I promised to identify the images at the top of our new website.

Image number 1 is:  ta – dah  – drum roll -

Haystack Rock in Cannon Beach, Oregon.

A monolith that juts 235 feet high above the long stretch of beach in Cannon Beach, Oregon, Haystack Rock seems to follow you in any direction wherever you are on the beach.  Birds and other creatures – especially humans – find it almost magnetic, but it is a protected site.  See our longer blog for more information – http://traveltipsandadventures.com/?p=1134

Return next week and we’ll identify our #2 image.

We hope you’ll visit our Hiking for the Couch Potato website – and maybe even consider buying a book!  Especially for those of you who know someone who really needs to get off the couch and get some activity in their life.

Have a great week, everyone!

By contrast, San Felipe has soft, sandy beaches that are a joy to stroll on or as a place to cast out a line for fishing. And, if you need a break from these arduous “efforts,” you can stroll over to the malecon (the boardwalk) if you are downtown or by the shore almost anywhere.  The Sea of Cortez that encircles San Felipe is calm and never seems to create rough waves – there is no undertow or rip tides.

El Dorado Ranch

Frida Kahlo presides over the 16th hole (a par 5 hole)

The largest ex-pat community in San Felipe is the development called El Dorado Ranch.  With a fabulous clubhouse with restaurant (Pavilion Restaurant) adjacent to their own 18-hole golf course, El Dorado Ranch is very attractive as a social center for those on vacation or the transplants who want to retire or visit seasonally.  There is also a casual restaurant, La Palapa, where people can sit by the pool and even enjoy a manicure.  Juanito’s Cantina is also casual, by the beach, in El Dorado Ranch.

Poolside at La Palapa

Rentals are available in El Dorado Ranch for a short or long-term stay – houses, condos, apartments, and hotels are all options.

Mexican law has changed so that it is possible for those who are not Mexican citizens to own property.  El Dorado Ranch has built upon that opportunity, allowing American and Canadian citizens to build reasonably priced homes, with some space and a view of the Sea of Cortez.  The development has every lot situated so that the homes are staggered and, with the slight incline as you travel further from the beach, everyone has a water view.

Everyone has a water view

The only drawback we saw when touring the area was that homes further from the beach would need to have water delivered to a tank at their property.  Homes on the oceanside of the highway were on a piped-in water supply, but they were the pricier lots.

The scenery and space are very enticing, but one of the best parts of the community is the friendliness of everyone we met!

A little knowledge of Spanish can be helpful in San Felipe, but at El Dorado Ranch, you can be easily understood: everyone knows English.

More later this week on a short visit to San Felipe and longer stays.

On our way to San Felipe and a tour of El Dorado Ranch community, a bus tour took us through Yuma, into Mexicali on the Mexican side of the border, and on down Highway 5 for a two-day tour of the picturesque community.

Customs heading south were a breeze – the tour guides told us to expect some Mexican officials to walk through the bus.  They did.  I guess we looked inoffensive,since no one was stopped or questioned more closely.

Then, we started driving.  Along the way in Mexicali and other well-populated parts of the area, we even saw a Costco – and wondered if they sold lots of hot dogs like back in the U.S.

On the road to San Felipe

And, then we drove for what seemed like forever.  For segments, the highway was two-lane and narrow, at that.  The bus driver, experienced on this drive, was not fazed by how narrow the road seemed.

Are we there yet?

Arriving in San Felipe

Finally, after about three hours of driving from Yuma, we found our destination, which was actually on both sides of the highway.  We were to be guests of the El Dorado Ranch community that was hoping we would be interested in spreading the word about their developing retirement community.

Just as in other real estate, location, location, location is the mantra of the day.

And, San Felipe has quite a location!

Located on the Sea of Cortez on the eastern Baja Peninsula, San Felipe is a juxtaposition of the old and modern.  A fishing village is at the center of the old town, with a boardwalk (the “malecon”), shops and even a couple of nightclubs.

Low tide on the beach

The fine, white sandy beaches are mesmerizing.  Anyone who loves the lure of the ocean could probably just walk the beaches or stare at the ocean for hours. The water is calm and, especially during low tide, the water’s edge leaves a long distance to travel to the shore.

