Daytime temperatures get into the 70ºs (Fahrenheit) and the sun is shining. Soon, we’ll have a profusion of flowers – yes, it really can flower in the desert!

So, on a day when most of the country was socked in with snow, I’ll show you where I hiked.  With a jacket that I wound up taking off since I became too warm while hiking, I headed out on a trail that gave me views of downtown Phoenix, Camelback Mountain and a panorama of the whole surrounding area.

Take a look – South Mountain Park – the largest city park in the USA.   These pictures show the Javelina Canyon Trail (Easy to moderate difficulty) that you can enter from 46^th Street (south off Baseline Road).

Beginning of the trail - Javelina Canyon Trail in South Mountain Park

Camelback Mountain in the distance

The trail

Phoenix downtown (in the distance) from South Mountain Park

Head over there now!  (I’ll wait!) http://hiking.forthecouchpotato.com

Take a quick look at image number 4 at the top of the page (just scroll over) and you’ll see a reddish, sandstone rock that seems to have some people tucked in an opening.

Okay, now that you’ve seen that truly unusual natural development, wouldn’t you like to know where it is?

That image is the closest of the four to my home in Arizona.

It’s – Papago Park in the Phoenix, Arizona area.  Of the many natural formations in the central Arizona area, Papago Park allows visitors to come and hike up (from the area behind the photo you’re seeing) and look out at the world.  The walk is not too challenging, but since it’s terraced with some built in “stairs,” it would be tough for someone in a wheelchair.  However, most other people would be able to walk up to see the view.

Papago Park also is well-located, as it is near both the Phoenix Zoo and Desert Botanical Garden.  Plan a day seeing all of those sights if you’re planning to come to Arizona.

And, despite the bad press Arizona is getting these days about guns, most of us are not gun-toting, wild west types spoiling for a fight.   You can expect to be treated well here as some of the most luxurious hotels and exotic scenery of the US southwest is right here in the Phoenix area.  And, the majority of people are well- behaved, law-abiding citizens.

In some giant US cities, they build up with multi-storied skyscrapers. But, with the vast spaces available in Arizona, they have built out and even have had height restrictions on how high buildings can be built.

So, welcome to Phoenix.  Spread out and still in the desert.

Saguaro cacti and mountains are a short ride from the hustle and bustle

The convoluted routes

In recent years, the road system has been improved with “loop” routes that circle the built up cities and allow travelers to get places more quickly.   If you want to travel to the more northerly areas of Phoenix, take the 101 loop to Scottsdale, North Phoenix, Glendale and Peoria.  The “101” also connects to the north-south Interstate Route 17, which has recently been widened to four lanes in the northern segment. The 101 also connects to Interstate 10, which wiggles all around and, at times, going west when it is really heading north, etc.

Previously, getting out of town to Sedona and other points north has been a nightmare, but with the widened area, that is improved.  That does not stop (note – STOPPED – totally) the occasional road stoppage as when there were brush fires near the road and traffic was stopped for significant chunks of time.

The completed loop 202 allows traffic to flow more freely in the southeastern part of the “Valley,” connecting travelers to the 101, Route 60 (east/west road) and Interstate 10.

So, what I’m saying is that traffic issues can still be problematic.  Avoid traveling on major interstates, if at all possible, during rush hour.  On some of the arterials, two or more people in a vehicle can take advantage of “HOV” – high occupancy vehicle – lanes and move along faster than ordinary mortals.

Downtown Phoenix

Why travel around in the Phoenix area?

Well, for one thing, there are lots of things to see and do, spread out in many directions.  As a resident of the area, we don’t always go to the tourist spots, but we often go to the different extremes.

East

We have enjoyed the Boyce Thompson Arboretum  – out east – in Superior several times.  Route 60 will get you there for a great view of desert plants, both especially cultivated and native.  It’s worth the drive, both for the scenery and the respite from the hustle and bustle.

http://arboretum.ag.arizona.edu/index.html

Cacti at Boyce Thompson Arboretum - one of many displays

There are indications that copper mining is reviving in the area as well.

North

Taking the loop 101 to Scottsdale or points further north like Cave Creek and Carefree (don’t you just love that name!) will get you some culture, laid back cowboy and arts environments, and open desert.

