DAY 15

ST. ANDREWS

FORE!

DUCK!

GET OUT OF THE …. WAY!

OOPS! SORRRRY!

It’s time to hop a golf cart over to the birthplace of golf over 600 years ago, St. Andrews.

Actually, birthplace is not quite accurate. Golf in some form was probably played in another country before it came to Scotland, but hey, Scotland just had a better marketing department!And, it doesn’t hurt when the King starts hitting that little white ball around the links.

And don’t forget to get out of your cart, because at St. Andrews you walk, not ride the 18.
Although the old course at St. Andrews is the most famous, there are actually six other public courses maintained by the St. Andrews Links Trust, including the nine hole Balgove perfect for families, beginners and even children.
www.standrews.org.uk

But wait, that’s not all!

You say you don’t want to put on a nearly year long waiting list to play the old course? You say it’s too intimidating to play where some of the best golfers in the world have played? Never fear! There are over 40 other golf courses just in the Kingdom of Fife area around St. Andrews. They cater to all skills and geographical variances.

There is even a 9 hole, “old school” hickory-only, Kingarrock, course where you’ll be given original hickory clubs, an original canvas and leather bag with a Spoon, Driving Iron, Mashie, Niblick and a Putter.

A Niblick?? A Mashie? You’re serious … right? Sounds like an order of giblets and mashed potatoes.

Settle down, all you golfers around the world, it’s just a joke! I myself am a golfer … with a sense of humor!

www.kingarrock.com

British Golf Museum

Gee, I wonder if there is a Golf Museum in town? And, I wonder if it’s near the Royal & Ancient Club House?

If you like the relatively non-violent sport of golf, and who doesn’t – The British Golf Museum is the consummate look at golf from its inception to current day.

March to October
9.30 – 5.30 Monday – Saturday
10.00 – 5.00 Sunday
November to March
10.00 to 4.00 Monday – Sunday
www.britishgolfmuseum.co.uk/

St. Andrews (Town)

Just like the golf course, this is a walking town. Park you car and hit the pavement, or the beach, or around, or even on the course on Sunday when the old course is closed to golfers.

The following link is a walking/cycling map of the town:

www.st-andrews.ac.uk/media/cyclemap.pdf

As with many cities and towns in Great Britain and Europe, driving around is not your best bet. Not many parking spots and high prices, if you do find one. St. Andrews has a free Park & Ride bus that shuttles you around town from the free car parks on the west side of town. (Key word, FREE)

University of St. Andrews

The oldest university in Scotland, established in 1413, is actually scattered throughout the town. Although many of the buildings are quite old, the education is 1st class and modern.

New dorms, and a new medical science building are currently in development, or under construction.

There are also other museums, castle and cathedral ruins, walks along the beach and just the chance to soak in the small town (17,000 pop., with another 9,000 students) atmosphere.

www.visit-standrews.co.uk

Edinburgh – St. Andrews
Distance: 49.8 miles
Time: 1 hr 27 min

If you drive, take the A90 over the Forth Bridge (toll), and connect to the M90. At junction 7, take the A91 to St Andrews.

By Train
Unfortunately, St Andrews does not have its own train station, but it is possible to get off at Leuchars station and go St Andrews by bus. This should take about 10 minutes.

Rosslyn Chapel

Note: We had planned to drop down south of Edinburgh a few miles to see Rosslyn Chapel. This is where the “ending” of the DaVinci Code was filmed, but it is currently under renovation.

The scaffolding that surrounds the building and the metal roof to help dry out the stonework (should be removed by the end of 2009 or early 2010) doesn’t do anything for the chapel’s historic appeal.

The renovation will continue through July 2010. But if you would decide to go, it’s only seven miles south of Edinburgh and a bus runs from the centre of the city.

www.lothianbuses.com

Note: No photography is allowed within the Chapel (unless you are a movie crew filming a blockbuster film …)

www.rosslynchapel.org.uk

Well, that’s it!

Next stop will be the Edinburgh airport and a shuttle down to Heathrow for a plane back to the United States.

Personally, I could stay another two weeks. Southern Scotland, more of the northern and western islands, and, a few more days in London.

CURRENCY ALERT!! – TRIP ALERT!!! SURLY AIRLINE CREW ALERT!!!!

Right now, the pound is continuing to go higher than the dollar compared to when I first started planning this trip. I have seen it go up steadily, although it is currently holding.

The airlines aren’t making life any easier these days either. And, my air carrier of choice (British Airways) is on the brink of stupidity by asking its employees to work for up to a month without pay. Of course the CEO said that he would work a month without pay … That seems apples to apples fair ….

Or, NOT!

If that were to go into effect that should be a fun ride across the pond …

“Excuse me, may I have …” (Deathly glare from Flight Attendant)

“OKAY! I’ll shut up now! It’s only 8 more hours until we land.”

So, I am weighing the pros and cons. We just might be going somewhere else this fall…

DAY 14

Even though we just got there (Edinburgh), it’s time to get out of town!

What do Mel Gibson, Liam Neeson and Angus Macfadyen have in common? They have all portrayed Scottish heroes at your local Cineplex. Whether or not the movies were entirely accurate (Braveheart & Rob Roy) is beside the point. The characters were real. William Wallace, Rob Roy and Robert the Bruce were, in fact, local heroes, much to the chagrin of the British monarchy at the time.

We are going into what was then their land and stopping by some of the most historical spots in Scotland.

Falkirk

A short 41-minute drive northwest of Edinburgh is Falkirk.

On July 22, 1298, William Wallace was defeated at the Battle of Falkirk by King Edward I due much to disorganization and, in part, treachery mounting behind the scenes. The independence of Scotland was at stake, but this was not the last time we would see Wallace or his friend Robert the Bruce.