Come back Monday as we explore more of San Felipe…

Why is Sue cranky? After all, she has a successful restaurant in its third year and is going national with her clam chowder, Caesar dressing and crab cakes.Well, it all stems from a situation when she owned a previous restaurant on the East Coast. Normally, the restaurant was not open seven days a week. But, to keep a promise to be full service for the July 4th week, she stayed open and found herself running out of food.

To explain to customers why she decided to close, she detailed the situation and signed the note, “Cranky Sue.” The name stuck.

Switching coasts

When she fell in love with Cannon Beach eight years ago, Sue decided her next restaurant would be a “spin-off with ‘attitude.’”

Restaurant with attitude - a fun one!

When they moved to Cannon Beach and opened the restaurant, Cranky Sue’s seemed to be a natural progression. The restaurant caters to an upscale, casual crowd – Cannon Beach fits the client target perfectly – and are playfully enjoying the license their name and image gives them.

Brooklyn and "Cranky Sue"

Having fun

Now, Sue Neuwirth and her daughter, Brooklyn Neuwirth, have fun with the cranky image. Despite the name, service is efficient and cheery. The menu and décor employ a freewheeling approach that will make a customer smile.

Even children are taken into consideration, as there is a child-sized table with coloring books and activities to keep the kids occupied.

One sign on the wall declared, “There will be a $5 charge for whining.”

No whining!

Great food, well-prepared

The food will not make anyone whine. On the contrary, it is original, inventive, and very tasty. We devoured a serving of fries, “Brooke’s Fries,” within a few minutes. They had a “secret ingredient” and were so crunchy and peppery with a touch of parmesan that we were licking the basket. Brooklyn said the recipe came to her while she was pregnant. Pregnant people can be very creative with food.

The menu has attitude – but in a positive way.  Their motto is, “Furiously good food to improve your mood.”  They will “accommodate dietary requests. Most items can be made vegetarian and/or gluten free.”

A crab cake was crunchy with sweet pieces of crab. Unlike many places, Cranky Sue’s crab cake is not laden with mayo and every morsel was flavorful, but not greasy.

We had a great meal and fun time at Cranky Sue’s. Don’t expect fast food, but do expect a great experience and terrific taste appeal at Cranky Sue’s.

She says her name gives her a license to be rude, but any rudeness is only playful fun. The only rudeness could possibly be on the part of patrons as they are tempted to lick their plates – it’s that good!

Thanks to Sue Neuwirth for the recipe and her tongue-in-check approach to her restaurant and food! Enjoy!

RECIPE

Basil Pesto Mayo

¼ lb. fresh basil
¼ cup olive oil
6 cloves garlic
1 tsp salt
¼ cup parmesan cheese
1 tsp. black pepper
1 quart mayonnaise

In a food processor, combine the first 6 ingredients until they are evenly pulverized. Put the mayonnaise in a bowl and add the ingredients from the food processor. Using a whipping motion, mix the ingredients into the mayo until the mixture is smooth. Refrigerate until used.  Great with fish and almost anything.

They are closed only on Wednesday – her “decrankifying” day.

Sue can be reached at crankysues@hotmail.com  - Tell her you saw Cranky Sue’s on our blog! Have an uncranky day!

http://www.cannon-beach.net/crankysues/

Next week…We spend the week in Vancouver, BC.  Get your passports ready (except for our Canadian friends, of course.)

Inspiring scenery - the Pacific Coast with Haystack Rock is in the distance

 About the name – taken from a Native American word meaning “whale,” whales can be seen some times of the year from this vantage point. We didn’t see any, but we were there during September when they don’t hang out on this part of the coast.

Getting there

Getting to the park from Cannon Beach would seem easy from a map. The road begins at the northern “suburbs” of Cannon Beach, winding past some homes tucked into the hillside before it becomes the actual park. What a road, though! The road is extremely narrow and, while paved, it is tough to see around hairpin turns as drivers come flying at you from above.

