the ship during an ocean crossing. The Hollywood Deli offers pizzas, salads and sandwiches from mid-morning to early evening. Hotel guests may also have room service deliver to them until as late as 1:00 AM.

If you are in the southern LA area and want an unusual experience, staying at the Queen Mary, dining onboard or taking one of their tours can be a memorable time.

Note: Don’t worry about the boat rocking! You won’t get seasick because the boat is stabilized at the dock.

Docked permanently in Long Beach, California, the cruise liner Queen Mary saw many years of active service until it reached its current permanent berth.

Queen Mary with Russian submarine

Now a hotel, tourist attraction and historical museum, the Queen is a venerable ship that first plied the waters in the time just before World War II. The passenger capacity was almost 2,000, with the crew representing a little more than half that number.

Recreation of a deluxe suite's sitting room

Part of the Cunard line, known for its luxurious treatment of the rich and famous, the Queen Mary was pressed into service to transport troops during WWII. All of the rich appointments were removed so the over 16,000 troops and crew could be transported to war zones. During the War, Winston Churchill planned the D-Day invasion from his suite on the Queen Mary.

Churchill planned the D-Day invasion here

After the war, the Queen Mary was refitted as a luxury liner and resumed its trips between Europe and New York City. The rich and famous enjoyed the pleasures of the transatlantic passages. Celebrities like Clark Gable, Elizabeth Taylor, Bob Hope, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Tony Curtis, and Liberace were all passengers at one time.

Eventually with the advent of jet air travel, ocean liners lost favor and the Queen was “withdrawn from service” in 1967. In a closed bid, Long Beach won the Queen because it proposed a use for the venerable liner that was respectful of its history.

To see the ship’s historical exhibit, unless you’ve been staying at the Queen Mary Hotel, there is a hefty charge of $24.95 per adult, $12.95 for children. Is it worth that money? That depends on your perspective and interests. We were glad we could see it for free, since we’d stayed at the hotel.

In addition to a detailed timeline showing the major events in the Queen Mary’s history, there is an exhibit that shows originals from the ship’s existence. You can see an extensively beaded dress worn during the Queen’s maiden voyage, a recreation of a first class suite, crew quarters, and the massive engines, which are no longer in service.

Tomorrow: Staying on the Queen Mary, the hotel.

While my wife and I were on an Australian and New Zealand cruise, I celebrated my birthday on January 31. A lifetime dream for both of us, celebrating my birthday during the trip was “the frosting on the cake.”
After rising early and enjoying an early room service breakfast on our private balcony, we took a tender boat ashore and boarded a tour bus for the “Historic Hokianga Experience.”

A scenic journey to the Waipoura Forest was next where we viewed the largest Kauri tree in the world, an awe-inspiring experience. Kauri are ancient trees that can grow up to 150 feet high. (Wikipedia)

Our tour bus/guide/driver was an ex-teacher and principal. Since we are both retired teachers, we could relate and asked questions about New Zealand schools and education. Our tour guide, knowledgeable about schools, also shared cultural and language information on the Maori, the original natives of New Zealand.

The next stop was at the Crossings Hokianga depot, where we boarded a catamaran for a tour of the harbor. We saw sand dunes and sand boarders – people who surf board down the dunes into the water. This looked like fun!

We had a memorable lunch at the Oponomi Hotel with pumpkin soup and mutton as the meal’s highlights.

Memorable  Mission House Stop

Our last tour stop was the Waimete Mission House, the second oldest building in New Zealand, where the second signing of the Treaty of Waitanga took place. The Treaty, between the Maori people and the United Kingdom, granted the Maori people equal rights in New Zealand.

New Zealand's 2nd oldest building - Waimate Mission House

An afternoon tea at the Mission House included tea, fruit, and scrumptious scones with jam and clotted cream – a wonderful birthday treat! We happened to mention that it was my birthday to the caretaker’s daughter during our tea.

New Zealand birthday celebration with Guest Author Jim Crowe

Later, we toured the Mission House, Sunday school building, church, cemetery and gardens.
On our ride back to the ship, our tour guide mentioned that it was a Maori tradition for a speaker to finish his speech with a song. His speech was ended with a familiar song – the “Happy Birthday” song. When finished, he asked me to stand at my seat and had the other tour members serenade me with “Happy Birthday” in English.
On our final departure from the bus, the tour guide handed me a thoughtful gift from the caretaker’s daughter, a beautiful card with the Mission House printed on the cover.
My New Zealand visit was a birthday I will always remember and treasure.