On a recent trip to Wilmington, North Carolina, we took our time exploring the sites from the boardwalk that looked out over the Intracoastal Waterway.  Putting one foot in front of the other, we received the benefits of an energetic walk as we saw the USS North Carolina, numerous boats, and many shops and restaurants.

One of the many historic homes in Wilmington

Wilmington has a historic charm, which we were able to enjoy as we saw the riverboats that ply the river offering dinner cruises and sightseeing tours.

One of the many small malls in Wilmington

Riverboats ply on the Intracoastal Waterway on Wilmington

So, hiking can be a hike in the wilds, but a stroll on the boardwalk can also meet your requirement for energy use.

With a population (at last count) of over 13,000, they are a giant metropolis in comparison to Strawberry and Pine, the neighbor burgs we visited the same day.  There is more of everything, but the scenic backdrop of the mountains gives everything the “aah” factor.  You can relax in Payson.  It’s that kind of place.

There is shopping along the main street, including the Swiss Village shops which a resident we met at the Natural Bridge told us not to miss. We missed it, because we weren’t there for shopping. We just wanted to see what it was like for someone visiting and looking for scenery.

Things to do – besides shopping

Green Valley Park is a central recreational place where we saw people fishing, picnicking and just relaxing.

Fishermen do their thing at the scenic Green Valley Park

Green Valley Park - another view

Nearby, we saw a statue honoring firemen in front of the Rim Country Museum, which also had a reproduction of the Zane Grey Cabin (the Western writer who had lived in Rim Country).

With heavily treed areas in Rim Country, firemen are honored with this statue, acknowledging their part in keeping the citizens safe.

We drove around some more and located three golf courses, the location for their annual rodeo days, and the Mazatzal Casino and Hotel.   The casino, run by the Tonto Apache Indian Community, was a typical Arizona casino with all of the gaming action most people look for – slots, bingo, etc.  The hotel seemed well-kept and attractive, but we didn’t get to see a room.

Mazatzal Casino and Hotel - with another large wing not pictured

Dinner at Macky’s

When we finished driving around, we figured we were due for either an early dinner or a very late lunch. We headed to Macky’s , which had gotten good reviews online.  Although it was only around 4 PM, the staff treated us with great attention, like they always have people showing up at unusual hours.  The menu was voluminous, with everything from burgers to full dinners.  Mostly everything was in the $7.95 to $12.95 range.  I opted for a burger, but I didn’t make it easy for my very friendly waitress. (Sorry, I forgot her name!)  There were so many burgers with very exciting combinations, but what I wanted wasn’t any of those.  So, she gave me my guacamole on my bacon cheeseburger and we were both happy.  And unlike some restaurants, where they act like they’re being put out and doing you a favor, they were very nice about it.  My husband had the Philly cheesesteak and pronounced it “good.”

Macky's Grill

Did I mention that they are a Western-themed restaurant?  They have western music playing, interesting carvings on each booth, and even have the theme in the restrooms.  (No, I did not take a photo in the restroom!)

Carving on the booths is unique

We finished our meal with their “Southwest Cheesecake,” which had a combination of cheesecake in fried tortillas with ice cream, strawberries, and enormous clouds of whipped cream.  The cheesecake, nestled inside of the tortillas was warm and rich, was definitely enough for two.  It was unique and worth having. We were polite about sharing, but we ate every drop!

Southwest Cheesecake - sooo good!

Macky’s also has an outdoor patio and obviously likes to make guests feel welcomed.  We did!

So, we ended our visit to Payson with full bellies and glad we’d stopped.  As a place to vacation, it is really a quiet haven with outdoor activities as the central focus.

Find out more  at  http://www.paysonrimcountry.com/ – there are inns, small hotels, RV parks and other places to stay in if  you plan a visit.

Next up … We visit Scottsdale, AZ

Strawberry

Strawberry, charmingly named, has a much smaller population (in 2007 – only 1,000-plus!) and has a few amenities.  According to http://www.city-data.com/city/Strawberry-Arizona.html, Strawberry residents are older, richer and have more expensive homes than the median Arizona population.

