This time, years later, I took off from southern Maine.  We were assured that we would get to see some whales during feeding time.  The tour guides kept their word.

Out in the ocean

We headed out to an open ocean area where just a little activity was noticeable.  Suddenly, whales started surfacing, along with an entourage of seabirds.  The birds were scavengers – a dead giveaway that they were after the fish that the whales missed.

Whales surface

Talk about feeding frenzy!  Several whales were visible surfacing, diving and resurfacing again.  The birds were everywhere, helping themselves as they snapped up fish.

Feeding frenzy for whales and scavengers

We could see details on the whales’ tails and evidence that these were veterans, elders who had been around a while.The view and activity was so exciting that several people forgot they were out in the sun.  Their souvenir was a massive sunburn!  (Note: Sunblock and hats are a very good idea out on the water.  The reflection can really make you burn!)

Another whale tail

Although it seemed just a few minutes, the feeding subsided and the tour guides announced, much to our disappointment, that we were heading back.

But, to quote a Star Trek character, “Thar be whales!”

Getting ready to leave - a whale tail

We loved our visit with our distant (very distant) cousins, the whales.

Since we think everyone who can go would find this experience amazing, we offer the following companies and locations as places where whale watches are offered.  We do not necessarily endorse these companies, as we have not used all of them.

Some suggestions

You will definitely want to know whether everyone in your party is good at sea.  If not or you are not sure, motion seasickness pills before you leave are a must. (Generic or the brand name Dramamine.)  Why ruin a good experience by not being prepared.

As I mentioned earlier, hats and sunblock are also a great idea.  Plus, lots of camera space  and batteries (for digital cameras) and film for those with SLR or one-use cameras.  Take water and snacks/food.  Typically, the tour boats have you as a captive audience.  The prices on snacks and drinks reflect that.

Whale watching companies

The following article offers some valid suggestions on criteria for finding a tour company for the best whale watching experience.

http://marinelife.about.com/od/whaleanddolphinwatching/tp/FindaWhaleWatch.htm

We definitely agree that you should research and book ahead of time to avoid disappointment.  What species you want to see will definitely change depending on what location you choose.

(Rates shown were the most recent published.)

East Coast US:

Humpback whales are prominent.

The originators on the East Coast:

Massachusetts

Whale Watch Dolphin Fleet of Provincetown (which even has a coupon and offers a naturalist to provide solid information,)

http://www.whalewatch.com/dolphinfleet/

Rates for adults, $39, children 12 and under, $31, under 5 years – free.  This is a 3-4 hour tour.

In Maine:

Bar Harbor Whale Watch Company

http://www.barharborwhales.com/

Rates for adults are $56 for a 3 ½ hour whale watch, $28 for ages 6-14 and $8 for children under 6.

West Coast:

Different species are visible during different months – check out which months are the best for your sightings.  Gray whales are very prominent.

California:

Aquarium of the Pacific

Along with an admission to the aquarium, you can purchase a 2-2 ½ hour tour for $42.95 for adults, $28.95 for children ages 3-11 and $39.95 for seniors 62+.

http://www.aquariumofpacific.org/education/programdetails/gray_whale_watch/

Oregon:

Marine Discovery Tours –

They offer a 2-hour “Marine Discovery Tour” that varies where they go depending on the time of year.  You might be inland if the sea is rough.  They do have naturalists on board.  Fee for Adults – $35, children 4-13 – $17, under 3 – free, seniors – $33.

http://www.marinediscovery.com/SLC.html

Vancouver

Tours in Canada tend to offer longer charter tours, as opposed to mass group tours, thus they are pricier.  The one we located that is three hours is: Springtide Charters.  The price was $95 (Canadian) for adults, $75 (Canadian) for 13-18, children 3-12, $65 (Canadian).

http://www.springtidecharters.com/rates.htmhours

As we said – official disclaimer – we do not endorse any of the above companies.  Please check out all of the details for whatever companies you decide to consider.

We found whale watching an enthralling experience.  Someday, we hope you have the opportunity to see the whales, too!

Next week: We visit Mexico.

