Head over there now!  (I’ll wait!) http://hiking.forthecouchpotato.com

Take a quick look at image number 4 at the top of the page (just scroll over) and you’ll see a reddish, sandstone rock that seems to have some people tucked in an opening.

Okay, now that you’ve seen that truly unusual natural development, wouldn’t you like to know where it is?

That image is the closest of the four to my home in Arizona.

It’s – Papago Park in the Phoenix, Arizona area.  Of the many natural formations in the central Arizona area, Papago Park allows visitors to come and hike up (from the area behind the photo you’re seeing) and look out at the world.  The walk is not too challenging, but since it’s terraced with some built in “stairs,” it would be tough for someone in a wheelchair.  However, most other people would be able to walk up to see the view.

Papago Park also is well-located, as it is near both the Phoenix Zoo and Desert Botanical Garden.  Plan a day seeing all of those sights if you’re planning to come to Arizona.

And, despite the bad press Arizona is getting these days about guns, most of us are not gun-toting, wild west types spoiling for a fight.   You can expect to be treated well here as some of the most luxurious hotels and exotic scenery of the US southwest is right here in the Phoenix area.  And, the majority of people are well- behaved, law-abiding citizens.

Grand Canyon - just a very small part of the vast view

A trip to the Grand Canyon is a “must see” when you travel out West in the USA.  Arizona recognizes it as one of its finest attractions by designating itself the “Grand Canyon State” on license plates.Most people drive or come by bus to see nature’s show.  It is a drive from Flagstaff (80 miles) or Williams (59 miles), but can also be reached by the Grand Canyon Railway from Williams, a fun trip.

Upon arrival during the main summer tourist season, expect to park in the lot at the South Rim and use shuttle buses to get you to the viewing areas.

Mather Point is a focal point for viewing, but anywhere along the South Rim Trail is a great place to settle in for views.  (I found Mather Point to be overwhelming with tourists who were all jockeying for position to get “the” photo shot of all time.)

Grand Canyon view

Calming walking along the paved path the skirts the rim, I found spectacular views, including some views of the Colorado River ‘way down below. Close to dusk, we were edging down the South Rim trailhead, just trying to get photos from different vantage points when we were stopped by a Parks Ranger who told us we could not go any further at that time of day.  They are protective of people, since the path can be treacherous.  People do take mule rides down the trails, but late in the day, they keep people in “civilization.”

Grand Canyon with Colorado River way below

Grand Canyon at dusk

Food and Lodging

There are restaurants at the Park’s South Rim, but they are of the hewn wood and rustic variety.  There are landmarks like the El Tovar Hotel that have been around for over a century (which was refurbished a dozen years ago), as well as Bright Angel Lodge, Kachina and Thunderbird Lodges, Maswik Lodge, and Yavapai Lodge.  All of the previous have some form of dining facility.

If you are the intrepid sort and plan the strenuous hike to the Grand Canyon’s floor and need a rest stop, Phantom Ranch is the respite for those travelers.  (Reserve meals before you attempt the trip.) We did not attempt this long hike, which we understood could only be accessed by mule, hiking or river rafting.

Grand Canyon at nightfall

We recommend that you allow a day to hike around the various vantage points, take zillions of photos, and visit the various historic hotels for rest stops, food and souvenirs.

While in the Area…

We were impressed with the Grand Canyon, but if you are in the Southwest, we also highly recommend a side trip to Bryce Canyon and Zion National Park in Southern Utah.  Canyonlands is also vast and amazing, as well as Arches National Park. (See our other blogs on these national parks.  Just enter the name in the “search” box.)

Our favorite? – I’ve been twice – is Bryce Canyon.

http://www.nps.gov/grca/

In some giant US cities, they build up with multi-storied skyscrapers. But, with the vast spaces available in Arizona, they have built out and even have had height restrictions on how high buildings can be built.

So, welcome to Phoenix.  Spread out and still in the desert.