One tourist magnet with some charm is the Strawberry School, the “oldest standing school in Arizona.”  According to a representative of the Pine/Strawberry Archeological and Historical Society, the school was almost razed when a developer bought a large tract in the area.  A local informed the crew that was about to raze the school as they were removing the roof, that the building was the old school house.  The developer decided to spare the school and the roof was rebuilt.

Strawberry School - the "Oldest Standing School in Arizona "

The original building’s walls were constructed in 1885 with logs that surround a one-room area dominated with a wood-burning stove.  The historical society rep commented that the old wooden desks were not the original furnishings.  Instead, tables were used.

Closed in 1916, the school is a reminder of what schools were like a century ago.  However, the furnishings were considered more opulent than was normal with wainscoting, wallpaper, slate on the wall as a blackboard, a world globe, an organ, a dictionary and a clock.  The school was also a meeting location and social center.

Interior of the one-room Strawberry School

For many in the area, the school was part of their heritage, so residents were integral in having it declared a Historical Monument in 1981.

There is no charge to view the school, but a donation is requested.

Pine

Another small town with a lot of activity the weekend we visited is Pine.  Again, as in Strawberry, the median age and income levels are higher than the median for Arizona.  The population tallies just under 2,000. Can we say, “retirement community”?

An arts and crafts fair was sprawled out along the road as well as in a community hall.  The variety seemed to be strongly focused on food.  However, we enjoyed the crafts and most especially our chat with Bob Gleason, a basket weaver, who was weaving as we spoke.

Bob Gleason weaves baskets right in front of your eyes.

Bob is from Phoenix, but enjoys demonstrating his craft, which he finds relaxing and has recently begun more elaborate baskets.  The colors and craftsmanship are top notch.  The materials are rattan and can be extremely light, but sturdy.  Bob’s business, with the URL of bobsbasketcase.intuitwebsites.com, (602-317-0644), shows he has a sense of humor.  He has to with some of the dumb questions that people ask – “Who makes the baskets? –He does – “I’m making one now!” (I’m sure he’d like to tell people to pay attention.)

Another crafter, Ron Lepore with Melted Bottles (928-443-8865), uses recycled bottles to make very attractive serving pieces with knives attached.  Great for serving cheese, crackers, fruit and other edibles, the pieces show the whimsy of the bottles he recovers from peoples’ discards.

Ron Lepore exhibited his recycled "Melted Bottles" - great for serving and gifts

Other items sold included emu meat, quilts, and other attractive art.

When we finished, we stopped at the Gingerbread House for some ice cream.  At the old-fashioned style soda fountain, the flavors were great (I had black cherry cordial and my husband had cookies and cream).

Gingerbread House - ice cream treats and collectibles

After we ate every bite of the ice cream and waffle cone, we headed to Payson.

Next week… We’ll give you a short tour of Payson, home of rodeos and other pastimes.

Coming soon!   We will be launching a new site for all of  you Couch Potatoes out there – who want to get up and get going!  More soon…

Grand Canyon - just a very small part of the vast view

A trip to the Grand Canyon is a “must see” when you travel out West in the USA.  Arizona recognizes it as one of its finest attractions by designating itself the “Grand Canyon State” on license plates.Most people drive or come by bus to see nature’s show.  It is a drive from Flagstaff (80 miles) or Williams (59 miles), but can also be reached by the Grand Canyon Railway from Williams, a fun trip.

Upon arrival during the main summer tourist season, expect to park in the lot at the South Rim and use shuttle buses to get you to the viewing areas.

Mather Point is a focal point for viewing, but anywhere along the South Rim Trail is a great place to settle in for views.  (I found Mather Point to be overwhelming with tourists who were all jockeying for position to get “the” photo shot of all time.)

Grand Canyon view

Calming walking along the paved path the skirts the rim, I found spectacular views, including some views of the Colorado River ‘way down below. Close to dusk, we were edging down the South Rim trailhead, just trying to get photos from different vantage points when we were stopped by a Parks Ranger who told us we could not go any further at that time of day.  They are protective of people, since the path can be treacherous.  People do take mule rides down the trails, but late in the day, they keep people in “civilization.”