If you are interested in Totem Poles (and who isn’t?), you have two distinct possibilities to see them firsthand in Vancouver. B.C.  One option is “free” near the entrance of Stanley Park (see our September 28 blog).  The constant rumbling of tour buses stopping in the parking area is an interesting juxtaposition of ancient cultural and modern forms of pollution … 

I’m sure the original First Nations population of British Columbia would have been appalled, or at least confused by the throngs of tourists snapping photos and taking videos of the assembled collection of Totem Poles in the park.   

The other option for seeing Totem Poles and other collections of First Nations art is not free, but without the tour buses. 

Approximately 20 minutes from downtown Vancouver, and an interesting drive through the suburban area of south Vancouver, is a quieter and reserved observation of the creations of the First Nations peoples.

(First Nations – - – refers to the over 600 aboriginal bands of peoples of Canada.)

A large collection of over 35,000 artifacts are housed at the Museum of Anthropology (MOA) located on the campus of the University of British Columbia.  Today’s building is far more complex than its humble beginnings in 1949 in the basement of the University Library. 

The current museum was designed and built in 1976, holding collections of not only First Nations artifacts, but that of the South Pacific, Asia, Africa, Europe and the Americas. 

Most well-known for its Northwest Coast collections, the MOA exhibits large sculptures in the Great Hall. 

These large wooden sculptures of red cedar are representative of several First Nations communities such as the Haida, Kwakwaka’wakw, and Oweekeno.  

Even a thousand years ago, guys were telling fish stories…

"Really guys! The fish was THAT big!"

A more modern sculpture, the Haida Bear is representative of recent First Nations work.

Haida Bear by Bill Reid

As you enter the galleries just past the guest services desk, you descend The Ramp which also features large sculptures grouped by culture/community area on either side.  The Coast Salish communities near the top of the ramp moving down to more northern groups such as the Haida. 

A large number of the larger sculptures on either side of the ramp were once parts of the cedar plank houses where families lived. Serving as supports for roof beams or as decoration in, or outside the house, the sculptures usually represented ancestors that were historically linked with the inhabitants. 

About 1900, the most vivid of the ceremonial feast dish covers (below) was created in Kingcom Inlet, British Columbia.  It is carved from red cedar.

Ceremonial Feast Cover

This box (below) was created both for storage and as an heirloom in its own right.  The sides were bent from one piece of wood with steam, then colored with mineral-based pigments.  Red came from hematite; black was derived from magnetite.  The pigments were then mixed with a binder of ground and chewed salmon eggs!

One piece of wood was steam bent to form the sides of this heirloom box

Unfortunately, the large open storage area is currently in renovation, scheduled to open in January 2010.  A $55.5 million project dubbed the “Multiversity Galleries” will make nearly 15,000 objects visually accessible to museum goers. 

Along with the permanent exhibits, temporary exhibits are scattered throughout the museum. 

So, although not as complete an immersion into First Nations culture as I would have liked, due to the renovation, I was still impressed.  And if I were a beaver, or a woodchuck … I would have been HIGHLY impressed by all of that wood in the Great Hall!           

HOURS

Summer:

Mid-May through Mid-October

Daily 10 am to 5 pm; open Tuesdays 10 am to 9 pm

Winter:

Mid-October through Mid-May 2010

Mondays: Closed

Tuesdays: 10 am to 9 pm

Wednesday – Sunday: 10 am to 5 pm 

ADMISSION

Adults          $11.00 (CD)

Students & Seniors (65+)  $9.00 (CD)

Family (2 adults & up to 4 children -18)     $30.00 (CD)

Tuesday evenings 5-9 pm     Flat rate    $6 (CD) (groups included)

Children 6 and under    Free

http://www.moa.ubc.ca/

Tomorrow… Come back to learn about a place with 38 flavors of ice cream and a fun time…

The aforementioned $2 bite, in our case a very inventive corndog, was served with a green peppercorn mayo and totally unlike the prototype. It was not greasy or gooey, but flavorful and crunchy on the outside.

To make sure I had my veggies, I ordered a salad. This enormous plate of fresh greens had some components I have never seen, let alone tried, before. Since I ate everything before I could ask, I never did find out what one of the lettuce leaves was. The dressing was a citrus concoction, not too sweet, but delightful.

My Angus rib eye was served with a gorgeous array of thin, tender green beans, yellow beets, baby carrots, poached rhubarb – amazing! – no bitter taste, some exotic mushrooms and caramelized onions covering the steak. Every forkful was a rhapsody of flavor.