Saguaro cacti and mountains are a short ride from the hustle and bustle

The convoluted routes

In recent years, the road system has been improved with “loop” routes that circle the built up cities and allow travelers to get places more quickly.   If you want to travel to the more northerly areas of Phoenix, take the 101 loop to Scottsdale, North Phoenix, Glendale and Peoria.  The “101” also connects to the north-south Interstate Route 17, which has recently been widened to four lanes in the northern segment. The 101 also connects to Interstate 10, which wiggles all around and, at times, going west when it is really heading north, etc.

Previously, getting out of town to Sedona and other points north has been a nightmare, but with the widened area, that is improved.  That does not stop (note – STOPPED – totally) the occasional road stoppage as when there were brush fires near the road and traffic was stopped for significant chunks of time.

The completed loop 202 allows traffic to flow more freely in the southeastern part of the “Valley,” connecting travelers to the 101, Route 60 (east/west road) and Interstate 10.

So, what I’m saying is that traffic issues can still be problematic.  Avoid traveling on major interstates, if at all possible, during rush hour.  On some of the arterials, two or more people in a vehicle can take advantage of “HOV” – high occupancy vehicle – lanes and move along faster than ordinary mortals.

Downtown Phoenix

Why travel around in the Phoenix area?

Well, for one thing, there are lots of things to see and do, spread out in many directions.  As a resident of the area, we don’t always go to the tourist spots, but we often go to the different extremes.

East

We have enjoyed the Boyce Thompson Arboretum  – out east – in Superior several times.  Route 60 will get you there for a great view of desert plants, both especially cultivated and native.  It’s worth the drive, both for the scenery and the respite from the hustle and bustle.

http://arboretum.ag.arizona.edu/index.html

Cacti at Boyce Thompson Arboretum - one of many displays

There are indications that copper mining is reviving in the area as well.

North

Taking the loop 101 to Scottsdale or points further north like Cave Creek and Carefree (don’t you just love that name!) will get you some culture, laid back cowboy and arts environments, and open desert.

By the pool at the Carefree Resort

West

Before you hit the open road on the way to Los Angeles on Interstate 10, you’ll be able to see Glendale, noted for antiques and their bead museum, Peoria, Surprise, Goodyear and Buckeye.

http://www.beadmuseumaz.org/

Way out west is the Wigwam Resort, an interesting throwback to a gracious cowboy era. Originally a location for Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company execs to vacation, since the company had bought land to cultivate for cotton, the Litchfield Park area was ‘way ‘way out in the country back almost a century ago.

http://www.wigwamresort.com/about-us.html

South

In the south Valley, although many communities have grown up in the last 10-20 years, there are still some rural areas where they cultivate cotton, raise cattle and dig for copper (part of the 5 “C’s that made Arizona famous – Cattle, Citrus, Climate, Copper, and Cotton).   On an occasional day, you might even be able to see the wild horses for which the Wild Horse Pass area near I10 is named.

Cattle - a major "crop" in Arizona

Why visit Phoenix?

Despite the bad publicity that the misguided “SB1070” law has created for Arizona, Phoenix is still a great place to visit.  If you’re used to the cramped quarters of most large US cities, the Phoenix area can be a revelation.   There are still wide-open spaces, desert landscaping (original, not cultivated), and a sense of peace with fabulous sunsets to enthrall you.

Sunset in Arizona

This time of year, travelers can take advantage of great hotel rates, since the weather typically tops 100 degrees (Fahrenheit) until close to October.  You won’t notice the heat, unless you decide to sit by a pool, but then you can take a dip so it won’t matter. Otherwise, air-conditioning reigns supreme – you might even need a light wrap inside!

On my first trip prior to moving to the area, I came out in the middle of June with temperatures around 115 degrees.  Even with my 3-piece business suit, I fell in love with the climate.  I’ve been healthier in Phoenix because of the infamous dry climate (humidity is typically less than 20%).

Although I’m not a paid tourist bureau rep, I’d suggest you take a trip to Phoenix.  It is a great place to unwind.

Saguaro on a slope

Join us next week as we surprise you with more about Arizona and the Southwest

Hyatt Place

We checked into the Hyatt Place Boise on North Milwaukee Street not too far from the highway, our first experience at a Hyatt Place.  We were impressed!