 
When you finally get to the entrance gate, they will want $3 for a day use fee.
The walkways lead to picturesque viewing locations where the scenes can be quite breathtaking.

Sea Lion Rocks from Ecola State Park

There was another road leading to another viewpoint in the park, but we decided not to go further on the roads. There are hiking trails, but with it starting to rain, we took photos of Cannon Beach, Haystack Rock and the shore and took cover.

Tillamook Lighthouse

Tillamook Lighthouse and miles and miles of the sandy beach are there to see. Inspiringly tall pines are there in the distance for your hiking adventures.  Film crews have used several locations around the park for movies.  Do you recognize the place where they filmed Goonies?

You can just imagine the Natives and explorers haggling over the whale blubber and oil on the coastal beach below. 

If you don’t hike, it’s still worth a look for photos and a chance to get away from the developed resorts, breathe the salt air and relax. Just take that road in carefully!

During the busy summer months, parking is at a premium, so there is a shuttle from Cannon Beach public parking that you can take to Ecola.

http://www.oregonstateparks.org/park_188.php

Tomorrow – Come back for a recipe from a really cranky person – and a great restaurant!

Lewis and Clark statue at "Prom" turnaround

The earliest resort of the Lewis and Clark Expedition (if wintering while they collected salt and provisions for their return east could be called a resort), Seaside is a fun, family beach town.

 
Characterized by its “Prom” – The Promenade – which is a long concrete walkway along the beach, families and conventioneers gather at this mecca for fun. While we were visiting, a convention of car enthusiasts (two hot rod events were in town) were gathered and their vehicles could be seen everywhere.

Seaside ocean view from the Promenade

 The beachfront hotels have the best views of the ocean, but anyone can walk up and down on the Prom or on the beach itself. The long, sandy beach stretches for miles, punctuated by swing sets where families or couples congregate.

Seaside Carousel Mall

 Set a block or two from the beach are the man-made amusements including numerous restaurants and places to play. A really gorgeous carousel is inside of the Seaside Carousel Mall, plus many shops. “Funland” has games and food.

Funland

There is also an aquarium, which we didn’t have the chance to visit. There are bumper cars and places to hang out when there is a rainy day – and in the fall that can happen.

Gorgeous carousel!

Tourist shops, restaurants, and antique shops are everywhere.

Streets can be crowded, but everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves in Seaside.

During most of our stay the sky was gray and it was windy, so a lot of the tourists were sightseeing near the shops and lingering in the restaurants.

Norma’s Diner

Local restaurants, like Norma’s Ocean Diner, are proud to display where their seafood was caught. Local is very “in,” so being able to say that their seafood was caught nearby is a great thing for the customer and the restaurant’s reputation. Norma’s had Dungeness crab, salmon and petrale sole from local waters; steamer clams and oysters from nearby Willapa Bay and, the furthest source, was Alaska for their halibut. Norma’s was more upscale than the usual diner with copper-topped tables and pictures of lighthouses. The food was properly cooked and wait staff were very accommodating.

Best Western Ocean View Resort

We had a great, fifth floor room at the Best Western Ocean View Resort complete with fridge, microwave and hot tub. Our balcony gave us a great view of the ocean and Tillamook Head. All of the amenities were there except internet availability in the room. For us bloggers that was a bit of a hardship, so check whether they’ve finished their internet refitting if that is essential to you before you stay.

The ocean is a big lure, even on a windy day, for someone who lives inland. It was hard to move on.

http://www.seasideor.com/

Tomorrow: We visit Ecola State Park and some exceptional views

An upscale beach community, Cannon Beach was the second resort town on Oregon’s coast. (Seaside was the first.) Art galleries, boutique shops, unique toy stores, candy makers and specialty restaurants abound.

Shops on Hemlock Street

The long, sandy beach with Haystack Rock as its centerpiece gives Cannon Beach a focal point. On a recent off-season Sunday, Cannon Beach’s main street – Hemlock – was busy with tourists. Mid-week, the throngs had disappeared and the sidewalks were not overflowing with people.

Celebrating an artisan's work

During the season, the restaurants and hotels are crowded with tourists. Prices tend to be high, but hey, this is a resort town!