In stark contrast to battles for independence of the 13th and 14th centuries is the modern use of ingenuity on the part of some crafty mechanical engineers.

How do you get rid of 11 locks that previously connected two canals … well that’s easy, you build a Ferris wheel!

All you have to do is change the name slightly, and you have the Falkirk Wheel.

Falkirk Wheel

With a difference of about 79 feet between the levels of the two canals, engineers decided to build a boat lifting mechanism that actually does resemble a Ferris wheel on steroids! Huge rotating arms lift gondolas from level one to level two connecting the two canals.

You can book a 1-hour ride on a boat that will take you up to the next canal and back. There are also trails, canal walks, a gift shop, interactive displays and a café in the visitors’ centre to which entry is free.

Boat Trip Prices
Adult £8
Child (3-15 years) £4.25
Child under 3 years FREE
Concession (Seniors) £6.50
Family ticket (2 adults/2 children) £21.50

Parking: £2.00

www.thefalkirkwheel.co.uk/index.html

Bannockburn

It’s about a 20-minute drive north on the A9 to what is probably the most significant battlefield in all of Scottish history.

Robert Bruce’s Scottish army of a mere 5,000 defeated the 20,000 troops of Edward II on June 24, 1314. The English left Scotland, Bruce was left to sit on the throne, and, although 10 years later, the English finally conceded Scottish independence.

Battlefield

Walk the battlefield, see the exhibits and, of course, rummage through the gift shop.

Granted, this type of excursion isn’t for everyone, but if you are interested in history, this certainly is a must see.

Directions: 2 km south of Stirling on A872,

Adults: £5.50
Family: £15
1 Parent: £10
Concession (Seniors): £4.50

http://www.nts.org.uk/Property/95/

Stirling

Castle
If you only see two castles in Scotland, it has to be Edinburgh, and Stirling. Sitting atop a commanding rock makes it visible for miles. This castle reeks of history. Built between the late 1400s and 1500s, there are many buildings and battlements (overlooking two battlefields, Stirling Bridge and Bannockburn) to see while you are there.

**The Palace is currently closed for major renovation to show the King’s and Queen’s Lodgings circa mid-1500s. The current reopening date is March 2011.”

Summer
1 April – 30 September: 9.30 am to 6.00 pm
Winter
1 October – 31 March: 9.30 am to 5.00 pm
Adult: £9.00
Child: £4.50
Concession: £7.00
Car parking: max 4 hours – £2.00.

http://www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/propertyresults/propertyoverview.htm?PropID=PL_275

William Wallace Monument

Talk about a view! This is the place.

It took eight years to build, stands 220 feet above Abbey Craig and is accessed
inside by 246 steps on a spiral staircase – the Wallace Monument is the epitome
of “old school” sightseeing.

 
No elevator, and little in the way of handicap access (Disabled access to the grounds and visitor’s pavilion. Limited disabled access to The Monument), this monument will literally leave you gasping (at the view, and for air).

 
Hop on a free shuttle from the “free” parking lot, or walk up the wooded slopes of Abbey Craig. Just two miles from Stirling is the hill where, in 1297, William
Wallace watched the English army cross Stirling Bridge before leading his army into battle and victory.

There are four levels within the monument, each with something to see. Seventy- one steps lead to level 1 and a history of Wallace’s life. Also, on display is what is “supposedly” Wallace’s 700-year-old sword (obviously not authenticated).
Trek up 64 more steps and you will be at Level Two, the Hall of Heroes.

 
Level Three (62 steps) is the geographic Diorama which shows you the lay of the land surrounding the monument.

 
It’s only 49 more steps to The Crown of the Monument to peruse the landscape you were shown on Level Three.

 
They always say going down a stairway is easier. This narrow spiral staircase to ground level might question that statement. But, if you make it successfully, head to the Gift Shop, or Victorian Tea-Room before heading back down to the car park.
With a few exceptions, The Wallace Monument is open daily, all year somewhere between 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM depending upon the season.

 
Admission Prices – 2009
Adult: £6.50
Child: £4:00
Student: £4.90
Family (2 Adults/2 Children): £17.00

http://www.nationalwallacemonument.com

This will have been a packed day, so we’ll head back to Edinburgh.

TOMORROW: St. Andrews – Can you say … FORE!

DAY 13
EDINBURGH

At this time, we will be nearing the end of our trip. There are still enough things to see that we could probably spend another week in Scotland, but that’s not going to happen. So, we have to make some decisions about what to see and not …

With the variety of sightseeing attractions in the city it really comes down to what your personal preferences are.

Are you … all museums … all the time?

Maybe … a day at the zoo … key word “day”

Or, are you … can’t get enough of those castles …

And of course … sightseeing? I just want to shop!

Whatever you wish to do, Edinburgh has it.

Even though we are coming into the city by car the evening before we are not dumb enough to use it to get around the city. It is well documented that driving in Edinburgh is not only difficult, but extremely frustrating!

It seems the street designers came up with all sorts of magic tricks to confuse and baffle the driving public. And besides all of that, parking is not only difficult to find, it’s expensive. (Think New York City)

*** Although there is no underground/subway, at this time, a Tram (Light Rail) system is “under construction” which will run from the airport through city centre and out to Leith, which is also a cruise ship port. Completion date is set for the end of 2010 with revenue service commencing in 2011. So, to add to the already congested traffic is light rail construction!

When it’s done, it’s great! When it’s not, it’s annoying!

http://www.edinburghtrams.com/

Although a little late to the party, as many cities throughout Europe and the world have been running light rail for years, this will definitely be a helpful feature in moving both residents and travelers through the city.

