Romancing Catalina – Island Travel
Posted in Romantic Locations | By Shelley Gillespie | Tags: Add new tag, Botanical Garden, Chicago Cubs, Fish, Golf, Hotels, Islands, Romantic Travel, Tours, US Domestic Travel, Water sports
On a misty morning, I waited eagerly for Catalina Island to become visible in the distance. The Catalina Express shuttle from San Pedro was fairly full, with tourists, the high school lacrosse team and other locals keeping busy during the one-and-one-quarter hour trip.
As the picturesque harbor came to view, I saw houses terraced into the hillsides and boats anchored in a quiet mooring. The vista was quaint and charming. An unusual round building, the Casino, also dominated the coast.
A 1950s song by the Four Preps called Catalina “the island of romance.” I wanted to see for myself. (If you’re seeing an unusual looking building with boats in the harbor at the top of this blog, you’re seeing something of Catalina.)
Getting started
What Catalina Island does best is to provide a peaceful interlude from the hustle of the U.S. mainland. Kayaking, snorkeling, casino tours, a one-movie nightly showing at the casino, shopping, inland tours, semi-submersible water rides, parasailing, horseback riding, golf, botanical garden, friendly islanders and great seafood provide varied possibilities for all tourists.
The City of Avalon, one square mile surrounding the harbor, serves as the base for most activities. In some ways reminiscent of a New England fishing village, Avalon has kept the charm and colorful look while adding numerous tourist amenities. Cars are forbidden and golf carts, trolleys and feet are the modes of transportation. From a year-round population of 4,000, the island’s population can swell to as much as 15,000 during high tourist season.
Two major tour companies, Discovery and Adventure, have prominent offices so anyone can easily book excursions. From less than one hour to an entire day, there are adventures for all.
The Wrigley family, of chewing gum fame, has had ownership of the island for nearly a century. They are the driving force behind the Casino and much of the major development. Entertaining tours of the Casino, which is not a place for gaming, are offered daily of the “art deco treasure,” with Chuck Liddell guiding and answering questions. The Casino’s acoustically-perfect movie theater was the inspiration for Radio City Music Hall in New York City and crowds of youth came from the mainland for dances that lasted until the wee hours. Surprisingly, the large, round structure has the domed movie theater in the lower portion of the building with the ballroom above with balconies. Ahead of its time, since no elevators service the building, ramps lead to the upper floor so handicapped access has been assured from the building’s beginning. The support is part of the outer walls so no unsightly columns interrupt views. On the Casino’s ground floor, there is a small museum with a collection about the Island’s earlier days, including Chicago Cubs memorabilia from their spring training on Catalina from 1921-1951.
Places to stay
Charming small hotels offer comfortable respites from the day’s adventures. Hotel Vista Del Mar is a boutique hotel with only 17 rooms. Two oceanfront rooms overlook the harbor, with private patios and luxurious accommodations, complete with double Jacuzzi tubs, fireplaces and understated, modern décor. Other rooms are equally lovely but minus the Jacuzzi and ocean views. A complimentary bottle of wine was offered, freshly-baked cookies were available nightly and a continental breakfast with juice was in the lobby each morning. The staff was professional and genuinely concerned for each guest’s needs. The only drawback is that there is no elevator to help a guest get up the 29 steps to the entrance. Otherwise, I have no complaints or criticisms of this hotel – a rarity in this age of poor service and corner-cutting in facilities. (www.hotel-vistadelmar.com)
For literary-minded visitors who really want to get away, the Zane Grey Pueblo Hotel, high up on the hillside, has breathtaking views. The 16 rooms do not have telephones, clocks or televisions, so true serenity reigns. A courtesy taxi from the dock and available several times a day makes it possible for those who are not mountain goats to get down to the harbor and shopping area. (www.zanegreypueblohotel.com)
Other hotels are scattered about the harbor and hillside with equally wonderful views. The streets off the harbor are filled with vacation rentals waiting for visitors.
Things to do
Tour companies provide sightseeing and active adventures for every taste. A two-hour inland bus tour in a cab-over vehicle brought 52 of us on a picturesque ride up winding roads to the “Airport in the Sky.” While negotiating the “S” curves, our tour guide Freddie provided a running monologue of snappy patter, historical information and groan-worthy puns. We were able to see a bison up close and take photos. In 1924, one of the many film crews making movies on the island imported 14 buffalo. When it was time to leave, they couldn’t round them up, so the shaggy creatures became permanent residents, with the herd expanding exponentially. Perhaps in a nod to their co-habitants, many restaurants have buffalo burgers on their menus.
Semi-submersible and glass bottom boat tours are available to an area just beyond the harbor. As the “subs” travel in waters with depths up to 77 feet, tourists sit below decks while the crew feeds the fish. Colorful Garibaldi, looking like giant goldfish; Opal Eyes; Blacksmith, Calico and other fish are clearly visible through the windows and can be seen converging in a true feeding frenzy. The giant bladder kelp, sea palm and other sea plants make it an eerie, fascinating underwater view.
For more intrepid types, Descanso Beach Club and other providers have private and group kayak tours and rentals as well as snorkeling available. Tours from two hours to all day allow visitors to travel beyond Avalon harbor. Fishing boat trips are also available.
Catalina Island Golf Course, the “oldest Golf Course west of the Rockies,” is 9-holes and was the site of one of Tiger Woods’ earliest successes, when at age five, he played in a junior tournament.
Shopping includes the usual tee-shirts, postcards and such, but some shops in the Crescent Street area offer glass, clothing, tiles and other medium. Hours change depending on time of year and whether the cruise ships are in. Note that prices for sundries and other items reflect the fact that everything must be shipped in to Catalina. For example, a tube of “Chapstick” was $2.29.
Food, glorious food
Since Catalina is surrounded by ocean, it is natural that seafood is plentiful and excellent. A great seafood restaurant is Armstrong’s, which overlooks the harbor. British ladies were overheard praising Armstrong’s as having the best fish and chips they had ever had. High praise indeed! An appetizer of crab cakes was not the usual breading-stuffed globs with just a bit of crabmeat. Instead, they were thin pancakes of just crabmeat, nothing else, succulent and fresh. Other seafood for our party was well-prepared and tasty. When it was time for dessert, we had no room. Service was friendly, helpful and efficient. Seagulls, swooping down near tables, added to the laid back atmosphere.
For a retro, ‘50s diner-style meal, try “Eat at Joe’s “ on Crescent Avenue, facing the harbor. Service was welcoming, the menu had sandwiches and comfort foods, and the tab didn’t break the bank. The checkered linoleum, red booths and beer on tap are reminiscent of a much simpler time.
Other restaurants are scattered about the harbor, the green pleasure pier (which juts into the harbor), and on side streets. Most are casual dress.
After three glorious days on Catalina, I looked longingly at the harbor as I boarded the shuttle to return. I really didn’t want to leave.
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Tags: Add new tag, Botanical Garden, Chicago Cubs, Fish, Golf, Hotels, Islands, Romantic Travel, Tours, US Domestic Travel, Water sports