DAY 15

ST. ANDREWS

FORE!

DUCK!

GET OUT OF THE …. WAY!

OOPS! SORRRRY!

It’s time to hop a golf cart over to the birthplace of golf over 600 years ago, St. Andrews.

Actually, birthplace is not quite accurate. Golf in some form was probably played in another country before it came to Scotland, but hey, Scotland just had a better marketing department!And, it doesn’t hurt when the King starts hitting that little white ball around the links.

And don’t forget to get out of your cart, because at St. Andrews you walk, not ride the 18.
Although the old course at St. Andrews is the most famous, there are actually six other public courses maintained by the St. Andrews Links Trust, including the nine hole Balgove perfect for families, beginners and even children.
www.standrews.org.uk

But wait, that’s not all!

You say you don’t want to put on a nearly year long waiting list to play the old course? You say it’s too intimidating to play where some of the best golfers in the world have played? Never fear! There are over 40 other golf courses just in the Kingdom of Fife area around St. Andrews. They cater to all skills and geographical variances.

There is even a 9 hole, “old school” hickory-only, Kingarrock, course where you’ll be given original hickory clubs, an original canvas and leather bag with a Spoon, Driving Iron, Mashie, Niblick and a Putter.

A Niblick?? A Mashie? You’re serious … right? Sounds like an order of giblets and mashed potatoes.

Settle down, all you golfers around the world, it’s just a joke! I myself am a golfer … with a sense of humor!

www.kingarrock.com

British Golf Museum

Gee, I wonder if there is a Golf Museum in town? And, I wonder if it’s near the Royal & Ancient Club House?

If you like the relatively non-violent sport of golf, and who doesn’t – The British Golf Museum is the consummate look at golf from its inception to current day.

March to October
9.30 – 5.30 Monday – Saturday
10.00 – 5.00 Sunday
November to March
10.00 to 4.00 Monday – Sunday
www.britishgolfmuseum.co.uk/

St. Andrews (Town)

Just like the golf course, this is a walking town. Park you car and hit the pavement, or the beach, or around, or even on the course on Sunday when the old course is closed to golfers.

The following link is a walking/cycling map of the town:

www.st-andrews.ac.uk/media/cyclemap.pdf

As with many cities and towns in Great Britain and Europe, driving around is not your best bet. Not many parking spots and high prices, if you do find one. St. Andrews has a free Park & Ride bus that shuttles you around town from the free car parks on the west side of town. (Key word, FREE)

University of St. Andrews

The oldest university in Scotland, established in 1413, is actually scattered throughout the town. Although many of the buildings are quite old, the education is 1st class and modern.

New dorms, and a new medical science building are currently in development, or under construction.

There are also other museums, castle and cathedral ruins, walks along the beach and just the chance to soak in the small town (17,000 pop., with another 9,000 students) atmosphere.

www.visit-standrews.co.uk

Edinburgh – St. Andrews
Distance: 49.8 miles
Time: 1 hr 27 min

If you drive, take the A90 over the Forth Bridge (toll), and connect to the M90. At junction 7, take the A91 to St Andrews.

By Train
Unfortunately, St Andrews does not have its own train station, but it is possible to get off at Leuchars station and go St Andrews by bus. This should take about 10 minutes.

Rosslyn Chapel

Note: We had planned to drop down south of Edinburgh a few miles to see Rosslyn Chapel. This is where the “ending” of the DaVinci Code was filmed, but it is currently under renovation.

The scaffolding that surrounds the building and the metal roof to help dry out the stonework (should be removed by the end of 2009 or early 2010) doesn’t do anything for the chapel’s historic appeal.

The renovation will continue through July 2010. But if you would decide to go, it’s only seven miles south of Edinburgh and a bus runs from the centre of the city.

www.lothianbuses.com

Note: No photography is allowed within the Chapel (unless you are a movie crew filming a blockbuster film …)

www.rosslynchapel.org.uk

Well, that’s it!