Grand Canyon with Colorado River way below

Grand Canyon at dusk

Food and Lodging

There are restaurants at the Park’s South Rim, but they are of the hewn wood and rustic variety.  There are landmarks like the El Tovar Hotel that have been around for over a century (which was refurbished a dozen years ago), as well as Bright Angel Lodge, Kachina and Thunderbird Lodges, Maswik Lodge, and Yavapai Lodge.  All of the previous have some form of dining facility.

If you are the intrepid sort and plan the strenuous hike to the Grand Canyon’s floor and need a rest stop, Phantom Ranch is the respite for those travelers.  (Reserve meals before you attempt the trip.) We did not attempt this long hike, which we understood could only be accessed by mule, hiking or river rafting.

Grand Canyon at nightfall

We recommend that you allow a day to hike around the various vantage points, take zillions of photos, and visit the various historic hotels for rest stops, food and souvenirs.

While in the Area…

We were impressed with the Grand Canyon, but if you are in the Southwest, we also highly recommend a side trip to Bryce Canyon and Zion National Park in Southern Utah.  Canyonlands is also vast and amazing, as well as Arches National Park. (See our other blogs on these national parks.  Just enter the name in the “search” box.)

Our favorite? – I’ve been twice – is Bryce Canyon.

http://www.nps.gov/grca/

In some giant US cities, they build up with multi-storied skyscrapers. But, with the vast spaces available in Arizona, they have built out and even have had height restrictions on how high buildings can be built.

So, welcome to Phoenix.  Spread out and still in the desert.

Saguaro cacti and mountains are a short ride from the hustle and bustle

The convoluted routes

In recent years, the road system has been improved with “loop” routes that circle the built up cities and allow travelers to get places more quickly.   If you want to travel to the more northerly areas of Phoenix, take the 101 loop to Scottsdale, North Phoenix, Glendale and Peoria.  The “101” also connects to the north-south Interstate Route 17, which has recently been widened to four lanes in the northern segment. The 101 also connects to Interstate 10, which wiggles all around and, at times, going west when it is really heading north, etc.

Previously, getting out of town to Sedona and other points north has been a nightmare, but with the widened area, that is improved.  That does not stop (note – STOPPED – totally) the occasional road stoppage as when there were brush fires near the road and traffic was stopped for significant chunks of time.

The completed loop 202 allows traffic to flow more freely in the southeastern part of the “Valley,” connecting travelers to the 101, Route 60 (east/west road) and Interstate 10.

So, what I’m saying is that traffic issues can still be problematic.  Avoid traveling on major interstates, if at all possible, during rush hour.  On some of the arterials, two or more people in a vehicle can take advantage of “HOV” – high occupancy vehicle – lanes and move along faster than ordinary mortals.

Downtown Phoenix

Why travel around in the Phoenix area?

Well, for one thing, there are lots of things to see and do, spread out in many directions.  As a resident of the area, we don’t always go to the tourist spots, but we often go to the different extremes.

East

We have enjoyed the Boyce Thompson Arboretum  – out east – in Superior several times.  Route 60 will get you there for a great view of desert plants, both especially cultivated and native.  It’s worth the drive, both for the scenery and the respite from the hustle and bustle.

http://arboretum.ag.arizona.edu/index.html

Cacti at Boyce Thompson Arboretum - one of many displays

There are indications that copper mining is reviving in the area as well.

North

Taking the loop 101 to Scottsdale or points further north like Cave Creek and Carefree (don’t you just love that name!) will get you some culture, laid back cowboy and arts environments, and open desert.

By the pool at the Carefree Resort

West

Before you hit the open road on the way to Los Angeles on Interstate 10, you’ll be able to see Glendale, noted for antiques and their bead museum, Peoria, Surprise, Goodyear and Buckeye.

http://www.beadmuseumaz.org/

Way out west is the Wigwam Resort, an interesting throwback to a gracious cowboy era. Originally a location for Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company execs to vacation, since the company had bought land to cultivate for cotton, the Litchfield Park area was ‘way ‘way out in the country back almost a century ago.

http://www.wigwamresort.com/about-us.html

South

In the south Valley, although many communities have grown up in the last 10-20 years, there are still some rural areas where they cultivate cotton, raise cattle and dig for copper (part of the 5 “C’s that made Arizona famous – Cattle, Citrus, Climate, Copper, and Cotton).   On an occasional day, you might even be able to see the wild horses for which the Wild Horse Pass area near I10 is named.

