Perkinsville - this is now what's left of it

Mining is what made Clarkdale a destination in its heyday, but now it’s a place that could be a set from The Music Man. You almost expect to see Marian, the librarian, show up and burst into song.

So, hopping aboard the town – we were booked for first class – we settled in, It was a very chilly, rainy day and the open-air cars where you could view the scenery were not very enticing.  Poor Anthony, the engineer in training, had to go out on the open-air car any time someone showed up.  And, he seemed impervious to the rain, but it was COLD!

First class cushy!

The first class accommodations were great – cushy couches and special service with a small buffet.  Drinks cost, but Dorene, the “attendant, bartender, tour guide and chief cook and bottle washer” was friendly, helpful and informative.

Verde Canyon Railroad chugs along

The 18-car train chugged along past the slag heap that was a reminder of Clarkdale’s mining past.  The 40 acres of slag – 50,000,000 tons!!! -was quite a dark monolith.  Anthony said that the slag was being hauled away by truck courtesy of a company that thought it could retrieve enough gold and other minerals to make the effort worth it.

We could see the old cliff dwellings of the Sinagua Indians, who left the area by 1400 AD.  They were indicated by the smoky entrances to their cave dwellings.– obviously, they knew about fire.  What a difficult life. They grew their own crops – corns, beans and squash – and had a life expectancy of 35-40 years.

Sinagua Indians inhabitated cave prior to 1400 AD - see smoky entrance

In the distance, you could see the glimmering red rocks of Sedona.  Also visible were the remains of a massive storm that left water levels higher near the tracks.

Although we didn’t see the 74 varieties of waterfowl, fish and other wildlife – they were probably smart enough to take refuge from the cold rain – we did see cottonwood trees that had mistletoe – you know that plant people stand under and kiss – living symbiotically in the trees.

We chugged along, listening to the rhythm of the train on the tracks and occasionally hustling outside to catch a view.  Our friendly neighbors on the train, Ellie and Gary from Illinois, let us peer over their shoulders and out their windows so we could take photos and see the sights.  The sights mostly seemed to be on their side of the train.  (Looking toward the engine – that would be on the right side.)

We tried some hot chocolates – to warm up, you know – the vanilla in the hot chocolates was vanilla vodka.  At first, they tasted a little bitter to me, but as they went down, they tasted better and better.

We finally saw our eagle! (See lower left)

At one point, Dorene beckoned us to the window where there was an eagle perched in a tree. My husband swore that it looked like the bird was especially posed for us within ten minutes of our return.

We enjoyed our time riding the rails.  I recommend it for adults, but some patient children who enjoy wildlife might also enjoy the experience. The train was a relaxing and scenic interlude.  Next time, I hope the trip I book falls on a day when it doesn’t rain!

Verde Canyon Railroad – www.verdecanyonrr.com

Come back Monday for more on the small town of Clarkdale and its neighbor, Cottonwood, Arizona. Next week, we’ll also visit the Blazin’ M Ranch (www.blazinm.com) and a fun,boisterous cowboy show!

When Gold was discovered in the Klondike in 1896 and a ton of gold arrived in Seattle in 1897, the gold rush was on! Everyone rushed to the goldfields through Chilkoot Pass. It was six hundred miles over treacherous and dangerous trails and waterways. Another trail was developed through White Pass and this became the route of the White Pass and Yukon Railroad.

White Pass and Yukon Railroad on its Climb to the Klondike Photo by George Bradshaw

The White Pass & Yukon route climbs from sea level in Skagway to almost 3,000 feet at the Summit in just about 20 miles and features steep grades of almost 3.9%. The tight curves of the White Pass called for a narrow gauge – a ten foot wide road bed with the rails three feet apart. Construction began in the spring of 1898, reached the Summit in February of 1899, and was completed in 1900. The railroad is 110 miles long, ending in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada. The railroad overcame great odds to be completed and was designated an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark in 1994.

The scenic trip starts in Skagway and follows the route that the miners took to the goldfields of the Klondike, passing Gold Rush Cemetery, resting place for early Skagway residents; the Denver Glacier Trail, a favorite hike that leads to the base of the glacier; Brackett Road, an early toll road leading across White Pass; Bridal Veil Falls, a 6,000-foot waterfall originating from the glaciers; and Glacier Station, once a stop for thirsty steam engines on the uphill grade.

There are two tunnels on the route. The yawning chasm of Glacier Gorge disappears into Tunnel Mountain, 1,000 feet above the floor of the gulch. The second tunnel is 675 feet long and was built in 1969, and a new bridge was constructed to replace the old steel bridge. When constructed in 1901, the old steel bridge was the tallest cantilevered bridge in the world.

When the train leaves the tunnel, you can see remnants of the old Trail of ’98, a primary route from Skagway to the goldfields.

White Pass Summit is 2,865 feet above sea level and is located at the U.S. – Canadian Border. At Bennett, B.C., you leave the train and return to Skagway via a comfortable motor coach, with plenty of stops for photo opportunities.

The WP&YR not only operates for the benefit of the tourists who come to ride the adventurous railroad, but it also serves as a supply route for the remote towns in the Yukon. The railroad pioneered the use of container cars to move goods over the mountains and down to the sea. The White Pass spirit lives on today.

Next week: More on Los Angeles