The friendly staff was smiling and efficient.  If we hadn’t had so many questions as first-timers, we could actually have used the automated check in.  However, our host was eager to show us around in the lobby.  Everything is easy to access.

The décor is sleek and inviting.  We really liked the room, too.  Technology is very much accounted for- you can use the free wireless Internet connections or dock your iPod. The bed is in an alcove-like arrangement so there is a feeling of a suite.  The “living room” has a fabulous couch that wraps around with an ottoman.  In the “office area” a desk with connections faces away from a small fridge with a wet sink and a coffee maker. http://boisetownesquaremall.place.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels/place/index.jsp

Great space!

Boise Farmers Market

If you’ve been reading the blogs, you know that we wouldn’t miss a Farmers’ Market.  Boise’s Farmers Market is certainly worth seeing!  Such fun – and four blocks worth of scrumptious fresh produce, hand made items and entertainment in downtown Boise every Saturday, from 9:30 AM – 1:30 PM.

Boise Farmers Market

A fun way to spend a Saturday

The atmosphere is entertaining and everyone seems to be in a festive mood.

Entertainers at Boise Downtown Farmers Market

Fresh cheese, delicious brittle pine nut candy, and some hand-carved wooden items were some of the great items we purchased.  If we had lived there, we would have chosen fresh eggs, meats, flowers and – well, it would be hard to hold us back!

Boise Farmers Market has almost everything everyone would ever want to eat - cheese, eggs, meats, fresh produce, candy - and crafts

Then, we decided on a fun café/pub-like restaurant, the Brick Oven Bistro, at 801 Main Street.  After review of an enormous menu of soups, salads, main dishes with so many choices I had trouble choosing, I had some terrific food.  The portions were enormous and the staff was competent, efficient and friendly.  I spilled my soup as I sat down and a staffer was so nice about cleaning up my messy spot at the table. Reasonable prices, great food, fun atmosphere – we recommend Brick Oven Bistro! http://www.brickovenbistro.com/

Come back next week when we take a jaunt to a penitentiary where they cultivate flowers!

While we waited for Old Faithful to perform, we wandered over to Old Faithful Inn, an old dowager of a National Park’s hotel.  The fascinating thing about the Inn is that it was built from stones, wood and other materials that were primarily brought from within a 5-mile radius, according to a tour guide we heard in the massive five-story lobby.  The lobby has large, rustic logs that have been burnished by time.  Nearby stairways are mini-sculptural wood pieces that look like antlers.  The lobby’s giant fireplace is also most impressive.

The main part of the hotel, built in 1904, has a dining room, also massive.  There are newer wings as well.  If you decide you’d like to stay in the Inn, plan to book ‘way far ahead!  The rates, unless you are willing to do without an in-room bathroom ($96), range from that low to a $500 price tag for a suite.  There are no modern amenities – no phones, TVs, air conditioning and Internet hook-ups, etc.  You are meant to get your entertainment from nature while at Yellowstone and, if you look around, you won’t be disappointed.

There are two other hotel properties nearby, but since we were afraid we’d miss Old Faithful’s performance, we didn’t stop to see them.

http://www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com/

On to Points North

Heading north from Old Faithful, we passed the Upper Geyser Basin and were briefly sad that we had missed seeing the buffalo we’d seen on the way into the Old Faithful area.  We needn’t have worried about missing the buffalo because after a few minutes we encountered a whole herd of them stopping traffic when we landed in Lower Geyser Basin.

Enormous (about 3,000 lbs.) and shaggy from molting their winter coats, the buffalo (or bison) munched their way around the fields, but some, without any seeming reason, decided to saunter across the road.

STOP!! Traffic stopped in both directions.  It was that or potentially go head to head with the beasts.  They absolutely did not care about the vehicles lining the road and began a road crossing, one by one, as if following some silent cue.  They came very close to our car.  So, we stayed put and watched.  For about ½ hour we watched.  It was quite entertaining.

At one point, we even saw babies – calves – nursing from the momma bison in the middle of the road.  They are big!