A scallop dinner with crispy pork belly was luscious and served with equally fresh and colorful pairings.

To top off the feast, we ended with a dish of three sorbet flavors. Each sorbet was a brilliant color – red-purple for raspberry, yellow with a lemony-sweet taste, and a pink strawberry scoop. Garnished with a gooseberry, the three-sorbet dessert was the finale of a meal I can only describe as superb.

Chef Karen Gin is the maestro of this sophisticated establishment. She employs fresh ingredients, mostly locally sourced, and creates taste- and eye-appealing menus.

Long may Zin prosper! I highly recommend a visit while in Vancouver.

BE AWARE — We charged our bill at Zin to our hotel room since Zin is in the Pacific Palisades Hotel where we were staying. Although we only ate one meal there, meals on two consecutive days were on our hotel bill. We don’t know how the second charge came to be on our bill, but it points out the need to be alert. Check your bill!

Note: The hotel did remove the second erroneous charge when we brought it to their attention.

http://www.zin-restaurant.com/

Tomorrow…Come back to see a beaver’s favorite museum.

The Public Market has several large buildings where the same vendors have been for years.  The variety of products sold range from gorgeous produce to cheese to flowers to pastries to  tea to – well, you name it!

Gorgeous produce arrayed at Granville Island's Public Market

There are also food stands where you can purchase burgers and other food, ready made, even from buffalo. Almost every ethnic food variety is represented.  Bagels, pizza, teriyaki, fish (fresh and cooked) and almost too many choices!Public Market hours are generally 9 AM to 7 PM daily (with occasional deviation for holidays).

www.granvilleisland.com

Tea for Two – or Twenty

One of our best experiences was stopping at Granville Island Tea Co.  At the small stand, they had many (we couldn’t count them all!) tea varieties.  Oolong, darjeeling, organic, blended, decaf, black, white, fruit blends, rooibos, chai – a long list!  

We decided this was the perfect place to buy a birthday gift for a friend.  When we announced we wanted to buy a gift, we were treated like royalty.  We had been treated attentively, but another person was assigned to help us test different varieties until we found the one(s) we wanted.  I sniffed an array and finally narrowed my choices to three.  Because it smelled SO good, I asked to try their iced tea fruit blend, a proprietary mix that turned out to be delicious.  Good choices!  I purchased small canisters for the gifts.  

Also, they have a great approach to serving loose tea.  A small paper cone, to which you add some loose tea, has a hole on both sides of the cone to which you insert a large toothpick-like item, then suspend the cone into your  cup. Voila!  Personal tea serving!

They are doing so well that they will be taking over the larger booth next to theirs within the month.  See www.granvilletea.com  The friendly atmosphere and obvious steady stream of regulars told us a lot about the popularity of the tea and the people who serve it.  Great place – I highly recommend it.  (And they do mail order.) 

Note: Also, I have not been paid to endorse this company!Other Granville Island notables

We wandered about and saw gift shops, art stores, galleries, clothing shops (organic, naturally!), restaurants, postings for theater performances that were taking place in various venues. and whimsical touches.  Glass galore, leather, pottery, jewelry,  and every medium that exists.   Plus there were shops catering to mariners, boaters, etc.

Whimsical sign offers directions

Since we were hungry, we stopped at the Agro Cafe where they take your order at the counter and prepare some very healthful and attractive-looking food.  Prices are reasonable, so that was a plus in a city where, even in Canadian money, you find big numbers for food.  

Travveling across False Creek, the water taxi docks behind the Public Market

The water taxi docks in back of the Public Market, but since it was a rainy day, we didn’t see anyone dock while we watched.  In a patio area behind the Public Market, there are impressive views of False Creek and the “mainland” of Vancouver.

False Creek from Granville Island Public Market dock

From Granville Island’s humble beginnings as an industrial area to its current, thriving “place to be” status, it certainly shows the value of urban renewal.  Plus it’s a fun place!  We’ll have to go back when it isn’t raining – but then we probably wouldn’t land the great parking spot we had.

Come back next week for a visit to an exceptional restaurant

Downtown

In our downtown hotel location on Robson Street, there are shops (like Guess, Banana Republic, Tommy Hilfiger) with upscale names and glamorous window displays. The prices were glamorous, too, except for a modest Chinese Restaurant, Hon’s Wun-Tun House, which whipped out our food very quickly for takeout. The menu was enormous and we had a hard time choosing, but the prices were generally under the $10 (Canadian) price range for each entrée.