So, until then it’s buses, or your own two feet for the really budget-minded traveler. Of course, there are taxis if you have a bit more change in your pocket.
There are day tickets for unlimited bus travel for 1 day at a cost of £3.00 adults.
www.lothianbuses.co.uk

(At this time, I am not going to give you the exchange rate in dollars, as it continues to fluctuate upward rather quickly in the last few weeks. Great for the “£ “, not so much for the “$.“

This sort of reminds me of when I lived in Mexico for a short time and the Peso went into wheelbarrow mode against the dollar. Maybe it was that 60% interest they were giving on savings accounts that caused that little hiccup!

Anyway, Toto and I are no longer in Mexico, so let’s get back to Scotland.

TOUR BUS

As with many cities in Great Britain there is a hop-on, hop-off bus that circles Old and New towns. Three tours (Edinburgh, City, and Majestic Tours) tickets are currently £12 for adults; £5 for children and are good for 24 hours. Other tickets include a family pass for two adults and up to three children at £28.

For the month of September, tours run every 20 minutes from 9:25 – 5:45
http://www.edinburghtour.com/

If you need information, there is the Edinburgh Information Centre near Waverley Station (Train terminal). Tickets for just about anything are available, and there are enough free brochures to wallpaper your house.
So, where do you start?
They say it’s impossible to see all of Edinburgh in three days, so what do you do if you only have one?
Well, it’s pretty simple … the Royal Mile and Old Town (which by the way isn’t much older than New Town!)
Old Town: circa 1500’s
New Town: 1766 – developed to relieve congestion in … wait a minute! Let me guess! Hang on! Ah … Maybe …
Old Town?

WHICH WAY TO GO?

Next you have to decide which way to walk … are you an early morning hiker? (early morning stamina)
Or, are you an afternoon hiker? (a lot of energy left, not sitting in front of the TV watching Soap operas)
The reason for the question is simple. As The Royal Mile is actually built on a hill, it can be a Royal Pain on your feet if you are not used to walking uphill.
Reality based: it takes about 20-25 minutes to walk … down hill.
Of course, shops and people will be going by you at a speed rivaling the USS Enterprise (the spaceship, not the aircraft carrier).

So, we’re going to start at the top of the hill and work our way down the mile.

(Actually, for you mathematicians and street engineers in the bunch, the Royal Mile is just a shade longer than a mile). For the rest of us, we don’t care!

Edinburgh Castle

Not to be mistaken with every other castle in Scotland, it takes the name of the city over which it guards. (Don’t worry; there won’t be a quiz about which city…)

Although not the first castle on the hill, this one began sometime in the 12th century. But if you are looking for those original structures (with the exception of still standing, St. Margaret’s Chapel (1130 A.D.)), you might want to find an H.G. Wells time machine to go back over 300 years.

What you see today is basically what was built as a military garrison which still barracks soldiers. So, consequentially, most of the displays are that of military history. But even if you aren’t a military historian, the views are great and there is a lot to see.

Check out the website: There is an interactive 3-D model of the castle which turns to show different angles and brings ups photos and info of selected areas.

Hours: April – Sept 9:30 AM to 6:00 PM
Admission:
Adults: £13
Senior Citizens/Students: £10.50
Children: £6.50 15 & Under

www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk

At the other end of the Royal Mile is the Palace of Holyroodhouse

If you just can’t enough of those Royals’ … well, this is the place.
This is the Queen’s official residence in Scotland.
Formerly the home of Mary Queen of Scots, this is where the other half lives, or actually, vacations briefly during The Queen’s Holyrood Week. This spectacular runs from the end of June until the beginning of July including a traditional garden party with few of her “closest” friends (about 8,000 of them).
There is a lot of antique furniture, and lots of history. There is also the Queen’s Gallery (separate admission) which displays works from the royal collection. So, if you and the queen are on the same page with tastes in art, this is definitely your place.

Hours: Apr-Oct daily 9:30am-6pm
Nov-Mar 9:30am-3:45pm

Admission prices

Palace of Holyroodhouse
(including an audio tour)
Adult: £10.00
Over 60/Student: £9.00
Under 17: £6.00
Under 5: Free
Family: (2 adults, 3 under 17s) £26.50
Joint Admission – Palace of Holyroodhouse and The Queen’s Gallery
Adult: £14.00
Over 60/Student: £12.50
Under 17: £8.00
Under 5: Free
Family: (2 adults, 3 under 17s) £38.50
http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/default.asp?action=article&ID=36

In between the castle and Holyroodhouse are several tourist attractions and lots of restaurants and stores.
Personally I’ve got my eye on the Whiskey Experience adjacent to the Castle. If you haven’t set foot in a single distillery in Scotland, this place just might make up for it. There’s a tour, there are tastings, there’s even a shop with over 300 whiskies for sale, even those miniature bottles you get on the airplane.
http://www.scotchwhiskyexperience.co.uk/index.html

As time permits, you can stop at Gladstone’s Land or St. Giles Cathedral, as well as the much talked-about, and often maligned, Scottish Parliament building. You can be the judge if it really fits in with the rest of the surrounding area.
There are also narrow alleys that take you down the hill on either side of the street.
Stop, as you like, relax at a pub or restaurant, but whatever you do, have a good time.

Next Week: Heading out to Stirling Castle and a famous Scottish Battlefield. And, we’ll look at the real Braveheart, William Wallace, or at least his statue.

As promised from yesterday, we’re continuing our journey down to Edinburgh.