We didn’t feel inclined to rush, as we’d come to see wildlife, and this certainly qualified as wildlife.  We’ve since spoken with other people who never saw buffalo, but we saw them in abundance, both on our first day in the Park and the following day.

What we didn’t see were bear.  Everyone warns about bear and how dangerous they are.  We saw none of them.

We did see other creatures, including birds, deer and a bald eagle’s protected nest. You weren’t allowed to stop and we got a picture of the nest, but the picture, from our moving car with one chance to get the shot and an army of cars pushing behind, has only the nest, not the bird’s head peeking above the rim of the nest.)

Mammoth Hot Springs and the Elk

On our second day at Yellowstone, we decided to contend with a half hour stoppage between the locations called Madison and Norris.  Construction on a new bridge is slowing things and they only allow one lane to travel at a time, while the other direction sits and waits.

When we finally reached Mammoth Hot Springs, we stopped to see phenomenal things that the earth is doing.  In essence, the earth is perking, with colorful displays cascading down platform-like areas and pools of colorful residues formed that sweep living things in their wake.

There are boardwalks that take you around to see the pools and the terraces that show the relentless bubbling and flowing that have created an other-worldly environment.

Once we’d seen the Terraces, we headed to the Mammoth Springs Hotel, where we enjoyed a visit with the extremely tame elk (we counted at least 10 drifting around on the grassy areas), totally unconcerned about humans, as they munched on the grass and totally ignored us.

There is a small museum in addition to the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, a very attractive-looking place.  Interestingly, the Hotel’s dining area is separate from the hotel.  We figure that was to prevent possible fires from spreading as easily.

With most of the Park to drive through before dark and two falls to see from various vantage points, we did not stop to explore the hotel.  Room rates range from $87 for a room without bath to suites at $439. Again, forget the technological amenities.

http://www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com/mammoth-hot-springs-hotel-cabins-95.html

(Both of the hotels above do not stay open year round.)

Come back next week for Yellowstone’s Canyon and falls and more…

WPA sidewalk stamp

Near University Boulevard a few blocks from the campus, a sidewalk marking caught our eye.  “USA–WPA-1938” was stamped into the cement sidewalk.  The WPA – the Works Progress Administration – was a program of the 1930s that put people to work during the “Great Depression” (as opposed to our current depression – small “d”).  Many public works projects were accomplished during that time.  The quality of the workmanship is obviously exceptional for it to survive like new for 70-plus years as it has.

"A" mountain - Sentinel Peak -in the distance

From a parking garage in the UA campus, “A” mountain is off in the distance.  “A” Mountain, also called Sentinel Peak, is nearly 3,000 feet high, and was created from volcanic rock.  From its location a few miles west of the city, it offers a sweeping view of the Tucson valley area, but has become somewhat of a hangout.  Suggestion: only go in the daytime.

Also, if you like to see swanky resort hotels and great scenic views, head west, as well, to the JW Marriott Starr Pass Resort.  My first reaction: the architecture of the side facing the valley looked rather like a hospital, albeit a well-heeled hospital.  The scenic vista is spectacular, though, with Tucson stretched off in the distance.

JW Marriott Starr Pass Resort

Hotel lobby entrance

Tucson Valley view from west

Nearby, hillsides of saguaro dot the landscape. Certain areas of Arizona just have proliferations of these amazing, spiny flora.  They can live for hundreds of years, outliving humans.  With their arms stretched skyward, they are an inspiring sight.  When, birds peck out a hole for a nesting area, the holes are evident and, later, when the cactus tries to heal, it creates a “boot”–shaped structure that is much prized for decoration.

Saguaro on West Tucson hillside

Join us next week as we enjoy a Mexican feast.

A few miles and up the hillside – a very steep hillside/mountain – from Clarkdale and Cottonwood, Arizona is the historic town of Jerome, Arizona.  The fact that residents pride themselves on their probable insanity is based on the location of the former mental asylum and the fact that the town is perched precariously on hillsides.  Ironically, you drive through “Deception Gulch” to reach Jerome.