By the pool at the Carefree Resort

West

Before you hit the open road on the way to Los Angeles on Interstate 10, you’ll be able to see Glendale, noted for antiques and their bead museum, Peoria, Surprise, Goodyear and Buckeye.

http://www.beadmuseumaz.org/

Way out west is the Wigwam Resort, an interesting throwback to a gracious cowboy era. Originally a location for Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company execs to vacation, since the company had bought land to cultivate for cotton, the Litchfield Park area was ‘way ‘way out in the country back almost a century ago.

http://www.wigwamresort.com/about-us.html

South

In the south Valley, although many communities have grown up in the last 10-20 years, there are still some rural areas where they cultivate cotton, raise cattle and dig for copper (part of the 5 “C’s that made Arizona famous – Cattle, Citrus, Climate, Copper, and Cotton).   On an occasional day, you might even be able to see the wild horses for which the Wild Horse Pass area near I10 is named.

Cattle - a major "crop" in Arizona

Why visit Phoenix?

Despite the bad publicity that the misguided “SB1070” law has created for Arizona, Phoenix is still a great place to visit.  If you’re used to the cramped quarters of most large US cities, the Phoenix area can be a revelation.   There are still wide-open spaces, desert landscaping (original, not cultivated), and a sense of peace with fabulous sunsets to enthrall you.

Sunset in Arizona

This time of year, travelers can take advantage of great hotel rates, since the weather typically tops 100 degrees (Fahrenheit) until close to October.  You won’t notice the heat, unless you decide to sit by a pool, but then you can take a dip so it won’t matter. Otherwise, air-conditioning reigns supreme – you might even need a light wrap inside!

On my first trip prior to moving to the area, I came out in the middle of June with temperatures around 115 degrees.  Even with my 3-piece business suit, I fell in love with the climate.  I’ve been healthier in Phoenix because of the infamous dry climate (humidity is typically less than 20%).

Although I’m not a paid tourist bureau rep, I’d suggest you take a trip to Phoenix.  It is a great place to unwind.

Saguaro on a slope

Join us next week as we surprise you with more about Arizona and the Southwest

Actually, Saguaro National Park is two parks – located about an hour away from each other.  Saguaro National Park West  (Tucson Mountain District) – and Saguaro National Park East – or the Rincon Mountain District offer two different views of cacti.

Of the two parks, we preferred the West version.  For sheer thrills just getting to the Saguaro Park West is a daredevil ride down the mountain, with curving, narrow roads and a fabulous view of mountains in the distance.  The driver, however, should be concentrating on the road.  It is that hairy a drive.

Once at Saguaro West, there is a modern visitor center and amenities (there is no food at this or the Saguaro National Park East.)  In the immediate area, they have spectacular views with saguaro and other Arizona flora and fauna on view.  Park Rangers give talks and there are exhibits on display.  One fascinating exhibit we saw was of a “boot” that is formed as a bird invades the saguaro.  In response to the bird, the saguaro forms a hard coating around the chamber, which can serve as a refuge for the birds.  When the cactus eventually dies, those “boots” have been picked up people.  Symbiosis at its finest! (Two living things working together.)

What’s a saguaro?

Saguaro

(pronounced – sah-wha-ro) It’s the image you see of Arizona – other than the Grand Canyon –that straight-looking cactus with arms reaching toward the sky. The large ones that you see are very old, as they only grow about an inch a year for the first eight years.  Typically, they live for as long as 125-200 years.  And, there are some interesting variations with rarer saguaro that have crests and curvy arms.

A hillside of saguaro - notice the one with arms waving

(Information courtesy of Saguaro National Park Web site. http://www.nps.gov/sagu/planyourvisit/upload/The%20Saguaro%20Cactus.pdf )

Flowers bloom, really showy, gorgeous white flowers, after about 35 years. As a custom, Native Americans removed the buds before they flowered and brewed them into a rich, intoxicating drink for their harvest feasts.

Saguaro on a slope

We have seen saguaro north of Phoenix and as far west as California.  They also grow in Mexico.  However, they do not grow everywhere.  So, a sight of them is exciting – especially a whole hillside of them.

Back to the Parks…

Given a full day and children with a good attention span, visiting Saguaro National Park West, Old Tucson Studios (in the vicinity and detailed on Monday, January 25) and Sonoran Desert Museum (also in the vicinity, but we won’t be discussing this right away) might be possible.  But, start early and expect to spend some time at each location.  Bring snacks, as only Old Tucson Studios and Sonoran Desert Museum have food.

Saguaro National Park East is an hour away from the Eastern version.  We found it to be flat and less interesting geographically, however you can see mountains in the distance.

Hiking trails are available at both locations.  Views are memorable. The visitors centers have exhibits and friendly National Park Rangers who will answer questions.

Saguaro National Park East and West –

Admission – $10 for a car-load of people.  The receipt you receive for your admission is good for a week at either of the two Saguaro National Parks, just show it to gain admission to the other park.