Day 12

Aviemore to Edinburgh

Distance: 126.0 miles
Time: 2 hr 48 min

We are going to make a few stops and hopefully we’ll have time for all of them.

1st Stop

Blair Atholl

The village of Blair Atholl is approximately a 90-minute drive north from Edinburgh or Glasgow just off of the A9, 35 miles north of Perth.

Blair Castle

The seat of the Dukes and Earls of Atholl is touted as Scotland’s most visited historic house and is also the home of the Atholl Highlanders, Europe’s only remaining private army. (I think I’ll see if I can rent them out for a few jobs that I have pending around the house.)The tour takes in some 30 rooms including an ornamental Victorian armoury which includes weapons used at the Battle of Culloden, and the ballroom with 175 pairs of antlers . . . now that’s a lot of venison!

The castle grounds are part of an estate of over 145,000 acres of farmland, forests, housing, industrial development and marked trails.

A 9-acre walled garden, a deer park, peacocks roaming the grounds and those strange, Old English Sheepdog looking, Highland cattle are all part of the castle area. And, the kids can play in the woodland adventure playground.

The on-site restaurant (Tullibardine) serves lunch and afternoon tea, and a gift shop is available.

It is possible to tour only the grounds at a reduced fee.

Hours: Daily 9.30am to 5.30pm
Admission: Castle and Grounds / Grounds Only
Adults: £8.25 ($13.20) / £4.00 ($6.40)
Senior Citizens: £7.20 ($11.52) / £4.00 ($6.40)
Children: £5.10 ($8.16) / £2.00 ($3.20)
Family Ticket: £22.50 ($36.00) / £10.00 ($16.00 )

2nd Stop

Just down the road (A9), a little over 10 miles from Blair Castle, is the small village of Pitlochry with an even smaller claim to fame in the hills above …

Edradour Distillery

Edradour is touted as the smallest whisky distillery in Scotland. It might even be the smallest legal distillery in the world. John Reid and his two assistants hand-craft Edradour without any kind of automation. And the location is right out of Brigadoon … complete with a rolling stream and a wooden bridge just in front of the distillery’s white-washed buildings.

With a minute production of only twelve casks of whisky a week, this could well be the most difficult whisky in the world to find! Added to the after production maturity of at least 10 years to reach its peak, Edradour is a rare find.
Tours are FREE … let me repeat that … FREE! And it’s available almost every day of the year. And, yes, there are samples!
And don’t worry if you can’t find it on a map. I have the best paper map of Scotland available and I could hardly find it! And even their website declared its difficulty.
From Pitlochry, follow the A924 Braemar/Blairgowrie road 2½ miles through the village of Moulin. After climbing the hill and passing over a small bridge you’ll see, on a sharp bend, the signs for Edradour.

http://www.edradour.co.uk/main.html

3rd Stop

Two miles north of the city of Perth on A93 is the entrance to Scone Palace.

Celebrated as the crowning place for Scottish Kings, the history of this estate is renowned throughout Scottish history. Shakespeare even mentions this place in his historically and factually inaccurate play, Macbeth. The real Macbeth was actually crowned here in 1040.

Touring the Palace is at your own leisure with docents available to answer questions in each room.

Gift and food shops along with a Coffee Shop and limited engagement full service restaurants are available.

On the grounds, which are able to be toured at a reduced fee, there are several points of interest:

Moot Hill – Deemed Scotland’s most historic site where Macbeth, Robert the Bruce, and Charles II arrived for their crowning ceremonies on the Stone of Destiny, also known as the Stone of Scone.

Wild Garden – Woodland walk including the first Douglas Fir introduced by David Douglas, a Son of Scone.
.
Pinetums – Redwoods and Fir trees from 1848.

The Murray Star Maze planted with Purple and Copper Beech to resemble a tartan.

And watch out for those crazy peacocks that seem to spring up at every Scottish estate.
The Palace is only open from April until the end of October, while the grounds are open all year, but, only on Fridays after the Palace closes down for the season.

Admission: Palace and Grounds / Grounds Only

Adults: £8.50 ($13.20) / £4.80 ($6.40)
Senior Citizens: £7.30 ($11.52) / £4.20 ($6.40)
Children: £5.30 ($8.16) / £3.20 ($3.20)
Family Ticket: £24.00 ($36.00)

Well, we finally make it back to our last extended stopover, Edinburgh. From here we will also journey out from the city on two of our four days.

Next Week: Day 1 In Edinburgh + Battlefields, Castles and Monuments

A Sale Is A Sale, Unless It Isn’t …

We had a real scare around here last week. We got an e-mail from Qantas Airlines touting incredible fares to Australia from L.A.!!! And guess what? They were during the same time we planned to go to Scotland! There was even a free stopover thrown in.

Of course there was!

As Australia and New Zealand are our number 2/3 destinations after Scotland, we decided to take a look. I even got out the Australia/New Zealand travel brochures I had been storing, some for over five years!(We won’t even get into the wife asking, for over five years, “Why are you keeping that junk? Because now you can finally reply, “Because I knew I would need them!”)

Well, I did need them, briefly.

During this several day bout of insanity, we even drew up an itinerary to see what we could actually accomplish in two weeks. And although we have finally decided to stick with our original Scotland trip …

We learned three things:

Procrastination doesn’t pay in the travel game.

There are about 37 seconds from the time that you receive an e-mail from an airline and when those two special fare seats get scarfed up! This is either by people who have nothing better to do than sit in front of their computer and hit the “receive” e-mail button constantly, or, those with nothing better to do than sit in front of their computer hitting their “receive” e-mail button constantly …

Some of these people are even at work … probably MOST of these people are at work!