Artistically carved gate and fence on Cannon Beach street

There is an artistic sensibility that pervades with fine craftsmanship and memorable wood, stone, glass and other art prominently noticeable almost everywhere.

At the Blue Heron - Another example of artistic work - Photo courtesy of Roger Gillespie

We tried out some moderately-priced restaurants that were one-of-a-kind. Both provided good food and good service. (On Friday, we’ll highlight one of them.)

Strolling the beach

Cannon Beach is a great place to stroll, either along the beach or among the many shops tucked in over several major streets and alleyways. Be assured that you will find the items you see tempting – to your eyes and your pocketbook.

Cannon Beach – We’ve been there twice and next time we plan to stay in one of the most luxurious hotels – one with cozy fireplaces and a view of Haystack Rock. (The first time we just stopped for a few hours; this time we found a luxurious accommodation – 11 miles up the road in Seaside – that fit our budget.) – We figure the third time’s the charm. And Cannon Beach is, indeed, very charming.

http://www.cannonbeach.org/

Jutting out of the Pacific Ocean on the beach at Cannon Beach, Oregon is the monolith called Haystack Rock. Like a magnet, it attracts birds, humans and the sea creatures that use it for shelter.

Haystack Rock and humans

Since Haystack Rock is protected, people are not supposed to climb on it. However, creatures – both human and animal – find it very hard to stay away. On a several-mile stretch of beach at any given time, most of those on the beach are near or heading toward Haystack Rock.

Haystack Rock in the mist

One of the ten largest monoliths in the world, Haystack Rock forms the beach centerpiece for Cannon Beach. At 235 feet tall, human beings become dwarfed easily by Haystack Rock’s immense, but graceful, massiveness. Formed from volcanic activity millions of years ago, the monolith was created from lava flows, which resulted in its basalt composition.

In a location where summer cottages are built in tiers to overlook the ocean, a view of Haystack Rock is even more prestigious – and costly.

Haystack Rock at high tide with neighboring beach homes

The coastline of Oregon is extremely photogenic, but Haystack Rock is one of the most photographed.

Tomorrow…Enjoy Cannon Beach

Heceta Head Lighthouse - one of the most photographed locations in the world

We joined a tour, conducted by a knowledgeable volunteer, which took us into the lighthouse. The tours are free, but gratuities are gladly accepted. With only four people permitted per tour, it can take a few minutes to see the old building. Lucky for us, we didn’t need to wait more than two minutes for our tour.

How Heceta Head was built

Rod, our tour guide, knew every detail of the lighthouse’s history. In 1890, the US government determined that the picturesque vantage point was a great location for a lighthouse. Towering a total of 206 feet (but 50 feet tall) above the sea, the lighthouse took two years to build.

Rod, volunteer guide, inside the lighthouse

Recounting how the 40,000 bricks needed for the lighthouse’s construction were transported without roads, Rod helped us envision hauling the bricks at low tide, the only time that was feasible. On a horse trail along the shore for up to nine hours a day from Florence (the nearest town), the workhorses laboriously dragged bricks and supplies.

Living at the lighthouse

The three lighthouse keepers and their families were totally isolated. Kerosene, the fuel for both the lighthouse and the keepers’ needs, was hauled in, along with their other provisions. The lighthouse keepers and their families grew some crops and raised cows to augment their food supply.

Every four hours, the clock mechanism that kept the light circulating had to be rewound. On a very demanding rotating schedule, the three lighthouse keepers made sure that the lights never went out. Starting at one-half hour before sunset and continuing until one-half hour after sunrise, the keepers devotedly kept the light burning. Six gallons of kerosene were consumed each night for the task. Every 10 seconds, the light flashed over the 21-mile arc to warn of the shallows.
Not until 1934 did the lighthouse become electrified.

Patterns, equipment differ

Every lighthouse uses a different pattern with the light they produce. Heceta Head Lighthouse uses a pattern of light that rotates every 80 seconds. With the different patterns of light, each mariner could navigate by knowing the light – its timing and the light color pattern – of the lighthouses.