Saguaro silhouetted at sunset

The Parks open at 7 AM until sunset, but the visitor centers are only open from 9 AM until 5 PM. daily.  Especially in the summer, we recommend an early visit as it gets very hot by late morning!

There are picnic tables on a first come-first-serve basis.

http://www.nps.gov/sagu/index.htm

But, I’m getting ahead of myself…

My guide for the hunt was Councilmember Carl Diedrich from the City of Maricopa, Arizona.  Using his computer, he first searched for possible geocaches in our area in Arizona.  Once we located one that sounded interesting – “Santa’s gonna come in a stagecoach” – we entered the coordinates in his GPS, copied the other clues and headed out.  The clue referenced the fact that the destination used to be an old stagecoach stop.

Starting with 16 miles to reach the coordinates of our destination, we eventually left the local highway, headed south.  After several miles of travel, we hit a dirt road, as the directions predicted.  We were in the middle of the desert with just brush and cacti for company. Then, suddenly, we saw a gate.  Miraculously in the middle of nowhere, the sign for 99^th Avenue appeared, also on our list.

Continuing a little further as the miles narrowed to our destination, we saw a small, old stone building in the distance.  Arriving at the building, now it was time to find the cache.

Old stone stagecoach stop - our destination

My host, his son and I began our search.  The person who hid the geocache was witty.  Another clue was an old Hollies song, “Look through any window, yeah, what do you see?”  We looked through all four windows.  We didn’t find anything.

We poked around, trying not to have any critters find us, and thought we’d looked everywhere.  Suddenly, Carl noticed that some rocks didn’t “look quite right.” Under a heap of rocks was the geocache.

Carl and Nate search for the treasure

Hurrah!  He was the “FTF” – first to find – the geocache.  In the metal box was a $5 bill, a small spiral pad to record the find with a pen, a travel bug (a token that has a number for recording online and tracking) and some children’s trinkets. The $5 was Carl’s reward for being FTF.  Carl left behind his own team coin, stamped the pad with his team insignia, took the travel bug to record it and move it along, sealed everything up and we were on our way.

Carl's the first to find this cache

The old stone building was an old stagecoach stop from the 1870s – a true historical site that we didn’t know existed only 16 miles away!

Anyone can go online and find locations anywhere in the world to spend a few minutes – or hours – in a geocache adventure.  Those who hide the treasures can be wily and resourceful.  It all comes down to using your wits and a GPS.

And, when you get good, you, too, can leave some treasures for others to find.

See geocaching.com to learn more about this adventure that has thousands looking for modern treasures.

Later this week…Whale watching adventures!

Camelback Inn

A five-diamond AAA property, the impeccable landscaping – desert-acclimated, of course – the warm greeting by the valet service (even if you are not leaving a car) and the casitas spread out over the landscape signal that you have arrived.  Since I stayed at the Camelback, the Marriott property has undergone a renovation, but the property still looks like a true depiction of the southwest.

Camelback Inn

Be aware, even with recession-reduced rates, a one-night stay is not “cheap.”  But, what you receive is a first-rate experience. The amenities have been upgraded since I stayed at the Camelback in the early 2000s. There are many room options with pricing beginning at approximately $200 per night and continuing upward.  (And I recall rates being in the $300-500 range when we stayed in 2001, so these are bargains.)

Internet is available in every room (fee), but the kitchen amenities are upgraded.  A microwave is included, but sometimes there is a full refrigerator and regular oven.  

The photos online show vibrant décor – ours was more muted when we stayed – but with the same hacienda-style accommodations that made us feel at home. The rooms are spacious.  We stayed in a “casita,” which is almost like having your own little home.  Ours was attached to only one other guest casita, so privacy was enhanced.

Casita at Camelback Inn

So, put aside your concerns about rates and revel in the experience.  You could literally stay here and never go anywhere else until ready to leave on your airplane.  Golf, spas, six restaurants, and trails are on the property with additional amenities within a few miles.  The expanded conference center ensures that there will be many people, but the property is spread out over many acres, so you don’t feel crowded.

When I visited, my conference held an event at “Mummy Mountain,” an old west location onsite with old west storefronts and other evocative western props.  It’s a fun place to hang out and is used for everything from convention events to weddings. 

Mummy Mountain - the "Wild West" at Camelback Inn

One of the restaurants is an upscale steak restaurant, BLT Steak, located in almost a dozen major US cities.

