One of the most popular tourist attractions in Fairbanks, Alaska is the Discovery Sternwheeler boat, docked on the Chena River not far from downtown. It is owned by the Binkley family, who have been in the riverboat business since the days of the Klondike gold rush. It has been a tourist attraction since 1950 and has been continuously captained by members of the Binkley family.

Take a ride on the Discovery Sternwheeler

Discovery now makes at least two trips a day, sometimes three, down the Chena to the Tanana River, past shore demonstrations which include Susan Butcher’s famed Iditarod dog kennels, landing and take off by a bush pilot and a fish cutting and smoking demonstration by natives in the area. It is a three and a half hour cruise, ending in an hour walking tour of a mock Athabasca village.

The village has demonstrations of native art, sewing of furs, and a hands-on lecture with the sled dogs. Native housing has been built on the site and are replicas of the original dwellings and show both winter and summer means of living, styles of clothing and cooking and storage of foods. The fish cutting and preservation is still done the way it was a hundred or more years ago. The salmon that is caught in traps on the Tanana River are used to feed both people and the dogs. The dogs are well taken care of because they are vital to winter travel in Alaska.

The houses that are on the banks of the Chena River illustrate all kinds of architecture, both old and new. Many are expensive homes built by residents of Fairbanks and are situated along side the older homes of the old-timers who have been there forever. All are fortified for the winter months and have boats docked at wharves, and many have small float planes tied up along side the boats. A large percentage of Alaskans own airplanes because they are the only way to get into the outlying areas of the state.

The sternwheeler now mainly carries tourists brought in by the bus load and there is the usual gift shop on board and at the dock, but the trip is not boring. It is a slice of Alaska history that still lives on.

Come back tomorrow for a visit to Portland, Oregon brewpubs.

Check out our “Shop”  with some great views you can keep! 

Stepping onto the dome car of the Alaska Railroad you do not realize that this train is not just a tourist train.

Domed car of the Alaskan Railroad

We were on a land tour, after having completed our cruise part of our vacation, and thought this was just another part of this fantastic trip we were having. I have been fortunate enough to ride the Alaskan Railroad twice in my life, both as a part of a tour. The dome car is filled with passengers just like me, armed with cameras and wearing newly purchased Alaska T-shirts.

Avalanches and heavy snows have stalled the railroad many times and crews are sent out as fast as they can so the railroad will keep running. A rockslide once closed the highway to Whittier and the train took over the task of transporting passengers back and forth to Anchorage, with stops at small towns and villages along the way. The railroad is based in Anchorage with a large rail yard and switching station.

Train pulling into Denali Station

The railroad has signed an agreement with the National Park Services to make stops at National Parks such as Chugach and Denali. It regularly stops at Talkeetna and Wasilla and other towns on the rail route.

Our journey on the railroad included excellent service with drinks and snacks, and a dining car with specialties such as reindeer chili and reindeer stew. Service is excellent as is the cuisine. There are observation platforms where passengers can view the scenery as it passes and take photos to their hearts content. You can see Mt. McKinley from several viewpoints and in places the railroad bed follows the Susiitna River. The tour guides are always well informed and can answer questions readily. It was a trip to be remembered and to marvel about.

Train following Susitina River

History of the Railroad

The Alaskan Railroad was completed in 1923; President Harding tapping in a gold spike. The railroad has enabled communities to settle and flourish along the railroad. Supplies are delivered to the Fairbanks gold fields, plus pipe and supplies for the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. The railroad helped to build the Alaskan Highway and it supported the war effort during WWII. Eight million tons of freight are hauled over the rails every year, along with 500,000 passengers and provides access for Alaskans and visitors from the tidewater in Seward and Whittier to the interior of Alaska.

Tomorrow… Visit another Oregon brewpub – this time in Corvallis, home of the Oregon State University Beavers – “Go Beavs!”

Eighty-four miles north of Fairbanks, Alaska begins the primitive road known as The Dalton Highway, or the Haul Road. It was first called the Haul Road because almost everything supporting the oilfields of the North Slope of Alaska was transported across this road on tractor-trailer rigs. It ends 414 miles later in Deadhorse, the industrial camp at Prudhoe Bay. A primitive road from its beginning to its end, there are very few stretches of pavement. It is the farthest north road and involves risks and challenges, but at the same time gives the opportunity to traverse a remote, unpopulated part of Alaska to the very top of the continent.