In contrast, we spent considerably more – $40-plus with tip – at O’Doul’s (Listel Hotel) for a corned beef hash and Eggs Benedict breakfast.

Sculpture on Robson Street

A sculpture, appearing to be a whimsical orange twisted wire, was in front of O’Doul’s. We saw other interesting art around Vancouver.

A totem-like art piece in downtown Vancouver near Gastown

Robson Street at night

What drove us nuts in downtown was the profusion of one-way streets. Trying to get back to our hotel after a day of sightseeing, we had to go round in circles until we hit the right combination of streets that would let us turn where we needed to be. We tried this three different ways and were beginning to despair that we’d get back. Driving in rush hour downtown Vancouver – not a good choice.

Almost to Gastown, Canada Place is a very photogenic sight with its sails and the attached building that makes it look like a giant ship.  Cruise ships dock here, a hotel is located in the building and commerce uses this as a focal point.

Canada Place - Cruise ship port and hotel with plaza/fountain in foreground

Yaletown

An area that has been renovated from warehouses, Yaletown is s center of cafes and shops with – we’re sure – pricey upstairs condos. (It reminded us very much of the Pearl District we had previously visited in Portland, Oregon.) There are one-way streets in the area, which make it essential to have a map or walk.

Yaletown - Chic street converted from warehouses

Kitsilano

A residential neighborhood, Kitsilano has established, upscale homes. Desirable, we could see that the neighborhood was well-established because of the landscaping. The neighborhood is described as “chic” in a Fodor guide. We whisked through on our way to the University and the Museum of Anthropology (see more on that in our blog tomorrow).  There is also a major park, Kitsilano Beach, with a pool and other recreational opportunities.

About driving in Vancouver

Much as we would have liked to take public transportation, there was no connection in all of the areas we wanted to visit, so we drove. Or I should say, my husband drove. And, he was not a happy camper. He was passed on many streets (while doing the speed limit or above), and found the lack of advanced notice on one-way street closings exasperating. At a merge, he found himself converged upon from both directions. A bit scary – and he’s a pretty formidable driver himself.

Granville Island

We had heard about Granville Island. It was a “must see,” impossible to get a parking spot in, crowded, and fun. Except for the impossibility of getting a parking spot – which was not true in our case – Granville Island was fun.

 
A little challenging to get to because of one-way streets, Granville Island signs finally appeared,  directing us. Our hotel concierge told us that a water taxi would have been the best way to get there because it was reasonable. He said parking would be expensive and impossible. We did find a free parking spot (with a three-hour limit) and had just a little challenge as we drove around until we found the spot right near the public market.

More tomorrow on –  Granville Island and its Public Market.

 
One panhandler startled us, since she appeared so well to do and polished. She approached us, we thought asking for the time, but instead she asked for some money. We saw street musicians, some quite talented, performing for money.

 
The panhandlers were most disconcerting at times, especially one who appeared disabled, who suddenly appeared two blocks from where we had last seen him. We ambled, window-shopping and sightseeing. He was planted in his new location almost too quickly for someone who appeared disabled. I must have a kind face, because most of the people walked right up to me. I carry no cash, so I was not in a position to help them even if I had wanted to.

Some neighborhoods

We made a point of traveling around to see some of the neighborhoods mentioned in the travel guides with evocative names like Gastown, Yaletown, Chinatown, Kitsilano, and Granville Island.

Gastown

Charming shops in Gastown

Named after “Gassy Jack,” this section of town has some specialty shops and restaurants. Cobblestone streets and glass globe lights line the main street. The most distinctive feature of Gastown is the steam clock, which plays music every quarter hour and spouts steam on the hour. Tourists all jockey for a photo op, as did I. Supposedly, the city was looking for a way to cover a vent from the steam system, which heated buildings.

Steam clock at work

Steam Clock in Gastown

The steam clock is unique and so is the crowd that gathers. Everyone seems oblivious to the other tourists waiting to photograph the clock. We waited.

 
Right across the street from the clock on Water Street is the Water Street Café. With white tablecloth service, we had a delightful meal with attentive service. My potato gnocchi with proscuitto, shrimp, and butternut sage sauce was scrumptious and such an abundant portion I was only able to eat half.