Heceta Head Lighthouse’s lenses were produced by Chance Brothers, a British firm that made only three sets for US lighthouses. With a distinctive golden color, the two-inch thick prisms – all 392 of them – are a “first-order” lens, the biggest used for the purpose. Each prism is two-inch thick glass, six feet across.

Lights and prisms

The original kerosene flame gave out 80,000 candlepower, but the new electric bulb provides 1,000 watts of light. It’s bright!

The building itself did not use steel as a frame, so the construction is slowly eroding. As a protection, the previous 10-people tours are now permanently smaller. The spiral staircase leading to the top shakes a bit when just four people are on it.

As of 1963, the lighthouse was automated. The isolated life of the lighthouse keepers and their families was no longer necessary. A spare bulb automatically comes on when a bulb fails.

A view from Heceta Head Lighthouse

If you go…

Even without taking a tour, the views from Heceta Head along the Oregon coast are worth it!

Tours are given March through October.

Officially called – “HECETA HEAD LIGHTHOUSE STATE SCENIC VIEWPOINT,” the park has some picnic tables and is very scenic.

There is a bed and breakfast in the building formerly occupied by the assistant lighthouse keepers.

Note: There is a $3 charge to park in the parking lot. The path to the lighthouse is at least ½ mile long and not handicapped accessible. Parts of the walk can be strenuous.

For more information, see http://www.oregonstateparks.org/park_124.php

Tomorrow… Join us on some very challenging roads!

Sea Lion Caves

Although we couldn’t wait to visit the sea lions, no one told them.  They had decided to spend the day sunning themselves on a rock further up the coast.  Fortunately, we later stopped at a pull-out on the coastal highway and saw them.

As Steve at the Sea Lion Caves told us, the Stellar sea lions (their species, not their performance) are free creatures that can go where they want, when they want.  And, they certainly do.

For many years, however, the sea lions have used the protected caves as a shelter.  When the caves were first discovered in 1880, the sea lions were already in residence.  They leave to seek food, procreate (often on the rock ledges in the vicinity), and explore.

Sea Lions

Massive creatures, Stellar sea lions, can weigh up to 2,400 pounds (the males), to 700 pounds (the females), and pups at birth (40-50 pounds).  They, unlike the even larger seals, with which they are often confused, are not monogamous exclusively.  According to exhibits down below in the 208 foot deep cave, the males can have 20-30 cows in their group.

Unlike seals, which wean their young within a few weeks, female sea lions may nurse their young for up to three years!  Talk about being nurturing!

More About Sea Lions

Years ago, the unenlightened in Oregon considered the sea lions a nuisance because they depleted the salmon stock which fisherman were after.  They were hunted and destroyed. Now, the sea lions are seen as a treasure and it is illegal to hurt them.

The sea lions typically live about 20-24 years, so the ancestors that were seen when the cave was first discovered have been prolific and survived despite the previous threat from mankind.

The males, the bulls, have been seen as far away as Alaska – 4,000 miles away! It is amazing to see them use their front flippers to climb the rocks and waddle about.  With coloring ranging from golden to brown to dark gray, they almost looked like giant slugs from the distance at which we finally saw them.

They sounded like barking dogs and were quite noisy!  They certainly moved quickly when the waves washed over them.  But, their weight kept them from being moved too far.

Sea Lions working their way up the rocks

More About the Sea Lion Caves

Only in recent years have the caves been accessible to crowds of tourists.  The Sea Lion Caves were difficult to reach at their level 208 feet below ground.  So, in 1961, massive excavations were completed and an elevator installed  down to the 215 foot vertical and 70 foot drift location, so people have the opportunity to see these amazing creatures.

Also living near the Sea Lion Caves are black birds, Brandt’s cormorants, and sea gulls.

To learn more about the Sea Lion Caves, visit http://www.sealioncaves.com/home.  There is a fee to descend to the caves.   The caves are privately owned.  The caves are not handicapped accessible since some stairs must be negotiated to reach the elevator.

Tomorrow…Come back to see one of the most photographed lighthouses in the world.