Highway through Atigun Pass

Before you decide to heed the call to adventure down the Dalton, there are some things you need to know. There is no public access to the Artic Ocean from Deadhorse. You must be on an authorized tour. The Arctic Caribou Inn offers authorized tours (call toll free 866-659-2368).

Second, there are no medical facilities between Fairbanks and Deadhorse, a distance of 498 miles.

Third, food, gas, and vehicle repair service are extremely limited. There are no public services at Department of Transportation maintenance stations or Alyeska Pipeline Service pump stations. There are gas stations at Yukon Crossing, Coldfoot and Deadhorse. There are no grocery stores along the highway. Snack food and cafes are located at several locations, such as Yukon Crossing and Coldfoot. There are no banks. ATM machines are available in Deadhorse. Most services accept major credit cards and traveler’s checks. There is no cell phone coverage from milepost 28 until just outside of Deadhorse, about 456 highway miles.

Short stretch of the famous Alaskan Pipeline

The road is narrow, has soft shoulders, high embankments and steep hills. Big trucks always have the right of way. Slow down when passing other vehicles to avoid damaging them with flying rocks. Always drive with your lights on so others can see you and always keep them clean, along with tail lights, so they are visible. If you spot wild life, pull over to a safe location before stopping. 

We were on an authorized tour and our tour guide knew the best places to stop to view wildlife. We saw herds of migrating caribou, plus musk ox and arctic fox, and plenty of Dall sheep. The North Slope is a wide-open landscape and you can see animals from great distances. Always have your binoculars handy. As you travel along, take the time to scan open areas along mountain slopes, riverbanks, lakes and meadows as this is where you are likely to see the abundant wildlife that live on the tundra of the North Slope of Alaska. The Dalton follows the pipeline for much of the way south and in places it zig-zags through the area as a means to avoid the frozen areas of the tundra and to keep the oil flowing. In some places the pipeline is buried underground and other places it runs above the ground. This is due to the condition of the tundra and whether the area is of permafrost or not. Where there is permafrost, the pipeline runs above the ground so that the hot oil will not melt it.

Places of interest along the Dalton are the Yukon River Crossing (MP 56) and its unique wooden bridge; Finger Mountain Wayside (MP 98) with its formation sticking into the air, pointing the way to Fairbanks for the bush pilots to see; and the Sukakpak Mountain (MP 203), a massive wall rising 4,459 feet that glows in the afternoon sun.

A trip down the Dalton Highway can be made in 13-14 hours but to really enjoy the sights and take in the wildlife, it is recommended that the trip take more than one day. There is so much to see and do, and you should do your homework as to the best places to stop, camp or stay. The Bureau of Land Management can provide you with a visitor guide to the Dalton Highway.

The Dalton Highway has recently been featured on “Ice Road Truckers” on the History Channel.

Visit their web site at www.blm.gov/ak/dalton.

Tomorrow… Come back for a visit to microbreweries in Oregon –beer!

The tundra of Alaska is a stark but beautiful landscape. As the coldest of all the biomes, tree growth is hindered by low temperatures and a short growing season. Tundra also contains permafrost, which means that the soil is permanently frozen and can be from 10-35 inches deep, making it impossible for trees to grow.

Because the soil is frozen, moisture cannot soak into the ground, thus forming the lakes and pools that are so prevalent across the Alaskan North Slope. The permafrost lies only inches beneath the surface of the Coastal Plain, thus creating a bizarre landscape of wetlands and ice-wedge polygons.

Caribou watering at the Sagavanirktok River

The Dalton Highway runs north and south across the tundra and into the mountain ranges and gives marvelous views of scenery like no other in the world. There are Wayside Stations and Overlooks along the highway and plenty of opportunity to stop to take photos, watch wildlife, or just walk around to soak up the cool air.