Unusual architecture in Gastown

Chinatown

Just a few blocks over from Gastown, we drove briefly through Chinatown. Signage was in Chinese lettering. The banners on the streetlights also reflected an Asian flair.

Chinatown shops

Chinatown with signs and banners

 Come back tomorrow as we visit downtown Vancouver and some other neighborhoods.

 
When the people of Vancouver British Columbia established Stanley Park in 1888, they created more than just a park. They provided a place for their citizens – and visitors – to enjoy the country right in their own city.

Totem Poles in Stanley Park - signify legends

More than just some grassy lawns, Stanley Park has a miniature train ride, a children’s farmyard, several playgrounds, an aquarium (admission fee), totem poles and great trails for riding bikes and walks.

Thunderbird House totem pole - replica from Stanley Park

Tall fir and other old growth trees provide shady areas. Water surrounds most of the park, so ships in the harbor and the Lions Gate Bridge form a scenic photo op.

Canada Place view from Stanley Park (ship dock, convention center)

Lions Gate Bridge

In season, there are theater performances, horse-drawn carriage rides and shuttles to the different attractions.

 
This is a place for families or just people who want to enjoy nature – and it’s just down the street from the busy downtown business district. Just outside the park, shops rent bicycles so people can enjoy the miles of trails.

 
More on the train

 
We trekked down a pathway to where the train was resting between gigs.

Miniature train ride

When we visited, Krista, from the park’s staff, was readying a Halloween display, so the miniature train ride was on hiatus for a few weeks. She shared the following times that the train runs: (weather permitting) weekends in February from 11-4, spring break (11-4), Easter (11-4), summer through “Labour” Day (we were in Canada where they use the letter “u” in spelling), the October Ghost Train (6-10 PM) and their “December Bright Nights” (3-10 PM).

 
Stanley Park is a great place to get back to nature or let your inner child loose. There are  1,000 acres in which to let yourself roam!

 
There is no fee to enter the park, but if you’re parking a car, there are meters from which to extract a receipt that you place in your dashboard for hourly or daily parking. Rates vary depending on the time of year. The meters accept credit cards.

 
http://vancouver.ca/parks/parks/stanley/index.htm

Tomorrow.. Come back for a heightening experience – the Capilano Suspension Bridge.

I was amazed at the size of the big white ship docked at Vancouver, B.C. We had flown in and were ready to board for our 7-day cruise through the famous Alaskan Inside Passage. Traveling with two other couples, we had mini-suites with balconies side by side on the Dolphin Deck, Deck 9.

Cruising from Vancouver Photo by George Bradshaw

To allow for easier visiting, the steward opened up the partitions between the balconies of our cabins. The Sapphire Princess is 946 feet long with a breadth at its widest deck of 136 feet. At full sea speed, it can reach over 22 knots. It can accommodate over 2600 guests with a crew of over 1100.

The cabins were roomy with a queen size bed, TVs, a sofa, a chair, walk-in closet and full bath with tub and shower. The whole ship was beautifully decorated and the cabins were no exception.

The dining rooms, serving world-class cuisine, offered a choice of many entrees, including a menu for vegetarians. The wait staff was excellent.

North to Alaska

We set sail from Vancouver, B.C. and made our way up the inside passage to the southeast region of Alaska. Our cruise lasted seven days and included ports of call in Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway. We also cruised Glacier Bay and College Fiord. At each port of call, there were many shore excursions to choose from or we could wander through the streets and explore on our own.

While at sea there were so many activities provided, it was hard to choose. One of the more popular spots on board was the casino, which was open only when we were at sea. The spa offered relaxing massages after a hard day at play.

Professional entertainment was offered every evening in the theater, the many lounges and clubs on board. A talented group of singers and dancers presented Las Vegas-type shows, and comedians and dance bands featured all types of music. Whatever our preference, it was there.

Our final destination was the port of Whittier, Alaska, where we disembarked to begin land tours or to fly home from Anchorage. We had traveled 1,673 nautical miles since leaving Vancouver.

Even on the days when it was drizzly and the sun didn’t shine all that much, the whole experience was wonderful. I know that this won’t be our last cruise; we are all eager to cruise again.

Tomorrow: Ketchikan connections