Sign in shop window - the mental state of Jerome

Is this insane?  Well, in any case, it’s fun to explore and find out!

On the day we visited, Jerome was a vision in the mist like the fictional Brigadoon of musical comedy fame.  We landed in the main section of town, elevation 5,246 feet, as the rain came gently down.  From one direction, we could see the red rocks of Sedona in the distance as the weather varied from sunny to rainy to hail with snow threatening, or all of the above at the same time!

Heading first to the Jerome Grand Hotel, a former mental hospital, with its The Asylum, an award-winning restaurant, we began our exploration of the town. Perched way up high with a great view of the valley, the Jerome Grand Hotel is up a one lane road that passes some B & B’s on its way and relies on driver courtesy to prevent accidents.

Jerome Grand Hotel - a former mental institution - thus The Asylum Restaurant

Jerome Grand Hotel lobby

It was mid-morning and no one was dining in The Asylum, but we’ve heard and read repeatedly that the restaurant is terrific, but a bit pricey, and worth every penny.

We looked around and talked with hotel guests who told us how much they loved the hotel and the view.  One guest was in town to hear a group performing in a pub in the town below. www.jeromegrandhotel.com

View from Jerome

Jerome bills itself – “From a roaring copper mining boom town of 15,000 people…To Arizona’s largest ghost town…And now, Arizona’s coolest art colony.”  The remnants of its past are everywhere with some very colorful reminders, like the bordello that is now a very artsy shop.

The buildings are mostly a century or more old with every building precariously perched on the hillsides.  (Yes, it is a trend.)  We really wonder how they have managed to keep from sliding into the valley!  And, of course, many of the houses and locations are reputed to have ghosts.  We didn’t stop to find out!

At the edge of town is the Gold King Mine and Ghost Town, a tourist location that we drove through and left quickly.  To reach this replica of the old town, you pass through a dump of old vehicles and other refuse that my husband said would have fascinated his dad, a fan of old machinery.

What we found of major interest were the many craft shops, especially the Jerome Artists’ Cooperative that seemed to have every imaginable craft represented.  You name it – fabric art, photography, pottery, wood, paintings, glass, jewelry, knitted items, glass, copper… All of the items were of superior craftsmanship and some were particularly clever. www.jeromeartistscoop.com

One of the great shops on Main Street in Jerome - Skyfire

We also spent some time wandering about other shops like Nellie Bly II where they had more kaleidoscopes than I have ever seen in one place, made from varying components like wood, glass and ceramic.  Madame Belgian Jennie Bauters was the original founder of the site, which went through two incarnation as a brothel, but finally became a hotel and then the shops it now houses.

Some of the fabulous work in the Jerome Artists' Coop - Glass by Fred Reinhardt, Wooden works by Blake O'Neil

The artists and craftspeople of Jerome do offer some of the best -crafted items in such a concentrated place I have seen.  We chatted with David Hall, a potter who has been in Jerome since 1972, who has a shop at the very edge of a row of stores.  His work is finely crafted and he also features other artists, as well. www.madeinjerome.com

David Hall, long-time resident Jerome potter

A day in Jerome exploring the shops goes by quickly.  Bring your plastic, because you’ll want to purchase keepsakes and gifts!

Note: parking is in demand and hard to find.  Jerome can be a bit challenging to navigate if you are physically challenged.

Come back later this week for the Jerome restaurant we chose for lunch.

The Copper Queen is a vintage hotel, dating from 1902, and was built to offer accommodations to mine management back in the Bisbee mining heydays.  Bisbee is terraced into the hills, and so is the Copper Queen.  After stepping up the stairs into the hotel, you immediately feel that you’ve entered the past.  The old lobby desk, with large old-fashioned keys leads to their old, plush sofa- decorated parlor off the lobby.  An impressive staircase, curving at the top, leads to a second floor with a comfortable sitting area and an old dining table with flowers everywhere.

Parlor and staircase

We took the elevator, a venerable old, wooden machine, to the third floor where our room was located.  Room 315.  We headed down the hall to the left, passed the Grace Dodge Room (named after the family member of the mining family) and continued down to the last room on the left.  The old-fashioned door opened to our key and we entered, not sure what we would find.  On the inside, there were three locks.