The tundra is home to the world’s largest herd of caribou and they have seasonal migration. The herds always have the right-of-way as they cross the roads. You can also spot wolves, wolverine, grizzly bear, red fox, and musk ox. Hunting over the open terrain along the highway and river are many birds of prey. While crossing the Brooks Range you can spot moose and wolves, and make sure you scan the skies for golden eagles. The Arctic National Wildlife Refuse borders the BLM Utility Corridor to the east and extends across the Brooks Range and the North Slope to Canada. It offers extraordinary wilderness, recreation and wildlife values.

This far north in Alaska, the sun never sets between May 10 and August 2, and never rises between November 18 and January 23.

Arctic Circle sign - yes, it is that cold!

The Arctic Circle crosses the Dalton Highway at MP 115. It is a must stop for photos and to gather in front of the sign that marks the spot. At this spot the sun stays above the horizon for one full day on summer solstice (June 21) and below the horizon for one full day on winter solstice (December 21).

Brooks Range, eerily beautiful

Gobblers Knob at MP 132 offers an excellent view of the Brooks Range to the north. The farthest north spruce, located at MP 235, was approximately 273 years old when it was killed by a vandal in 2004. You leave the tundra and cross the Continental Divide at Atigun Pass (elev. 4,739).

The tundra is a fascinating place to visit and full of wildlife and interesting scenes. State statute prohibits off-road vehicles within 5 miles either side of the highway from the Yukon River to the Arctic Ocean to protect the natural resources.

When I first got off of the airplane at Deadhorse, Alaska, I wanted to get right back on and fly away. It was 33 degrees and it was June 23, summer solstice, and the wind was blowing at least 30-40 miles an hour. We all climbed onto a tour bus (which was warm) and were taken to the motel where we would be staying, the Arctic Caribou Inn, while we experienced our unique visit to the oil fields of the North Slope of Alaska.

Summer thermometer reading in Deadhorse, Alaska

I can’t think of any way to describe the Arctic Caribou Inn. It is beyond quaint. It started out to be living quarters for the men working on the Alaskan pipeline and is now a motel, not only for the men, but for tourists as well. It also has a chow hall. It’s in the form of a buffet line, but that doesn’t come close to describing it. The food is served out of large metal pans in large oil-field-worker size portions, complete with salad and desert bar, and almost any kind of beverage you could want. There is no alcohol served around the oilfields. The dining area consists of a large room filled with tables and benches. The motel rooms are small, totally unique and, if you want to be pampered, I don’t recommend that you go there.

We rode several miles across the oilfields in an old school bus owned by one of the oil companies, crossing the treeless tundra that is the Northern Slope of Alaska. Then we arrived at the Arctic Ocean and climbed off the bus. Our intent was to dip a toe or a finger in the ocean just to say we had done it. The temperature was still in the thirties and the wind speed had increased to about 50 miles an hour, making it almost impossible to walk, or to breathe, for that matter. We buttoned our coats up to the neck and put on our hoods or stocking caps and ventured forth to accomplish our task at hand. For every step we took forward, we were blown back two! Our noses and cheeks felt like they were frost-bitten because the wind-chill factor was below zero!

Arctic Ocean with ice shelf in distance

We never did dip anything in the Arctic Ocean. It was hard enough to walk to the beach at the water’s edge. We gathered a few rocks as souvenirs. Our visit to Prudhoe Bay, Deadhorse and the Arctic Caribou Inn was probably the most outstanding adventure I have ever had, and, yes, I would go again in a heartbeat. Why would anyone want to go to Prudhoe Bay? To have the time of their lives is all.

Glacier Bay is part of the National Park Service and vessel permits are required before entering Glacier Bay from June 1 to August 31. You can request a permit by contacting the National Park Service at Bartlett Cove. Comrprised of 3.3 million acres of mountains, glaciers, forests, and waterways, Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve are a highlight of the Inside Passage and part of a 25-million-acre World Heritage Site – one of the world’s largest protected natural areas – designated by UNESCO.

Glacier in Glacier Bay

We entered Glacier Bay after picking up a pilot and a ranger from the National Park headquarters at Bartlett Cove. We ventured forth into the bay and headed towards the tidewater glaciers at the north end of the bay. A journey through Glacier Bay is more than a journey through geography; it is a journey through time. We traveled roughly sixty-five miles from the forested lower bay to the rocky, icy upper bay, where glaciers meet the waterline and are as tall as twenty-story buildings. It is hard to realize that the glaciers are that high unless there is a watercraft to put it into perspective.