And of really great interest to me was, that after a few days, the “free stopover” seemed to disappear from the advertising even though the “sale” was not over.

Airlines don’t play fair

When I first saw the fare to Australia, it was incredibly low – until I saw the catch: it was ONE WAY! Now, let me get this straight … it’s too difficult for airline marketing departments to reach for a calculator then double the fare so we can see the real thing?

Of course not! Did I mention it’s the marketing department? It’s a marketing ploy! “Wow! That’s cheap! Let’s book this!” Then you realize it might not be that cheap after all. But now you’re excited and …

As a former travel agent, I perfectly understand the first two learning experiences, as I learned those years ago.

But the one they don’t teach you at travel agent school … yes, there are actually travel agent schools. The one that’s not in any of the books is …

Decisions based on someone else’s currency are extremely difficult

We then had to comparison shop three different currencies to see who had the best exchange rate.

But wait, that’s not all! How about getting some apples to apples comparisons on good and services? Try finding out where those comparisons might even be.

The price of a restaurant steak in Sydney/Auckland and London
The price of a hotel (within the same chain). (Actually, the latter is more difficult than you might think).
The price of a meatball platter at Ikea …

Yes, we even checked the price of an Ikea meatball platter! But, that wasn’t even easy! Although each country did actually show prices online, not every country had the same amount of meatballs per platter! Do you want 10? Do you want 15?

The US stores have three sizes of platters, Britain has one, and Australia has one … but they are not the same quantities!

So, since we weren’t going to Scotland or, Australia/New Zealand for Ikea meatballs, we decided to finally make a decision with a very scientific method our dads taught us …

A Coin Toss!

So, with heads facing up, I’m back to telling you about our itinerary in …..

SCOTLAND!

BUT, first and foremost …

The Answer to last week’s Trivia Question:

Last week I asked a trivia question about funicular railways.

Yes, it sounds like some exotic disease, but it isn’t! It’s just another name for an incline railway.

Question: Which U.S.-based incline railways claim to be the steepest in the world?

Answer: Johnstown Inclined Plane – Johnstown, PA 71.9%
Lookout Mountain Incline Railway – Chattanooga, TN 72.7%

Who really has the steepest incline railway?

Well, according to the Guinness Book of Records, that distinction actually goes to the Katoomba Scenic Railway in the Blue Mountains of Australia, just outside of Sydney. The railway reaches a whopping 122% before reaching the top of the mountain!

I’m no mechanical engineer, but doesn’t that put you upside down?

(Guess what? I even had the Katoomba Scenic Railway on my Australia itinerary!)

So, we’re leaving Aviemore and heading down to Edinburgh to finish off our trip.

Come back tomorrow and find out how we’ve decided to spend Day 12 of our itinerary…

DAY 11
AVIEMORE

Okay, we’re staying put for the day … sort of …

We’re looking at a train ride, a little clan homecoming, and lots of scenery.

As I mentioned in a previous installment, my reasoning for staying in Aviemore (yes, it’s really on a map) for several days was due to its centralized location in the highlands. It is also the middle of recreation country.

The Cairngorm mountains and Cairngorm National Park host a plethora of sporting activities: fishing, canoeing, mountain biking, rock-climbing, hiking, golf, horse riding … even skiing in the winter (if there is enough snow).

Strathspey Steam Railway

In just over 1.5 hours the historic Strathspey Steam Railway runs from the train station in Aviemore to Broomhill and back. Unfortunately, the train does not run all year and it is necessary to check their calendar for a schedule. During the summer there are 3 departures from Aviemore per day. The cost of tickets varies depending upon your status, but the 3rd class round trip ticket for an adult is £10.50 ($16.80) with children 5-15, half price. There are also deals for families and seniors.

Hey, there’s even a fare for dogs and bicycles … as long as neither sit on a seat, travel in 1st class, or eat the food on the catering car … and my bicycle was looking forward to some of that delicious Haggis!!!

And, for those intrepid enough … it’s not even necessary to ride back on the train. You can hike the Speyside Way trail back to Aviemore.

Strathspey Steam Railway

www.strathspeyrailway.co.uk

Cairngorm Mountain Funicular Train

If you want to ride a shorter, but steeper railway, hop on the Cairngorm mountain funicular railway (incline), the highest in the UK. It takes approximately 8 minutes to reach the top of Britain’s 6th highest mountain.

The train, which looks similar to a light rail car, is wheelchair accessible. From May to October, there are volunteers on hand to talk about the area and which mountain is which from your high level vantage point.

The train runs on a daily schedule every 30 minutes from 10 AM with various ticket prices for both adults (£9.50 ($15.20)), seniors, and families.

And, again for the intrepid: you can buy a Downhill Train Only Ticket … Wait a minute! That supposes that I am going to walk up the hill first, right? Noooo … I don’t think so!

Which leads me to ask … Why can’t I buy an Uphill Train Only Ticket?

http://www.cairngormmountain.co.uk/see-do

Trivia Question: Which two U.S. based incline railways claim to be the steepest in the world?

Answer …. Next time

Rothiemurchus Estate

If you are looking for outdoor activities you might head out to the Rothiemurchus Estate. Many of the activities which I mentioned at the beginning, plus many more, are available on this almost 25,000 acre working estate.

http://www.rothiemurchus.net/

If instead you are looking for a theme park, and who isn’t on a once in a lifetime trip to Scotland … there actually is one near Aviemore.