Arizona has an abundance of upscale resorts.  Camelback is one I know of and can recommend.

http://www.camelbackinn.com/

Hotel Valley Ho

A venerable hotel that has also undergone a renovation, the Valley Ho is located nearer to the heart of Scottsdale.  First opened in the 1950s, Valley Ho was the place to stay back then with celebrities making it their resort of choice.   

Hotel Valley Ho with trolley

After seeing hard times, the hotel was renovated in 2005.  Décor is now very modern crossed with some of its ‘50s vibes.  The modernized bathrooms are worthy of a modern art museum, and some tubs are, surprisingly, planted in the middle of rooms!

Trader Vic’s and Café Zuzu provide upscale dining experiences.  Trader Vic’s offers a Polynesian/Asian aesthetic with wood-fired oven dishes, wok offerings, curries, and other exotic menu items plus upscale variation of wonton soup and the like.

Café Zuzu is a more “comfort food” style restaurant with special touches serving everything from meatloaf to filet mignon, plus burgers, mac and cheese, vegetarian offerings and seafood.  The vibe is for a younger crowd.

Hotel amenities include a spa, pool, and the nearness to Scottsdale shopping. Rated four-diamond by AAA, it is a fun, convenient place to stay.

http://www.hotelvalleyho.com/

Scottsdale upscale and elegant

A bus stop in Scottsdale - with a cowboy theme

Now, if you’re just visiting Scottsdale for a vacation or conference, that’s another thing.  Scottsdale has some fun diversions and great ways to relax and enjoy our wonderful climate.  Now, if you don’t enjoy really hot (I know, they say, “ but it’s dry heat!”) weather, visiting in June, July and August can be a challenge. But, the dryness really does make the heat more bearable.

In December after living in Arizona for years, I’m finding the 60-ish degree (Fahrenheit) weather chilly.  When I lived in New York, I thought 60 was balmy after the cold of winter and would walk around in shirtsleeves.  It’s all relative – go figure!

Arriving and shopping in Scottsdale

You won’t instantly see the difference between Phoenix and Scottsdale until you hit the “downtown.”  The cachet of a Scottsdale address means that stores that are not an Arizona fixture will locate in Scottsdale. 

Scottsdale has a Nordstrom, Macy’s and most other major brands.  Traveling up the length of Scottsdale Road for miles, retailers are major lures to anyone who loves shopping.   There are national names like Crate & Barrel (I know they’re online, but they actually have a store in Scottsdale!), Barney’s NY, Abercrombie & Fitch, Anthropologie, Urban Outfitters – the list goes on.

H & M - trendy new retailer in Scottsdale

Take the new, trendy transplant H & M that started in Sweden and is now located in 35 markets with 1,800 stores.  When H & M opened on November 4 in Scottsdale, people camped out in line for hours waiting to see the reasonably priced fashion.  They were not disappointed.  The very fashion-forward retailer has adult’s and children’s clothing and accessories – and I didn’t see one item for more than $49.95!  Indeed, most items were less than $30.  For instance, a frilly little girl’s party dress was $24.95. 

However, they seem to have sold much of their merchandise in the larger women’s sizes and there were not many offerings in sizes above a 10.  One of the staffers told me that they carry sizes through 16, but that they had sold out a lot with the holidays. 

I would have taken photos, but a staff person stopped me inside the door and told me that I couldn’t take photos.   There certainly is a very energetic vibe in the store, which carries over to their Web site.  Like a sci-fi movie, part of their Web site has clothing coming at you in a 3-D mode.  When you click on an item it comes up with all of the details.  H & M is impressive.

http://www.hm.com/us/

Tomorrow… More shopping in Scottsdale

We’re back with Wacky Casino Wednesday! NO!  The casinos aren’t wacky, it’s Wednesday that’s wacky!  (Just wanted to clear that up…)

This week we’re featuring a casino that’s been around for a while with a new hotel property.

RADISSON FORT MCDOWELL RESORT & CASINO

Located 24 miles from the Phoenix airport, just south of Fountain Hills, Arizona on highway AZ-87 (Payson) is the home of the Fort McDowell Yavapai Nation.  Although not a name you might be familiar with, the Yavapai were instrumental in forcing Arizona into a gaming compact creating this states tribal casino system.

As I mentioned in my first article last week, the Federal government passed the Indian Gaming Regulatory Act in 1988.  The catch was that each state was responsible for signing contracts between themselves and the tribes who wished to participate in gaming.  Unfortunately, the governor of Arizona was opposed to tribal gaming so signing anything was not going to happen.