Next stop will be the Edinburgh airport and a shuttle down to Heathrow for a plane back to the United States.

Personally, I could stay another two weeks. Southern Scotland, more of the northern and western islands, and, a few more days in London.

CURRENCY ALERT!! – TRIP ALERT!!! SURLY AIRLINE CREW ALERT!!!!

Right now, the pound is continuing to go higher than the dollar compared to when I first started planning this trip. I have seen it go up steadily, although it is currently holding.

The airlines aren’t making life any easier these days either. And, my air carrier of choice (British Airways) is on the brink of stupidity by asking its employees to work for up to a month without pay. Of course the CEO said that he would work a month without pay … That seems apples to apples fair ….

Or, NOT!

If that were to go into effect that should be a fun ride across the pond …

“Excuse me, may I have …” (Deathly glare from Flight Attendant)

“OKAY! I’ll shut up now! It’s only 8 more hours until we land.”

So, I am weighing the pros and cons. We just might be going somewhere else this fall…

On a misty morning, I waited eagerly for Catalina Island to become visible in the distance.  The Catalina Express shuttle from San Pedro was fairly full, with tourists, the high school lacrosse team and other locals keeping busy during the one-and-one-quarter hour trip.  

As the picturesque harbor came to view, I saw houses terraced into the hillsides and boats anchored in a quiet mooring.  The vista was quaint and charming.  An unusual round building, the Casino, also dominated the coast. 

A 1950s song by the Four Preps called Catalina “the island of romance.”  I wanted to see for myself. (If you’re seeing an unusual looking building with boats in the harbor at the top of this blog, you’re seeing something of Catalina.)

Getting started

What Catalina Island does best is to provide a peaceful interlude from the hustle of the U.S. mainland.   Kayaking, snorkeling, casino tours, a one-movie nightly showing at the casino, shopping, inland tours, semi-submersible water rides, parasailing, horseback riding, golf, botanical garden, friendly islanders and great seafood provide varied possibilities for all tourists.

The City of Avalon, one square mile surrounding the harbor, serves as the base for most activities.  In some ways reminiscent of a New England fishing village, Avalon has kept the charm and colorful look while adding numerous tourist amenities. Cars are forbidden and golf carts, trolleys and feet are the modes of transportation. From a year-round population of 4,000, the island’s population can swell to as much as 15,000 during high tourist season.

Two major tour companies, Discovery and Adventure, have prominent offices so anyone can easily book excursions.  From less than one hour to an entire day, there are adventures for all.

The Wrigley family, of chewing gum fame, has had ownership of the island for nearly a century.  They are the driving force behind the Casino and much of the major development.  Entertaining tours of the Casino, which is not a place for gaming, are offered daily of the “art deco treasure,” with Chuck Liddell guiding and answering questions. The Casino’s acoustically-perfect movie theater was the inspiration for Radio City Music Hall in New York City and crowds of youth came from the mainland for dances that lasted until the wee hours.  Surprisingly, the large, round structure has the domed movie theater in the lower portion of the building with the ballroom above with balconies.  Ahead of its time, since no elevators service the building, ramps lead to the upper floor so handicapped access has been assured from the building’s beginning. The support is part of the outer walls so no unsightly columns interrupt views. On the Casino’s ground floor, there is a small museum with a collection about the Island’s earlier days, including Chicago Cubs memorabilia from their spring training on Catalina from 1921-1951.