But, Landmark Forest Theme Park is not your typical amusement park. There are no scare-your-socks-off roller coasters, or big extravaganza musical shows.
There are, however, three water slides, and attractions dealing with rope bridges, skydiving and simulated rock climbing. But wait, that’s not all – there are also trails and educational exhibits. Yes, education! You just might learn something on vacation … now that IS scary!!!

http://www.landmark-centre.co.uk/

For more on Aviemore area attractions you can go to: www.visitaviemore.com

CLANNING AROUND …

Newtonmore

I’m not expecting everyone to stop in Newtonmore for the same reason that I am, mainly because they’re probably not related to the Macpherson Clan … the rest of you can find your own Clan museum … and there are many throughout Scotland.

Just 15 miles south of Aviemore on A9 then onto A86 is the small village of Newtonmore. With a Pipe Band, their own Highland Games, and home to Shinty what more can you ask for?

How about, what the heck is Shinty?

It’s a team sport played with sticks and a ball similar to field hockey … but it isn’t!

For an overly detailed explanation try this link:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shinty

There is even a petrol station, Post Office and two mini-marts.
The Clan Macpherson Museum, is located at the south end of the village and is open from April 1st to October 31st from 10am to 5pm (Monday – Saturday), 12 pm to 5pm (Sunday). There is no admission charge but, of course, donations are always welcome. And don’t stop there, Macpherson related souvenirs are available for sale in the Museum Shop. Fancy that!
The museum has been awarded a 4-star rating by The Scottish Tourist Board.

Also in the area:
The Newtonmore Museum (The Highland Folk Museum)

The museum in Newtonmore is a one mile long, eighty acre (32 Hectare) living history site interpreted through re-located and re-created buildings, working demonstrations and live interpreters. Over 200 years of rural Highland life is displayed from the early 1700s to the mid 1900s. 

2009 marks an entire year of events that have been dubbed, Homecoming Scotland (just a coincidence that I’ve finally been able to make the trip)
During this time the Folk Museum is dropping its admission charge to “£0” a price you can’t beat with a stick!

I know! As I have been reminded many times, Yes, you can beat anything with a stick! 

Can we move on?
And yes, donations are gladly accepted …

http://highlandfolk.com/newtonmore.php

And last, but definitely not least is:
Waltzing Waters

Okay, this is probably the most unusual of all the attractions in Scotland. For 40 minutes, every hour on the hour you are dazzled by a combination of water, light and music. (Think, the Bellagio Fountains in Las Vegas, but it’s indoors and you can sit down and relax).
And no tourist attraction is complete without … a gift shop. 

The attraction is open from February to mid December, 7 days a week for at least seven shows. Adults £4.25 ($6.80), Children £2.50 ($4.00), and Concession (Seniors) £3.75 ($6.00).
There’s even an Internet Coupon on line at the following link:

http://www.waltzingwaters.co.uk/newtonmore/newtonmore-home.html

*** Currency Conversion: As of 6/7/2009, the exchange rate 1GBP=$1.5987US

Next week we’ll be heading down to Edinburgh with a few castle stops along the way.

DAY 10

AVIEMORE

Scotch and CookiesTour!!!

Someone once said you can’t have cookies without having something to wash them down with. I believe they were talking about milk, so they must not have been from Scotland!

Today we are off on a tasting tour of the Highlands. No, we’re not looking for Haggis! We’re not looking for Cullen Skink! We’re looking for cookies … shortbread, to be precise. We’re also looking for something to wash them down with in the tradition of a fine single malt whiskey!

We also need a designated driver!!!

We are going to be able to find both shortbread and whiskey as this is the Speyside region of Scotland. The region is the home of more than half of the distilleries in Scotland. It is also the home of two shortbread manufacturers, one little known on this side of the pond, and the other … well, you can go into almost any grocery store in the U.S. and find their product.

A short trip northeast of Aviemore brings you to Grantown-on-Spey, the gateway to the famous Malt Whiskey Trail.

Aviemore to Grantown-on-Spey
Distance: 14.3 miles
Time: 21 min

Grantown on Spey

http://www.grantownonline.co.uk/visitors/

We are heading northeast on A95 for the small town of Aberlour, the home of Walker’s Shortbread. Since 1898 the company has been baking shortbread and oatcakes.

Their colorful packaging, in both cardboard boxes and metal tins, makes great gifts.

Although not set up for consumer tours, we are hoping to get a “special guest” arrangement to see the manufacturing process.

Walker’s

http://www.walkersshortbread.com/

Also, in Aberlour is the Aberlour Distillery making single malts and offering tours.

http://www.aberlour.com

Grantown-on-Spey to Aberlour
Distance: 21.7 miles
Time: 29 min

Aberlour

http://www.speyside.moray.org/Aberlour/web/page3.html

The Malt Whiskey Trail is actually a small group of distilleries in the Speyside region banded together by a marketing campaign. These are not, by far, the only distilleries in the area that are open to the public.

Within the group, there are actually seven working single malt distilleries including The Glenlivet, and Glenfiddich, one former distillery (now a museum) and one cooperage (barrel maker).

http://www.maltwhiskytrail.com/

Scotch Whiskey Association

http://www.scotch-whisky.org.uk

Although the distance between the distilleries in the region is not that far, you have to realize that time is not on your side. A tour can last anywhere from 45 minutes to three hours, not including the tastings, nosings, and walking the grounds upon which the distilleries actually sit. And, if you stop to look around at their shops and actually buy some product, it can eat into your day quickly.

So, we have to make a decision, and we still have to get to another shortbread manufacturer before 4 P.M.

If we can not get a tour of Walkers in Aberlour, we have decided to visit The Balvenie Distillery in Dufftown for their three hour tour at 10:00 A.M.