We were a little nervous and my husband wasn’t really excited about staying in a haunted room. With the DVD the front desk had given us of the TV show that supposedly recorded the haunting, we brought in our luggage and looked around.

The Julia Lowell Room

The vivid sateen bedspread in a magenta shade had elaborate gathers and covered the comfortable queen-sized bed.  Over the bed was a framed “License for Prostitution,” signed by Marshal Virgil Earp and a somewhat risqué photo of the lady in question. (We’ve cropped the photo – after all, we’re appealing to a family audience.)

License for prostitution - signed by Marshal Virgil Earp

The bedside lamp had one of the gaudiest fringe lamps we’ve ever seen and the entire look of the room did say “bordello.”  You see, the room was supposedly occupied by the ghost of Julia Lowell, a lady of the night, who had taken her life in the room.  According to the DVD, she liked to whisper in the ear of occupants and move the bedding.

More of the Julia Lowell Room

We watched the DVD of the ghost hunters. Their experience was unconvincing.

Finally, time for bed after dinner and sightseeing, we turned off the light and waited.  I was prepared to have a visit from Julia, but we were both nervous about our potential night visitor.

Tossing and turning, I finally slept.  I awoke several times, but never heard Julia whispering in my ear.  My blankets were not disturbed.  If the room was haunted, Julia chose not to visit us.

As far as accommodations, the hotel is an old-fashioned experience that meets the needs of most travelers.  There is even an outdoor solar-heated pool.  We didn’t try the pool, since the air was rather chilly, even if the pool was heated.

I must admit to being let down by not seeing Julia.  Perhaps my willingness to have her visit scared her away.  There were supposedly other haunted rooms at the hotel, but we didn’t investigate them since they were occupied.

So, although we didn’t have the haunting experience we expected, we will remember our stay at the Copper Queen Hotel.  The experience was welcoming, even if Julia chose not to greet us.  The staff was cheery and professional.

Technology alert:  Although they have wireless capability, we were told that the connection was not guaranteed.  And, it didn’t work.  But, you know, maybe sometimes it is better to enjoy where you are and forget about connecting elsewhere.

http://www.copperqueen.com/

Travel with us on Monday when we visit the Copper Queen Mine. Down below we go!

Bisbee - terraced into the hillside

The first thing noticeable driving in is the array of buildings terraced into the hills.  They are a holdover from the early mining days, with a few newer homes scattered about.

The Copper Queen Hotel sits majestically, centered in the terraced historic part of town.  Some old mining equipment sits in front of the museum, which fronts Main Street.  Bisbee has some narrow, one-way streets that are an adventure to explore, with the vintage architecture adapted as shops, restaurants, and hotels.

Americana on Main Street - notice copper colored hills

Head down Main Street and your authentic experience is less like Disney and more like really seeing the world of the early 1900s.  Travel a bit further and you’ll pass several colorful shops with pottery, crafts, hats, and an artisan chocolate shop.

Chocolate - exceptional chocolate made here

Chocoláte is a small shop with chocolate made on the premises from fair trade cocoa beans.  The flavors, of which they offer samples, are rich, complex and delightful.  Although pricing is not in the Hershey – or even Ghirardelli – price range, they are a special splurge well worth trying.  We purchased bars and truffles, which were packaged attractively. (spiritedchocolate.com)

We poked in and out of several shops with gorgeous pottery, both functional and decorative.  Finally, we decided on a multi-hued, red Native American bowl that we couldn’t resist.  Gorgeous!

Ya’ gotta eat –

If we had been inclined to eat five meals a day, we could have indulged with irresistible aromas wafting from doorways we passed.  Everything from an old-fashioned 1950s diner to grilles and restaurants harkening back to the early 1900s gave us lots of options.

Copper Queen lobby - entrance to a more gracious experience

Angela’s at the Copper Queen Hotel

For dinner, we decided to try the Copper Queen’s new incarnation, Angela’s, now an Italian restaurant after many years of being Winchester’s, with traditional favorites.  Angela’s was a new venture, with signs stilling covering the old Winchester signs.