Cattle - a major "crop" in Arizona

Why visit Phoenix?

Despite the bad publicity that the misguided “SB1070” law has created for Arizona, Phoenix is still a great place to visit.  If you’re used to the cramped quarters of most large US cities, the Phoenix area can be a revelation.   There are still wide-open spaces, desert landscaping (original, not cultivated), and a sense of peace with fabulous sunsets to enthrall you.

Sunset in Arizona

This time of year, travelers can take advantage of great hotel rates, since the weather typically tops 100 degrees (Fahrenheit) until close to October.  You won’t notice the heat, unless you decide to sit by a pool, but then you can take a dip so it won’t matter. Otherwise, air-conditioning reigns supreme – you might even need a light wrap inside!

On my first trip prior to moving to the area, I came out in the middle of June with temperatures around 115 degrees.  Even with my 3-piece business suit, I fell in love with the climate.  I’ve been healthier in Phoenix because of the infamous dry climate (humidity is typically less than 20%).

Although I’m not a paid tourist bureau rep, I’d suggest you take a trip to Phoenix.  It is a great place to unwind.

Saguaro on a slope

Join us next week as we surprise you with more about Arizona and the Southwest

With a population of over 200,000, Boise still seems like an accessible and people-friendly place to live, raise children, work, and enjoy leisure time.

Boise Zoo entrance

Within a few blocks, there is a lovely park with a rose garden, a zoo, both a historical and art museum, an impressive university campus, a river, and a very moving memorial.  The city has a 25-mile green belt, so there is space to breathe and stretch, as you walk along the river.

Rose Garden in Boise

We spent an afternoon trekking around, just walking and seeing the city.  We left our car behind and took in the sights, which we’ll share with you –

Idaho Historical Museum

After a quick visit to scope out the library, usually one of our first stops, we walked through the Julia Davis Park where we saw the Idaho Historical Museum, the Discovery Center (an interactive science museum) and the Boise Art Museum.  As we passed the Art Museum, they were setting up for a private party on the rear lawn.

The Municipal Rose Garden provided a few eye appealing minutes as we walked through the profusion of roses in bloom.

We walked by the Boise Zoo, but they were going to be closing soon, so we continued on.

Morrison Center for the Performing Art at Boise State

We crossed a bridge leading to Boise State University, where the architecture was modern and appealing.  In this day of budget cuts, it was good to see the campus, obviously well kept.

Idaho Anne Frank Human Rights Memorial

Our last stop before we headed to dinner was the Idaho Anne Frank Human Rights Memorial, a sculptural center with waterfalls, interactive exhibits, and evocative statements showing the evils of war from a human perspective.  It was a somber and moving experience to read the words of those whose lives have been less fortunate, the innocent victims of war.

Another child victim of war speaks

If you are in the northwest, don’t miss Boise.  When we have more time, we’ll be back to visit …

Come back next week for a visit to an impressive dam.

Yellowstone National Park southern entrance

Getting there

Entering Yellowstone from the south via Grand Tetons (more on that park another week) we drove in on Route 89/191/297.  We had paid for a park pass at Grand Teton that was good for both parks for seven days.  ($25 in our case, an annual pass is $50)

In late May, as we headed past Lewis Lake, the water was still frozen and it was still cold outside, as evidenced by our need to use the car’s defroster.  According to the map, the road on which we entered was actually closed until mid-May.  Apparently, only the two east and one north entrances are open year round.

First stop: Old Faithful and more

Everyone has heard about Old Faithful, so we decided we’d see that iconic natural feature first.  We could just imagine how busy the area would be in the middle of summer, with a big parking area very crowded in late May!  Heading in to the drive to Old Faithful, we saw several buffalo on the roadside, but couldn’t stop because of traffic.  We regretted not being able to spend time viewing the bison, but more than made up for that later on…more on that in another blog.