That’s right, (you can sing along now) a Threeeee Hourrrr Tour. Fortunately, there is no boat involved, or a Skipper, or a Professor, Mary Ann …

What is involved is one of the longest, if not THE longest distillery tour in Scotland, and it’s not free at £25 ($40) per person.

There are only two tours per day, Monday – Thursday, and only one tour on Friday. You also need to pre-book as they only take a maximum of eight people at a time.

http://www.thebalvenie.com

Aberlour to Dufftown
Distance: 6.2 miles
Time: 11 min

Dufftown

http://www.dufftown.co.uk/index.php

We’ll leave Dufftown for the short trip over to the small town of Huntly on A920.

Although you might not have heard of them, the award winning Dean’s Shortbread is really good! Although their history is a shorter tale than others, in the 34 years they have been in business, they have gone from a fund-raising activity to a global brand.

We are going to visit their bakery that includes a viewing gallery, gift shop and a café/bistro at which we will be lunching. (And of course, filling a 20’ shipping container full of Dean’s products as they are very difficult to get in our area).

Dean’s of Huntly

http://www.deans.co.uk/

Dufftown to Huntly
Distance: 13.8 miles
Time: 27 min

Huntly

http://www.huntly.net/visitors

After our shopping excursion, we’ll take the A96 to Keith and then back on the A95 to Aviemore.

Huntly To Aviemore
Distance: 59.3 miles
Time: 1 hr 22 min

Next week: Exploring the Aviemore area

DAY 9 – Continued

We leave John O’Groats for a short trip to the town of Wick.

John O’Groats to Wick
Distance: 16 miles
Time: 22 min

A harbor town, Wick is also noted in the Guinness Book of World Records as having the Shortest Street In The World! 1 Ebenezer Place is a whopping 6 foot 9 inches. Yeah, that’s pretty short!

 
Wick is also noted for having the most northern malt whiskey distillery in Scotland, Old Pulteney Distillery. Although tours are given, we won’t have the time.

http://www.oldpulteney.com/

 
As we leave town and head south on A99, we will have the distinction of driving on the most dangerous road in Scotland. The 23 minute, 17 mile trip between Wick and the intersection of A9 at Latheron is rated Black for dangerous! (one of only four in Great Britain).

 
We’ve both driven on roads that make a corkscrew look straight, but from the looks of an AA map (the UK version of AAA), this doesn’t seem to be the case with A99.
Sooooo ….. we are definitely going to drive cautiously.

 
After Latheron, we’ll motor down the coast until we reach:

Dunrobin Castle less than a mile north of Golspie is the most northern of the large estate houses in Scotland, dating back to the 1300’s. It is also one of Britain’s oldest continuously inhabited houses.

 
Tours of Dunrobin Castle are self-guided although there are docents in the main rooms to answer questions. Much like Culzean Castle that was in the earlier part of our itinerary, there are extensive gardens and grounds to explore as well as a live Falconry display twice per day.

 
Ticket prices include entry to the falconry display, museum and gardens.

http://www.dunrobincastle.co.uk

 
Down the road a few miles is the Glenmorangie Distillery. Producing award winning single malts since 1843, the facility was closed until recently due to renovation. It is once again open for visitors.

 
http://www.glenmorangie.com/

Tain

If you are interested in architecture, and who isn’t … a short detour off of A9 and into the town of Tain will be of interest. The architectural family of A Maitland & Sons designed much of the downtown area in the late 1800s.

Inverness

45 minutes south of Tain is the large city in the highlands which we have already driven through twice. As we are looking for kilts, we are hoping to stop by one of the oldest kiltmakers in Scotland if we have time:

 
James Pringle Weavers of Inverness – Making Kilts, tartans, etc. since 1780, also offer a weaving exhibition with interactive displays.

From Inverness, we’ll travel directly back to Aviemore for the night.

So, today we have been on the road approximately 316 miles and almost 8 hours … not counting our stops.

Although we definitely won’t have time, there are two additional attractions outside of the city if you are into military exhibits.

Outside of Inverness

Fort George – A huge fort, completed in 1769, is possibly the largest fort in all of Europe. It is open for visitors year round and is approximately 15 miles NE of Inverness.
Adults: 16-59 £6.70 ($10.66)
Children: 5-15 £3.35 ($5.33)
Concession: 60+ £5.20 ($8.27)

http://www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/propertyoverview?PropID=PL_136&PropName=Fort%20George

Culloden Moor Visitors Centre – 6.5 miles east of Inverness is the site of the famous battle of Culloden in April 1746. With the defeat of the Jacobites, this marked the last battle on British soil and the banning of clan tartans until 1782.

There is a newly opened ultramodern visitors centre containing:
- Interactive exhibition
- Battle immersion film on a 360 screen that puts you in the middle of the battle
- Roof top viewing of the battlefield
- Footpaths through the battlefield

http://www.nts.org.uk/culloden/

In the next installment next Monday we’re going on the ultimate search for cookies and whiskey in the Spey Valley…

Scotland: Fall 2009

DAY 8 (cont’d)

We are settling in Aviemore for several nights as a base to explore the Highlands. Okay, you had to ask! Where is Aviemore, and why would anyone want to stay there?

Actually, there are three reasons:1. It’s a great central location in the Highlands to fan out to other areas, north and east.

2. If you like outdoor sports it’s the place to go as it lies within Cairngorms National Park.

3. AND MOST IMPORTANT: It’s just down the road from my ancestor’s museum in Newtonmore.

Although not conceived as an indoor/outdoor sports mecca, the town of Aviemore became one of the first ski resorts in Scotland in 1960 with the opening of a chairlift and what became known as the Aviemore Centre. The aforementioned Centre was home to skating, hockey, a swimming pool, a go-kart track, etc.