Ft. McDowell's Indian commemorating when they asserted their sovereign nation status

Unfortunately for the state, five casinos were already in operation around the state so in a desperate move, the Governor asked the FBI to raid the establishments, including Fort McDowell.

When the FBI loaded up 349 slot machines into trucks they found that they were not going to get too far.  Yavapai members blocked the casino access road with all types of vehicles and stood their ground for three weeks.  The governor finally (and surely reluctantly) signed a compact with the Yavapai.  This in essence created the legalization of Indian gaming in Arizona.

If you want to celebrate with them, May 12^th is a tribal holiday!

GAMBLING

With a 150,000 sq. ft. gaming floor, there are 866 machines, 55 table and poker games, keno, poker, and bingo.

ENTERTAINMENT

Lucky 7 Saloon

Friday & Saturday: 9:00pm-1:00am

Sunday: 4:00pm-8:00pm

Outdoor Concerts

Throughout the summer outdoor concerts are presented with nationally known entertainers

FOOD

Fort McDowell Casino Dining

Cottonwood Café: Open Daily – Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner Featuring: Asian, Italian, Mexican, Prime Ribs, Sandwiches

Redrock Buffet: Open Daily – Friday-Sunday Buffet with “All you can eat” Crab Legs $14.50

New York New York Deli: Sandwiches / Pizza $5.00 – $12.95

Noodles Sushiya: Sushi Bar in the non-smoking area of the casino $2.95-$7.95

Outside The Casino

Ah-Ha-Qwah-Ja Pool Bar and Café: Beverage & light entrees.
We-Ko-Pa Grill (We-Ko-Pa Golf Clubhouse):  Open daily serving breakfast & lunch.

HOTEL

Radisson Hotel at Fort McDowell Casino

In December 2005, Radisson opened its property next to the casino.  It’s interesting that although it is next to the casino, the Radisson is not physically connected to it or to the conference center that forms a buffer between the two buildings.  Fortunately, the southwestern desert climate makes inclement weather a rarity so even on a brisk winter evening the walk is invigorating.

- 248 rooms (4-star resort)

- Sleep Number Beds available

- $10 in casino play with free Fort McDowell Fortune Club membership

- Amethyst Spa

- Ahnala Mesquite Room restaurant

- Wassaja Conference Center (25,000 sq. ft.

- Heated outdoor pool/Jacuzzi

- We-Ko-Pa Golf Club (two, 18-hole courses)

http://www.radissonfortmcdowellresort.com

http://www.fortmcdowellcasino.com

http://fortmcdowelldestination.com

Tomorrow – We’ll take a quick look at what will soon be the newest, and largest, Resort Casino to open in Arizona.

 
During the daytime, you can typically walk around in shirtsleeves, soak in the sunshine and enjoy the wide-open spaces. The epitome of the southwest, there is still evidence of Phoenix’s territorial attitude, mixed in with some spectacular scenery.

 
And, if you decide to move beyond the Phoenix area, there are some quirky and distinctive cities to visit. There’s Prescott, Flagstaff, Tombstone, Sedona, Tuscon, and other cities, each with its own vibe and ambiance.

 
Nature was very generous to the state of Arizona because, in addition to the Grand Canyon, Arizona’s most known scenic asset, there are amazing sights almost around every corner. Some spring times (this varies by how much rain the “winter” months bring), there are profuse displays of roadside color with purples, golds and oranges so stunning that a visitor was shocked to see it in the desert.

Blooming in the desert

We do have cacti – lots of them. The picturesque saguaro with arms extending at strange angles skyward, as well as other prickly desert plants, are a revelation. You don’t want to cuddle, but you do want to stare for hours at the scenery.

Saguaro - like sentinels guarding the desert

While the sandstone and earth colors of Arizona can be breathtaking in themselves – see Sedona, for instance  – other colors and scenery can be quite memorable.

For a person who grew up on the east coast of the US, Phoenix and the other cities of Arizona were quite a revelation. Outside of the urban areas, there is openness – wide-open spaces. There is a sense of space that a suburban person is not used to seeing. Traveling less than three hours in any direction, a new environment opens up.

 
For the next few weeks, we’ll offer a flavor of sights and scenes in Arizona. On Wednesdays, we’ll take you to  casinos (see our background on casinos this week) and visit sights that we ourselves recommend. We promise to share the good, the bad and – well, there isn’t a lot of ugly – of what we know of Arizona.

 
Reactions appreciated! If you have a legitimate experience of Arizona you’d like to share, we’ll consider posting it.

 
Happy sunshine!

Come back tomorrow to arrive at Phoenix’s Sky Harbor Airport