Places to stay

Charming small hotels offer comfortable respites from the day’s adventures. Hotel Vista Del Mar is a boutique hotel with only 17 rooms.  Two oceanfront rooms overlook the harbor, with private patios and luxurious accommodations, complete with double Jacuzzi tubs, fireplaces and understated, modern décor.  Other rooms are equally lovely but minus the Jacuzzi and ocean views.  A complimentary bottle of wine was offered, freshly-baked cookies were available nightly and a continental breakfast with juice was in the lobby each morning.  The staff was professional and genuinely concerned for each guest’s needs.  The only drawback is that there is no elevator to help a guest get up the 29 steps to the entrance. Otherwise, I have no complaints or criticisms of this hotel – a rarity in this age of poor service and corner-cutting in facilities.   (www.hotel-vistadelmar.com)

For literary-minded visitors who really want to get away, the Zane Grey Pueblo Hotel, high up on the hillside, has breathtaking views.  The 16 rooms do not have telephones, clocks or televisions, so true serenity reigns.  A courtesy taxi from the dock and available several times a day makes it possible for those who are not mountain goats to get down to the harbor and shopping area. (www.zanegreypueblohotel.com)

Other hotels are scattered about the harbor and hillside with equally wonderful views. The streets off the harbor are filled with vacation rentals waiting for visitors.

Things to do

Tour companies provide sightseeing and active adventures for every taste.  A two-hour inland bus tour in a cab-over vehicle brought 52 of us on a picturesque ride up winding roads to the “Airport in the Sky.”  While negotiating the “S” curves, our tour guide Freddie provided a running monologue of snappy patter, historical information and groan-worthy puns.  We were able to see a bison up close and take photos.  In 1924, one of the many film crews making movies on the island imported 14 buffalo.  When it was time to leave, they couldn’t round them up, so the shaggy creatures became permanent residents, with the herd expanding exponentially.  Perhaps in a nod to their co-habitants, many restaurants have buffalo burgers on their menus. 

Semi-submersible and glass bottom boat tours are available to an area just beyond the harbor. As the “subs” travel in waters with depths up to 77 feet, tourists sit below decks while the crew feeds the fish. Colorful Garibaldi, looking like giant goldfish; Opal Eyes; Blacksmith, Calico and other fish are clearly visible through the windows and can be seen converging in a true feeding frenzy.  The giant bladder kelp, sea palm and other sea plants make it an eerie, fascinating underwater view.

For more intrepid types, Descanso Beach Club and other providers have private and group kayak tours and rentals as well as snorkeling available.  Tours from two hours to all day allow visitors to travel beyond Avalon harbor. Fishing boat trips are also available.

Catalina Island Golf Course, the “oldest Golf Course west of the Rockies,” is 9-holes and was the site of one of Tiger Woods’ earliest successes, when at age five, he played in a junior tournament.

Shopping includes the usual tee-shirts, postcards and such, but some shops in the Crescent Street area offer glass, clothing, tiles and other medium. Hours change depending on time of year and whether the cruise ships are in.  Note that prices for sundries and other items reflect the fact that everything must be shipped in to Catalina.  For example, a tube of “Chapstick” was $2.29.

Food, glorious food

Since Catalina is surrounded by ocean, it is natural that seafood is plentiful and excellent.   A great seafood restaurant is Armstrong’s, which overlooks the harbor. British ladies were overheard praising Armstrong’s as having the best fish and chips they had ever had. High praise indeed! An appetizer of crab cakes was not the usual breading-stuffed globs with just a bit of crabmeat.  Instead, they were thin pancakes of just crabmeat, nothing else, succulent and fresh.  Other seafood for our party was well-prepared and tasty. When it was time for dessert, we had no room.  Service was friendly, helpful and efficient.  Seagulls, swooping down near tables, added to the laid back atmosphere.

For a retro, ‘50s diner-style meal, try “Eat at Joe’s “ on Crescent Avenue, facing the harbor.  Service was welcoming, the menu had sandwiches and comfort foods, and the tab didn’t break the bank.  The checkered linoleum, red booths and beer on tap are reminiscent of a much simpler time.

Other restaurants are scattered about the harbor, the green pleasure pier (which juts into the harbor), and on side streets. Most are casual dress.

After three glorious days on Catalina, I looked longingly at the harbor as I boarded the shuttle to return.  I really didn’t want to leave.

Resources

General –

www.catalina.com

www.catalinachamber.com/