The captain of the ship uses the gigantic thrusters on the ship to swing the ship 360 degrees so everyone may view each and every glacier from every angle. The Margerie Glacier at the end of Tarr Inlet is spectacular, as is the John Hopkins Glacier.

If we are lucky, we will watch the calving, the breaking off of ice chunks from the glaciers. They are constantly on the move and the constant cracking of the ice sounds like gunshots from a distance. The glaciers are many colors. Blue is the only color retained within the ice and not reflected away, giving the ice a blue appearance. “Dirty ice” is also seen. As the glaciers move along, dirt and rocks are embedded within the ice and are carried to the water.

On to College Fjord

Glacier in College Fjord

After we left Glacier Bay, we sailed northward towards the port of Whittier, with a side trip to College Fjord. College Fjord is the hidden jewel of Prince William Sound. It is located in a narrow channel outlined by mountains and punctuated by ice-blue glaciers. The Harriman Expedition of 1899 named these glaciers after Ivy League colleges. Again we were treated to 360-degree viewing by the captain. We counted seven glaciers at one point, all flowing gracefully and beautifully into the water. The glaciers were a sparkling end to our voyage through the Inside Passage.

Tomorrow – Join us in finding out why anyone would want to go to Prudhoe Bay.

Soapy Smith's Restaurant - Fairbanks, Alaska

To step into Soapy Smith’s Restaurant in Fairbanks , Alaska is to step back in time, yet it is a modern, up-to-date restaurant with good food and good service.Our tour bus driver took us there, a recommended lunch stop as we drove through the town to see the sights. There were almost 40 of us on the bus and the restaurant accommodated us within minutes and the waitresses/waiters were there right away to take our drink orders.

Inside - Busy and fun

The food was good and plentiful; their renowned clam chowder was delicious.

Soapy Smith's menu - prices reasonable considering the location

The Native Heritage Center, located outside of Anchorage, Alaska, introduces you to native traditions and customs of both the past and the present. We stopped there on our way from Whittier to Anchorage.

Alaskan Native Art Statue at entrance of the Heritage Center - photo by George Bradshaw

The Welcome House displays items of native culture and also has workshops and demonstrations, plus lectures and stories by members of the different clans. There is also a gift shop with authentic wares from the different cultures that are truly beautiful.

Outside we explored the village sites of the different clans and listened to clan members describe ancient traditions and tell stories of the present. The indigenous peoples of Alaska include the Athabascan, Aleut, Alutiiq, Tlingit, Haida, Inupiaq, Yupik, Eyak, Cupik and Tsinshian tribes, and we learned in which areas of Alaska they lived and how they lived. Because of the extreme cold in the winter in most areas, their dwellings were well insulated by being built half underground or by covering the house with soil and tundra.

Athabaskan clan native describes dwelling - Photo by George Bradshaw

The most interesting thing we learned was that all dwellings had to have an escape route in case a bear got into the interior. The entrances were small to hinder the bears from getting in.

Traditional Alaskan house insulated by sod and soil - Photo by George Bradshaw

We learned of the tools, watercraft, and drums that were used and how they were made, and saw the displays of art that were everywhere. There was an abundance of totem poles depicting the different clans and workshops where they were carving additional ones.

A small whale skeleton is on display and also huge whale ribs that formed an archway. When the hunters captured and killed a whale or sea lion, every part of the animal was used to make life better for them. Not only was it used to feed, but also to clothe the inhabitants and to make utensils. We saw whole seals whose hides were used for totes and storage.

The houses were simple but functional and were used for living and for ceremonies. The furniture was attached to the walls permanently and lined the walls, leaving the center area open for pit fires and cooking. The beds resembled bunk beds and had boughs and furs lining the bottoms for comfort and warmth. Caches (houses on stilts) were built to keep food safe from wild animals and dogs.

A visit to the Alaskan Native Heritage Center is a must-see when you are in the Anchorage area. We learned the basics of all the cultures in one place. We spent an afternoon there in order to see it all, but was well worth the time.