We followed the path to Old Faithful once we’d parked and found low benches in a giant semi-circle surrounding the area where Old Faithful spews once every- approximately – 70 minutes.  A posted sign said that the next spouting would be at approximately 3:57 PM, plus or minus 10 minutes.  The Parks Service is very clear that they are predicting, no scheduling.

We had a lot of time to spare, so we wandered about, getting a feel for the area.  In the distance, many small geysers seemed to be steaming, but on the particular day we were there, another geyser, Castle Geyser, seemed to be spewing and throwing giant clouds of steam into the air northwest of Old Faithful.  We were informed by the Park Ranger that Castle Geyser is unpredictable.  However, unpredictable as it may have been, it was more amazing than we expected.  Especially when…

Old Faithful- faithful, but maybe not as impressive as others

We finally saw Old Faithful do its performance. After a long 45 minutes of little gassy clouds, almost at the end of the predicted time, the geyser began foaming slightly and then raised a cloud of steam into the air, before calming down.  With Castle Geyser going off over 10 times as high in the distance, Old Faithful was a disappointment to everyone. You could tell because the end of the quick time of eruption and the almost instantaneous departure of the crowd made it apparent that no one was entranced.

Old Faithful does its thing (click here for video)

The numbers in the Park newsletter for Old Faithful were more impressive as they state that Old Faithful averages heights of 130 feet in the air and spews out between 3,700 and 8,400 gallons of water per eruption. The water temperature at the vent at the start of eruption is 204 degrees F. (95.6 C)

We were spoiled by Castle Geyser’s spectacular performance!

Castle Geyser - less often, but more spectacular!

So, take a look at the photos and picture yourself surrounded by geysers steaming and spewing in many places around the park and, then, you can understand why Yellowstone was originally called after early explorer John Colter’s observation,”Colter’s Hell.”

More in next week’s blog on Yellowstone.  Anyone who can get there will find it an amazing place. Plan to spend a couple of days or more to see the many sights.

WPA sidewalk stamp

Near University Boulevard a few blocks from the campus, a sidewalk marking caught our eye.  “USA–WPA-1938” was stamped into the cement sidewalk.  The WPA – the Works Progress Administration – was a program of the 1930s that put people to work during the “Great Depression” (as opposed to our current depression – small “d”).  Many public works projects were accomplished during that time.  The quality of the workmanship is obviously exceptional for it to survive like new for 70-plus years as it has.

"A" mountain - Sentinel Peak -in the distance

From a parking garage in the UA campus, “A” mountain is off in the distance.  “A” Mountain, also called Sentinel Peak, is nearly 3,000 feet high, and was created from volcanic rock.  From its location a few miles west of the city, it offers a sweeping view of the Tucson valley area, but has become somewhat of a hangout.  Suggestion: only go in the daytime.

Also, if you like to see swanky resort hotels and great scenic views, head west, as well, to the JW Marriott Starr Pass Resort.  My first reaction: the architecture of the side facing the valley looked rather like a hospital, albeit a well-heeled hospital.  The scenic vista is spectacular, though, with Tucson stretched off in the distance.

JW Marriott Starr Pass Resort

Hotel lobby entrance

Tucson Valley view from west

Nearby, hillsides of saguaro dot the landscape. Certain areas of Arizona just have proliferations of these amazing, spiny flora.  They can live for hundreds of years, outliving humans.  With their arms stretched skyward, they are an inspiring sight.  When, birds peck out a hole for a nesting area, the holes are evident and, later, when the cactus tries to heal, it creates a “boot”–shaped structure that is much prized for decoration.

Saguaro on West Tucson hillside

Join us next week as we enjoy a Mexican feast.

We hopped on at the stop just down the block from the U of A main gate.  The old trolley, originally from Belgium, had some signs that were definitely not in English.  There were little counters between the seats, harkening back to a more gracious life in Europe where the trolley originated.

Trolley Sign - exit in 2 languages

Old Pueblo Trolley - this car built in Belgium

Since all but one seat was occupied, my gallant husband indicated that I should take the seat.  I was grateful.