Copper Queen Hotel & Restaurant - the sign

Adam, general manager of the Copper Queen Hotel, alerted us that the restaurant was having a challenge with their chef taken ill the day before.  The owner gamely had stepped into the kitchen to handle cooking.

We entered the old-fashioned dining room and were treated to attentive service and an unhurried dining experience.  The meal began with warm rolls and Caesar salads with real flavor.  Choosing Italian menu options, Chicken Marsala and Mediterranean Grilled Salmon, we sat back to enjoy our dinner.

Portions were generous, the accompaniments were flavorful, and the wait staff made certain we lacked for nothing.  The only less-than-perfect part of the meal was the watery sauces.  They tasted good, but were not thick as expected.  We were later told that this was the owner’s first effort at making this menu and he was a little shaky on sauce-making.  He did well for a first-time effort.

And, the piece de resistance was the bread pudding.  We shared the most enormous serving of bread pudding!  I had five mouthfuls and could not eat another morsel – rich, very sweet and tender, it was amazing!  My husband finished the rest, as it was very hard to leave any.

Come back later this week for some quirky dining experiences in Bisbee – and the possibility of seeing ghosts!  We’ll also take the mine tour – deep within the old Copper Queen Mine.

As you drive into Bisbee from the north, you enter through a tunnel, as if you are going back in time.  To an extent, you are.  The town is nestled into a hillside and the feel is of the 1950s – or before.Bisbee was an old mining town.  When the mines closed, the town became a refuge for hippies back in the 1960s.  The crafty – as in “artsy-craftsy” friends of the hippies showed up, so Bisbee became a unique craft center and, consequently, a Mecca for tourism.

Unique Bisbee - their own historic manhole cover

Bisbee has settled down a great deal since its heady miner days when there were 50 establishments serving liquor in town.  The population of 20,000 in 1910 is down to around 6,000, with the census showing a somewhat mature age skew.

Bisbee now

The old mine, the architecture, and the hillsides create an almost surreal environment.

One of the most noticeable things about Bisbee – The natives are friendly!  Actually, it seems that most people in Bisbee are transplants.  While there, we met a woman who moved in after the mines closed. She spoke about the town and how tourism is a major center of employment, as well as the county government, which is located in Bisbee.  It is clear that without the tourism, Bisbee would probably be a ghost town. As it is, Bisbee claims to be the home of many ghosts.  (More on that next week.)

For such a small population, we found people drawn to stay. Our waitress at Dot’s Diner (review coming up next week) came to Bisbee for a visit and has stayed for two years.

Louis, a gentleman from New York City, retired to Bisbee for its climate.  He also discovered a welcoming community where everyone was willing to include you and be friendly.  He was just returning from a trip to Germany and seemed right at home in another favorite regular’s hangout, The Bisbee Breakfast Club.

We found Bisbee friendly.  Wandering into the “fiber guild,” housed in the basement of the YWCA, a group of weavers regularly congregate from their membership of 80!  There had to be at least 20 looms in the large room.  Some of the inventive and recycled fabrics used in the weaving include old jeans, sheets, and other worn out materials.  There were also some really gorgeous knitted hats, gloves and other items for sale, but, since we live in Arizona, our need for those are minimal.

We stayed overnight at the Copper Queen Hotel, a stately old reminder of how hotels used to be.  Service was courteous – rather old-fashioned these days, too, in these times of diffident service – and the rooms were definitely evocative of the early 1900s when the hotel was built to serve the upscale mine management.

A day or two in Bisbee to take the underground Copper Queen Mine Tour and shop, shop, shop were fun diversions.  The very unusual thing about Bisbee – I don’t remember a single chain store in the entire town!  (Finding a gas station was a bit of a challenge until a friendly local told us where to find the Circle K – possibly the only chain in town.)

So, if you’re looking for a unique, old-fashioned experience, join us next week while we explore the food, the mines, the shops and the experience of Bisbee, Arizona.