When Gold was discovered in the Klondike in 1896 and a ton of gold arrived in Seattle in 1897, the gold rush was on! Everyone rushed to the goldfields through Chilkoot Pass. It was six hundred miles over treacherous and dangerous trails and waterways. Another trail was developed through White Pass and this became the route of the White Pass and Yukon Railroad.

White Pass and Yukon Railroad on its Climb to the Klondike Photo by George Bradshaw

The White Pass & Yukon route climbs from sea level in Skagway to almost 3,000 feet at the Summit in just about 20 miles and features steep grades of almost 3.9%. The tight curves of the White Pass called for a narrow gauge – a ten foot wide road bed with the rails three feet apart. Construction began in the spring of 1898, reached the Summit in February of 1899, and was completed in 1900. The railroad is 110 miles long, ending in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada. The railroad overcame great odds to be completed and was designated an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark in 1994.

The scenic trip starts in Skagway and follows the route that the miners took to the goldfields of the Klondike, passing Gold Rush Cemetery, resting place for early Skagway residents; the Denver Glacier Trail, a favorite hike that leads to the base of the glacier; Brackett Road, an early toll road leading across White Pass; Bridal Veil Falls, a 6,000-foot waterfall originating from the glaciers; and Glacier Station, once a stop for thirsty steam engines on the uphill grade.

There are two tunnels on the route. The yawning chasm of Glacier Gorge disappears into Tunnel Mountain, 1,000 feet above the floor of the gulch. The second tunnel is 675 feet long and was built in 1969, and a new bridge was constructed to replace the old steel bridge. When constructed in 1901, the old steel bridge was the tallest cantilevered bridge in the world.

When the train leaves the tunnel, you can see remnants of the old Trail of ’98, a primary route from Skagway to the goldfields.

White Pass Summit is 2,865 feet above sea level and is located at the U.S. – Canadian Border. At Bennett, B.C., you leave the train and return to Skagway via a comfortable motor coach, with plenty of stops for photo opportunities.

The WP&YR not only operates for the benefit of the tourists who come to ride the adventurous railroad, but it also serves as a supply route for the remote towns in the Yukon. The railroad pioneered the use of container cars to move goods over the mountains and down to the sea. The White Pass spirit lives on today.

Next week: More on Los Angeles

The Alaskan gold rush lured thousands to Skagway, which became known as the gateway to the goldfields. By 1898, it was Alaska’s largest town with a population of about 20,000, not counting the 10,000 people living in the tent city of nearby Dyea. Today, Skagway has less than 1,000 residents but the population more than doubles on the days when the cruise ships pull into the dock.

Skagway boasted the shortest route to the Klondike, but it was far from being the easiest. Over a hundred years ago, the White Pass route through the coast mountains and the shorter, but steeper, Chilkoot Trail, were used by thousands of stampeders. The treacherous Chilkoot Trail, combined with the area’s cruel elements, left scores dead. The hotels, saloons, dance halls and gambling houses prospered, but as the gold supply dwindled, so did the population of the town, as the miners left to go to newly-discovered gold fields.

Skagway, Former Gold Boom Town Photo by George Bradshaw

Today, Skagway retains the look and flavor of the 1898 gold rush era with its false fronts and brightly painted buildings. Although the buildings are still there, restored, the occupancy is quite different. The saloons and brothels now house shops and businesses that cater to the tourist trade that keeps Skagway alive and well.

One of the most prominent men to take up residence in Skagway was Soapy Smith. Soapy was a criminal and con man who left successful careers in the lower states to try his luck in Alaska. He began to control the town, including the town marshal and deputies and schemed to take everyone’s money for himself. He was eventually killed in a gunfight when the townsfolk got fed up with his dishonest ways. His final disgrace was to be buried just outside the boundaries of the city cemetery, set apart from the “decent” residents of the town.

Skagway is located at the northern tip of the Inside Passage and got its name from the Tlingit name “Skagua” which means “the place where the north wind blows.” It became the first incorporated city in Alaska in 1900 and was the second largest settlement in Alaska at the time. Skagway is now home to the headquarters of the Gold Rush National Historical Park. It is also the starting point of the famed White Pass and Yukon Railway.

Tomorrow:  Take a ride on the White Pass and Yukon Railroad