The sign stated that the trolley had a 50-person capacity, which included SRO.

As we climbed on, one of the two conductors asked for our twenty-five cent fares (Sundays is only 25 cents per person!).  Since it was right before St. Paddy’s Day, they were both dressed in green-sparkly hats and other green accoutrements.

Everyone seemed in a festive spirit as we headed down the street.  The homes we whisked by were nearly a century old, bungalow-type houses that, for the most part, have been kept nicely through the years.

20th century bungalow along University Boulevard

As we headed around the trolley track’s curve, the street changed from residential to a more retail-commercial neighborhood.  The festive colors of many of the shops were certainly not boring!  The names of the shops were also inventive with some very eye-catching signs.  Stores are unique, one-of-a-kind places where you can just imagine finding some vintage 60s psychedelic clothes. Fourth Avenue shops definitely do not fit the modern image of commercial stores, but they have a funky charm of their own.

Shops along Fourth Avenue

Upbeat, funky Goodwill on Fourth Avenue

Then, a new crew of conductors came aboard as we stopped.  To our surprise, we found out we were at the end of the line!  The online map showing the trolley route has not been changed to reflect that they no longer go all the way under the underpass to Congress and back.  Stopping after only about six blocks was a disappointment.  The money we paid for the “round trip” was only $1, so we did not find the investment too extensive.

We shifted to the other side of the trolley. With enough seats for us both to be seated, we now saw the other side of the street going back to the trolley’s route near the University.  Many campus hangouts dot the south side of University Boulevard, but there was almost an eerie emptiness, since we were visiting during spring break.

Frog & Firkin, campus hangout

The Old Pueblo Trolley is a short, but fun excursion while you’re in Tucson.  Although there is a slightly higher fee on Friday night and Saturday, when they also operate, it is a non-profit organization, so you can’t be grudge the fee for the experience.

The trolley volunteers clearly love their efforts and the experience is just out of the ordinary, so it is an attraction worth considering.

http://www.oldpueblotrolley.org

Visit later this week for a view of some other Tucson scenes.

Even in 1924 when Ben Warner opened his new Hotel and General Store, pies weren’t the attraction.

It must have been something, though, as Hollywood notables such as Tom Mix and Jean Harlow stayed there along with miners who worked the gold and silver mines in the nearby Bradshaw Mountains.

Place for pies - Rock Springs Cafe

But it wasn’t until just a little over 30 years ago that the Rock Springs Café started selling pies.   Baked fresh daily, they reported to have sold over 50,000 in 2007.  You don’t even have to be in Arizona, as their online store is available for placing your order for delivery (except cream pies).

Although we had seen the café on numerous trips to and from northern Arizona from the Phoenix area, we finally decided to stop by on our way back from Cottonwood.  Just off of I-17 a few miles south of Black Canyon City, it doesn’t necessarily look like a place you would search out.  But once inside, it’s a cross between a large tourist gift shop and a Cracker Barrel restaurant, but with a lot more history.

Rock Springs Cafe dining area

Antique pie case - new pies

With over 20 pies by the slice or available whole, you have a selection of the usual suspects in the cream and fruit department along with some specialty selections.  The latter includes a Jack Daniels Pecan (and it’s not named for the chef …).  The Jack Daniels is their specialty and most in demand.

Gifts and doodads in the central area

Once you enter the main doors, a central area separates the café from the large saloon. The café menu features steaks, chicken, Mexican, chili and even breakfast entrees.  At the back of the central area is where you can buy whole pies.  Large glass door refrigerated cases show off the boxed fruit pies and the huge cream pies.

We tried a slice of pie each as we had eaten lunch not too long before.  Personally, I wasn’t overly impressed, but that doesn’t make it a bad piece of pie.  There was something impressive about sitting in this historical, one of a kind location that just doesn’t  happen at those national chain “famous pie” places.

Location: 35769 S. Old Black Canyon Highway, Rock Springs, AZ

Interstate 17 Exit 242

Hours:Sun-Thu 7am-9pm, Fri-Sat 7am-10pm 

http://www.rockspringscafe.com/