Problems arose quickly, though, as any guaranteed snowfall on a yearly basis was less than adequate and the Centre fell into disrepair. Several attempts have been, and are being made, to bring the Centre back as a major sports complex due to the 2012 Olympics in London, and the 2014 Commonwealth Games to be held in Glasgow.

The major hotel center, Macdonald Aviemore Highland Resort (formerly the Hilton), is owned by MacDonald Hotel & Resorts. The complex actually consists of 4 hotels and 18 lodges. The Macdonald Highland Hotel (151 rooms) is a four star rated property while the Four Seasons, Academy Hotel and the Aviemore Inn are rated 3 stars. The 18 lodges sleep up to 6 persons.

Macdonald Hotels, Ltd. Is based in Bathgate, Scotland, with hotels and resorts in both Scotland, England, and Spain. So, it is truly a hometown company.

www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk

The reincarnation of Hilton is the Hilton Coylumbridge located within a 65-acre wooded estate for those who need the comfort of an American-based company.
Several other independently run hotel properties are located in Aviemore including the High Range Lodge, the Cairngorm Hotel, and the Rowan Tree Hotel.

DAY 9

AVIEMORE

Thought it might be nice to see the top of Scotland, so we are going to head up north on A9 to the end of the world!!!! Actually, just to Thurso, Dunnet Head, and John O’Groats.

From: Aviemore
To: Thurso
Distance: 138.6 miles
Time: 3 hr 5 min

Two important notes and one true fact need to be included here. There’s not much to see in Thurso, as per the locals, but it’s just two miles south of Scrabster, the ferry port that will get you to the Orkney Islands. So, most visitors just drive through Thurso.

And, the one true fact about the northern end of Scotland … John O’Groats IS NOT the end of the world! Although it seems to get the majority of press about its location, the actual end of Scotland is on the way there from Thurso on the A836 to Dunnet. A northerly turn at the village will bring you to a single track road that leads to Dunnet Head Lighthouse … THE REAL NORTHERNMOST POINT IN SCOTLAND!

With a lighthouse perching on 300 foot cliffs the view (on a clear day) is supposedly incredible!

Word of warning: B855 is a single track road to get to Dunnet Head, so it’s not the Autobahn.

After leaving Dunnet, it’s a short 11 miles and we wave hearty hi dee ho to John O’Groats as we motor past it and head down south to Wick.

We’ll be back tomorrow with the continuation of the trip down the east coast ….

DAY 8 (cont’d)

We are settling in Aviemore for several nights as a base to explore the Highlands. Okay, you had to ask! Where is Aviemore, and why would anyone want to stay there?

Actually, there are three reasons:1. It’s a great central location in the Highlands to fan out to other areas, north and east.

2. If you like outdoor sports it’s the place to go as it lies within Cairngorms National Park.

3. AND MOST IMPORTANT: It’s just down the road from my ancestor’s museum in Newtonmore.

Although not conceived as an indoor/outdoor sports mecca, the town of Aviemore became one of the first ski resorts in Scotland in 1960 with the opening of a chairlift and what became known as the Aviemore Centre. The aforementioned Centre was home to skating, hockey, a swimming pool, a go-kart track, etc.

Problems arose quickly, though, as any guaranteed snowfall on a yearly basis was less than adequate and the Centre fell into disrepair. Several attempts have been, and are being made, to bring the Centre back as a major sports complex due to the 2012 Olympics in London, and the 2014 Commonwealth Games to be held in Glasgow.

The major hotel center, Macdonald Aviemore Highland Resort (formerly the Hilton), is owned by MacDonald Hotel & Resorts. The complex actually consists of 4 hotels and 18 lodges. The Macdonald Highland Hotel (151 rooms) is a four star rated property while the Four Seasons, Academy Hotel and the Aviemore Inn are rated 3 stars. The 18 lodges sleep up to 6 persons.

Macdonald Hotels, Ltd. Is based in Bathgate, Scotland, with hotels and resorts in both Scotland, England, and Spain. So, it is truly a hometown company.

www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk

The reincarnation of Hilton is the Hilton Coylumbridge located within a 65-acre wooded estate for those who need the comfort of an American-based company.
Several other independently run hotel properties are located in Aviemore including the High Range Lodge, the Cairngorm Hotel, and the Rowan Tree Hotel.

DAY 9

AVIEMORE

Thought it might be nice to see the top of Scotland, so we are going to head up north on A9 to the end of the world!!!! Actually, just to Thurso, Dunnet Head, and John O’Groats.

From: Aviemore
To: Thurso
Distance: 138.6 miles
Time: 3 hr 5 min

Two important notes and one true fact need to be included here. There’s not much to see in Thurso, as per the locals, but it’s just two miles south of Scrabster, the ferry port that will get you to the Orkney Islands. So, most visitors just drive through Thurso.

And, the one true fact about the northern end of Scotland … John O’Groats IS NOT the end of the world! Although it seems to get the majority of press about its location, the actual end of Scotland is on the way there from Thurso on the A836 to Dunnet. A northerly turn at the village will bring you to a single track road that leads to Dunnet Head Lighthouse … THE REAL NORTHERNMOST POINT IN SCOTLAND!

With a lighthouse perching on 300 foot cliffs the view (on a clear day) is supposedly incredible!

Word of warning: B855 is a single track road to get to Dunnet Head, so it’s not the Autobahn.

After leaving Dunnet, it’s a short 11 miles and we wave hearty hi dee ho to John O’Groats as we motor past it and head down south to Wick.

We’ll be back tomorrow with the continuation of the trip down the east coast ….